Control arm caps - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Smooth68 · 03-07-2004, 12:00 PM

Can anyone tell me what size the upper and lower control arm caps are? Looks like I'm gonna have to either borrow or buy the tools to fit them as the biggest I have is 1 1/4" - thanks for the help!

72MARIO · 03-08-2004, 03:07 PM

I used a flat jaw pipe wrench. Worked for me.

SCOTI · 03-08-2004, 03:26 PM

I've used either a pipe wrench or @ my work we have some huge cresent wrenchs.

Smooth68 · 03-08-2004, 04:02 PM

I've got a big pipe wrench, but I didn't want to take a chance on screwing up the caps - that might be the way to go.

SCOTI · 03-08-2004, 07:01 PM

Just start them like a normal bolt & when you can't tighten them by hand, start using the pipe wrench & work slowly.

william 70 c/20 · 03-09-2004, 08:36 PM

yeah take it slow...i think the torque spec for my 70 c/20 caps were 250 ft/lbs...

Smooth68 · 03-09-2004, 08:55 PM

Thanks for the replies guys, but I'm trying to disassemble - I have a little bit before I am read to assemble

1971 Cheyenne · 03-09-2004, 11:16 PM

The uppers are 1 3/8 inch and the lowers are 1 5/8 inch.

I know, I had to buy both wrenches last week to do mine

.

That is for a 71 C10, It is prolly the same for c10/c20 but i'm not sure...

Smooth68 · 03-09-2004, 11:41 PM

Sweet! Thanks Cheyenne - did you replace the upper and lower control arm bushings? Any advice you can throw my way that would make the first time easier?

1971 Cheyenne · 03-10-2004, 01:42 PM

MAKE SURE that the threads are clean of paint etc. in the a-arms before you try to screw in the caps. it makes it VERY hard if you dont.

Also, make sure the upper shaft is perfecetly centered in the a-arm. Keep measuring from the side of the a-arm to a hole, then the same on ther other side. This is not crucial while you are doing it, because you can always spin the shaft to move it left or right, after it is all together. It's just gotta be in the middle when you go to put it on....

And ummmmmmmmm, just have patience, some of mine went right in, some of them went in like a %@&#. I think that was because some of my threads still had some POR15 in them though....

Hopefully this ain't too confusing..... anymore Q's just ask....

Brian

03-07-2004, 12:00 PM	#1
Smooth68 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country Posts: 1,826	Control arm caps Can anyone tell me what size the upper and lower control arm caps are? Looks like I'm gonna have to either borrow or buy the tools to fit them as the biggest I have is 1 1/4" - thanks for the help! __________________ Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - *SOLD* Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab

03-08-2004, 03:07 PM	#2
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	I used a flat jaw pipe wrench. Worked for me. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-08-2004, 03:26 PM	#3
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,031	I've used either a pipe wrench or @ my work we have some huge cresent wrenchs. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

03-08-2004, 04:02 PM	#4
Smooth68 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country Posts: 1,826	I've got a big pipe wrench, but I didn't want to take a chance on screwing up the caps - that might be the way to go. __________________ Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - *SOLD* Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab

03-08-2004, 07:01 PM	#5
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,031	Just start them like a normal bolt & when you can't tighten them by hand, start using the pipe wrench & work slowly. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

03-09-2004, 08:36 PM	#6
william 70 c/20 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: LV,NV Posts: 169	yeah take it slow...i think the torque spec for my 70 c/20 caps were 250 ft/lbs...

03-09-2004, 08:55 PM	#7
Smooth68 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country Posts: 1,826	Thanks for the replies guys, but I'm trying to disassemble - I have a little bit before I am read to assemble __________________ Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - *SOLD* Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab

03-09-2004, 11:16 PM	#8
1971 Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bellevue, WA Posts: 1,480	The uppers are 1 3/8 inch and the lowers are 1 5/8 inch. I know, I had to buy both wrenches last week to do mine . That is for a 71 C10, It is prolly the same for c10/c20 but i'm not sure... __________________ Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed

03-09-2004, 11:41 PM	#9
Smooth68 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country Posts: 1,826	Sweet! Thanks Cheyenne - did you replace the upper and lower control arm bushings? Any advice you can throw my way that would make the first time easier? __________________ Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - *SOLD* Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab

03-10-2004, 01:42 PM	#10
1971 Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bellevue, WA Posts: 1,480	MAKE SURE that the threads are clean of paint etc. in the a-arms before you try to screw in the caps. it makes it VERY hard if you dont. Also, make sure the upper shaft is perfecetly centered in the a-arm. Keep measuring from the side of the a-arm to a hole, then the same on ther other side. This is not crucial while you are doing it, because you can always spin the shaft to move it left or right, after it is all together. It's just gotta be in the middle when you go to put it on.... And ummmmmmmmm, just have patience, some of mine went right in, some of them went in like a %@&#. I think that was because some of my threads still had some POR15 in them though.... Hopefully this ain't too confusing..... anymore Q's just ask.... Brian __________________ Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed

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