lets see 4 link

[68steppsidee]

i about closer to getting mine bagged wanted to see your alls four link setups and which is best for these trucks

[mwilliams5891]

sub.....I'm a little excited because im doing all the suspension in about a year

[68steppsidee]

come on people!!!

[JNJchev77]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

come on people!!!

You can search this site, as many have posted these before! That my be your best bet. Then if you don't find what your looking for, maybe someone can help. Besides, we still don't know what your needs are? What you want the truck to do...? lol or your price range

[Zoomin]

Define "best".

What do you want it to do? Handle or drop? Cheap or well built?

[68steppsidee]

best in my price range and needs

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Define "best".

What do you want it to do? Handle or drop? Cheap or well built?

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

best in my price range and needs

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

come on people!!!

Uhmm.... Where did you mention what you're budget & needs were?

[Shane]

[texastrendz]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=329893


here ya go, the best of the best.

[68steppsidee]

thanks

[68steppsidee]

yeah i figured you guys wouldn't be so rude and demanding all i was looking for was pics

[texastrendz]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

yeah i figured you guys wouldn't be so rude and demanding all i was looking for was pics

Well? Thought I was helping.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

yeah i figured you guys wouldn't be so rude and demanding all i was looking for was pics

Seriously?

Originally Posted by JNJchev77

You can search this site, as many have posted these before! That my be your best bet. Then if you don't find what your looking for, maybe someone can help. Besides, we still don't know what your needs are? What you want the truck to do...? lol or your price range

Originally Posted by Scoti

Where did you mention what you're budget & needs were?

Originally Posted by texastrendz

the best of the best.

Rude & demanding? I see multiple guys trying to get more specifics to better help another guy.

[68steppsidee]

you did no one else will though

[68steppsidee]

price isn't much im 18 becoming an electricain just out of high school ive got long tube headers for now so laying frame isnt gonna happen in front at all yet so just as low in the back before i hit headers up front....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

price isn't much im 18 becoming an electricain just out of high school ive got long tube headers for now so laying frame isnt gonna happen in front at all yet so just as low in the back before i hit headers up front....

With this info, better recomendations can be made.

You're a young gun just getting started (in adult life) which typically means 'limited budget'. If the long tube headers are driving some of the decisions, then that is another thing for consideration.

Your truck (I'm assuming it's a 68 step-side since you haven't mentioned that specifically here), does it have rear leaf or coil suspension?
Is there a specific reason you're looking to do a 4-link swap?

[fastwillie 696969]

heres mine narrow rear end

[68steppsidee]

its coil springs its actually a 70 frame but 67 front end so big back window making it a 68 i know i could go off trailing arms so would it be better to do 4 link or just use whats there already

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

its coil springs its actually a 70 frame but 67 front end so big back window making it a 68 i know i could go off trailing arms so would it be better to do 4 link or just use whats there already

Given your minimal budget & specific ride height limitation from the current headers, there's no reason why you shouldn't just use what you already have. That being said, you still haven't indicated is there a specific reason you're asking about a 4-link swap?

The truck arm suspension can plant the tires quite well like ladder bars in a drag car (think of ladders bars in a drag car as being the 'budget' alternative to the 4-link).
The truck arm suspension w/coils or bags offer excellent ride quality (like a passanger car that's not lowered).
The truck arm suspension is already in your possession thus good for your budget (no need to buy a complete other suspension system).

With long tube headers, you'll have a hard time exceeding a 5" front/7" rear drop w/o tearing the collectors off the exhaust. With shorty style headers & tucking the exhaust, you're limited by the OE location of the factory front x-member (specifically, the lower a-arms) as they'll start banging the ground @ anything more than a 6/8 drop. The 6/8 drop is about the limit w/o cutting up the bed floor for rear end differential clearance & frame rails for a step notch.

Are you looking to go more than 6/8 drop?

[68steppsidee]

i'd like to eventually get headers that will be above the frame and i have upper and lower tubular control arms but your saying the cross member will hit at about 6 in the front.. and the rear will can go 8 with just the diff up in the bed or will the c notch be threw as well... no reason to change rear set up just thought it would be a better way.. what if i got porterbuilt drop trailing arms as well...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

i'd like to eventually get headers that will be above the frame and i have upper and lower tubular control arms but your saying the cross member will hit at about 6 in the front.. and the rear will can go 8 with just the diff up in the bed or will the c notch be threw as well... no reason to change rear set up just thought it would be a better way.. what if i got porterbuilt drop trailing arms as well...

To be specific, at 6" of front drop w/the OE x-member & a-arm arrangement, the lower control arms like to bounce of the ground occassionally. Any lower & it will just happen more often. Not bad for a vehicle driven once or twice a month to a show.... sux for anything driven regularly.

Tubular front arms (except for Porterbuilts) will still hit just like the stock lower control arms. Porterbuilts use a smaller OD bushing so you gain about an inch more clearance (check w/him to 100% verify). I really like Porterbuilts rear truck arm set-up (both the mild & the rear Dropmember style). You could start out w/the mild Stage-2 or just use the factory arms for now w/some tweaks & get one of his kits later when the budget permits.

For 6" front drop you'd want 3" spindles, bags, & shock relocators. For 8" rear drop you'll need lowering blocks for the OE truck arms (or some of Porterbuilts 3" dropped truck arms), bags, shock relocation, bolt-in c-notches (PB's or CPP's HD unit), & a super/long, adjustable Panhard bar. If you plan on using your stock truck arms, No Limit has a nice rear shock relocation set-up now.

In the pic below, the rear end 'pumpkin' has poked a hole through the orignal (what was left of it anyway) bed wood. At ride height, the rear end axle tube is 1" above the bottom lip of the factory frame rail (1" into the frame) & 2" from bottoming out on the bolt-in CPP style c-notch. Any lower, & you need to consider a step-notch or aggressive frame mods....

[SCOTI]

Other trucks set-up using the above recommendations (just more appealing visually ).....

[68steppsidee]

yeah the stella mae truck is very nice for now if i had it like that i'd be satisfied til i got around to switching out everything to be able to lay frame

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68steppsidee

yeah the stella mae truck is very nice for now if i had it like that i'd be satisfied til i got around to switching out everything to be able to lay frame

The red truck (Lucy) went by the same drop methods as my old Bronze Beater above (modified stock stuff). Stella Mae used Porterbuilts Stage-2 mild drop front & rear.

[68steppsidee]

yeah so what all was modified in the front i think i have a jump on the front with drop tubular control arms...