Watts link - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

fletch4x4 · 05-08-2009, 04:10 AM

Figured you guys over here would like this. Just made it over the last week or so.

made a diff cover...
(2nd attempt- warped the hell outta the first ring)

made the rest...

Dont worry im gonna cut the center bolt down.

scotts62 · 05-08-2009, 07:35 AM

Well thats cool! Hope the diff cover is really strong...
Most have a brace from each axle tube

fletch4x4 · 05-08-2009, 12:43 PM

Its made out of 1/4 plate fully welded in and out.... its not goin anywhere

scotts62 · 05-08-2009, 04:49 PM

Cool, it looks real good

badblu97 · 05-10-2009, 05:55 PM

I have a question about watts in general. What is on the diff to let the watts link rotate? Is it a bearing type thingy? I would love one of these, but they are pricey!

scotts62 · 05-10-2009, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badblu97

I have a question about watts in general. What is on the diff to let the watts link rotate? Is it a bearing type thingy? I would love one of these, but they are pricey!

If you have access to a lathe and a mill you could get a piece of pipe and get a couple of sealed bearings and make the pivot pretty cheap actually. I started to make one but have decided to go another route. I bought 2 bearings for around $8ea. just some friendly info thats all..

nuke1 · 05-11-2009, 08:25 PM

The only down side to locating the center support to the differential, is when the diff cycles through the travel, you center of gravity changes, where as if the links are mounted to the diff you can adjust you ceter of gravity, to your liking by moving the pivot point up or down, regardless, i really like your design of it.

fletch4x4 · 05-11-2009, 10:57 PM

You would be surprised how little this whole thing cost. I think I managed to keep it right under 100 bucks. defiantly took some time though, prob 4-5 nights on it... not working fast at all though.

I used a big uniball at the center link. Im not 100% sure how that is gonna work out. But if it doesn't and I have to re-make the center its not the end of the world for me. The whole truck is a learning experience.

And you're right, its not the most tunable, or best way to set up a watts link, but the only reason I used it was to keep the axle centered and it does perfectly. If I didn't have to do something like this I wouldn't. I played with a track bar for a while before I just gave up and built it.

Im happy with it for now though.

scotts62 · 05-11-2009, 11:04 PM

How did you make the center S?

fletch4x4 · 05-12-2009, 06:57 PM

Plasma and a Tig- and just a little bit of grinding

Twisted Minis · 05-12-2009, 08:14 PM

How thick is the flange? It looks like the stock one?

badblu97 · 05-13-2009, 08:36 PM

Does anyone offer a Watts for a decent price? KP wants $459, and I realize they are a great company(I have their parallel on my truck) but it seems kinda expensive...

Dont mean to hijack, just wondering...

fletch4x4 · 05-13-2009, 11:15 PM

The flange is the same 1/4' that the rest of the cover is made out of. I had to make two of them because I warped the first one (oops) this one is nice and flat though.

There used to be a company called Totally polished if i remember right that made a pretty nice one. idk what happened to them though.

Twisted Minis · 05-13-2009, 11:29 PM

Last time I built a diff cover I used 3/8" for the flange and had it blanchard ground afterward. The grinding was about your entire budget though.

Totally Polished is no longer around from what I can tell. I've been thinking about building a DIY style Watt's link, that you can cut the bars to length and weld in a threaded bung, with cut to fit frame tabs.

lofly'a · 05-16-2009, 11:42 AM

TP's site is still up and active, and they list their watts for 549 + ship. it is a nice unit but 549....wow.

ruffrida2005 · 07-06-2009, 11:51 PM

Twisted you need to get on it and offer that kit. I'm not really sure that I could use a watts link anymore since I back halfed my frame and it doesn't come down anymore, When the notch goes up it stays the same height all the way back. Do yall think I could maybe still use a watts link?

Twisted Minis · 07-07-2009, 03:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Twisted you need to get on it and offer that kit. I'm not really sure that I could use a watts link anymore since I back halfed my frame and it doesn't come down anymore, When the notch goes up it stays the same height all the way back. Do yall think I could maybe still use a watts link?

I'll try to rough something out next week with some stuff I have at the shop to see if anyone likes the idea. If so, maybe I can do a special to get the ball rolling and get a lot of pieces laser cut and get the cost lower.

With your frame and it not coming down after the axle, you would basically just have some different tabs to make it work. One set would likely be short, and on the side of the frame rail. One set would be long coming down off of the frame rail, and have to be built and braced well since they would be longer.

blime81 · 07-07-2009, 01:43 AM

I like it. I have been tossing watts & parallel 4 vs tri 4 around in my head for a bit.

Any reason you went with a whole cover vice just a ring like alot of folks do?

Also if you can you post some pics of the rest of your 4 link setup fletch?

Thanks

ruffrida2005 · 07-09-2009, 09:49 PM

I dont want to step on anyones toes but heres a link for a watts link! http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/watts.html The price is really good and they have diffrent styles. about 300 cheaper then the KP watts

Twisted Minis · 07-09-2009, 10:39 PM

I am sending you a PM.

ruffrida2005 · 07-09-2009, 11:00 PM

dont use that company guys, bad joo joo with them! heres my pic twisted

robin58 · 07-10-2009, 03:37 PM

ruffrida2005, not standing up for that company at all but I remember when all the hooplah happened with BYC. However if you read the "about us" he has posted on the site you linked to, it at least looks like he's going to make good on old stuff and understands what he did wrong last time. The fact he is man enough to post that info out there instead of stay anonymous as he could should count for something. It also looks like he now understands supply & demand and has some constraints to avoid putting himself in the same position again.

ruffrida2005 · 07-10-2009, 05:16 PM

Robin i fully understand what your saying about him making right. After i talked to Twisted I really looked at the Watts links that he had and found a lot of flaws in it. Most of the stuff is made good. But what i find wrong is the way that the Heim joints attach to the center pivot. If you had two of them and used a end link between it would work great!

DHPmike · 07-12-2009, 10:43 AM

Actually the latest design has a 2 piece center crank. one plate on each side of the heims. The plate is cut on a CNC out of AR500 armor plate. Thats armor like a SWAT truck is made out of. so you wont be bending it or drilling it.

I never had any issued from anyone about the original design either.

The best thing to do on a watts if you dont have the money to buy is is make one. they are simple to make and theres no secrets in them.

DHPmike · 07-12-2009, 10:45 AM

By the way, the one in the pics at the top, the crossbars are way short and if you have alot of lift you may max them out.

You can make the bars longer and go across the center with them. many stock vehicles that use a watts have the bars crossing the center.

05-08-2009, 04:10 AM	#1
fletch4x4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Central CT Posts: 237	Watts link Figured you guys over here would like this. Just made it over the last week or so. made a diff cover... (2nd attempt- warped the hell outta the first ring) made the rest... Dont worry im gonna cut the center bolt down. __________________ Bagged/Turbo 1970 GMC C-10 Crew Cab 1984 Chevy R-20

05-08-2009, 07:35 AM	#2
scotts62 One day... Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tuttle, Ok Posts: 9,240	Re: Watts link Well thats cool! Hope the diff cover is really strong... Most have a brace from each axle tube __________________ Scott 93 crew cab build Project 62

05-08-2009, 12:43 PM	#3
fletch4x4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Central CT Posts: 237	Re: Watts link Its made out of 1/4 plate fully welded in and out.... its not goin anywhere __________________ Bagged/Turbo 1970 GMC C-10 Crew Cab 1984 Chevy R-20

05-08-2009, 04:49 PM	#4
scotts62 One day... Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tuttle, Ok Posts: 9,240	Re: Watts link Cool, it looks real good __________________ Scott 93 crew cab build Project 62

05-10-2009, 05:55 PM	#5
badblu97 Double 6's Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Winter Haven, FL Posts: 349	Re: Watts link I have a question about watts in general. What is on the diff to let the watts link rotate? Is it a bearing type thingy? I would love one of these, but they are pricey! __________________ Street Glidin! 1966 LWB Custom Cab (sold) 1982 Short Fleet (under the knife) 1998 S10 2wd Fleet 2007 Chevy Silverado Crew 2007 Harley Davidson Street Glide

05-11-2009, 08:25 PM	#7
nuke1 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan,: Posts: 2,901	Re: Watts link The only down side to locating the center support to the differential, is when the diff cycles through the travel, you center of gravity changes, where as if the links are mounted to the diff you can adjust you ceter of gravity, to your liking by moving the pivot point up or down, regardless, i really like your design of it. __________________ James 1968 GMC "HAVOC" 1986 GMC "Frank" J.J.R.H. Design & Consulting My 68`Rebuild "HAVOC": http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=316300 A 58' chev build thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=311238 1969 Camaro Pro Touring http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...61#post3513361 Swiss Cheese: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=384390 Adjustable Trailing Arm How-To: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321100 1968 Ford Farm Truck: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post6555587

05-11-2009, 10:57 PM	#8
fletch4x4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Central CT Posts: 237	Re: Watts link You would be surprised how little this whole thing cost. I think I managed to keep it right under 100 bucks. defiantly took some time though, prob 4-5 nights on it... not working fast at all though. I used a big uniball at the center link. Im not 100% sure how that is gonna work out. But if it doesn't and I have to re-make the center its not the end of the world for me. The whole truck is a learning experience. And you're right, its not the most tunable, or best way to set up a watts link, but the only reason I used it was to keep the axle centered and it does perfectly. If I didn't have to do something like this I wouldn't. I played with a track bar for a while before I just gave up and built it. Im happy with it for now though. __________________ Bagged/Turbo 1970 GMC C-10 Crew Cab 1984 Chevy R-20

05-11-2009, 11:04 PM	#9
scotts62 One day... Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tuttle, Ok Posts: 9,240	Re: Watts link How did you make the center S? __________________ Scott 93 crew cab build Project 62

05-12-2009, 06:57 PM	#10
fletch4x4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Central CT Posts: 237	Re: Watts link Plasma and a Tig- and just a little bit of grinding __________________ Bagged/Turbo 1970 GMC C-10 Crew Cab 1984 Chevy R-20

05-12-2009, 08:14 PM	#11
Twisted Minis Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Windsor, CA Posts: 500	Re: Watts link How thick is the flange? It looks like the stock one? __________________ If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it!

05-13-2009, 08:36 PM	#12
badblu97 Double 6's Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Winter Haven, FL Posts: 349	Re: Watts link Does anyone offer a Watts for a decent price? KP wants $459, and I realize they are a great company(I have their parallel on my truck) but it seems kinda expensive... Dont mean to hijack, just wondering... __________________ Street Glidin! 1966 LWB Custom Cab (sold) 1982 Short Fleet (under the knife) 1998 S10 2wd Fleet 2007 Chevy Silverado Crew 2007 Harley Davidson Street Glide

05-13-2009, 11:15 PM	#13
fletch4x4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Central CT Posts: 237	Re: Watts link The flange is the same 1/4' that the rest of the cover is made out of. I had to make two of them because I warped the first one (oops) this one is nice and flat though. There used to be a company called Totally polished if i remember right that made a pretty nice one. idk what happened to them though. __________________ Bagged/Turbo 1970 GMC C-10 Crew Cab 1984 Chevy R-20

05-13-2009, 11:29 PM	#14
Twisted Minis Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Windsor, CA Posts: 500	Re: Watts link Last time I built a diff cover I used 3/8" for the flange and had it blanchard ground afterward. The grinding was about your entire budget though. Totally Polished is no longer around from what I can tell. I've been thinking about building a DIY style Watt's link, that you can cut the bars to length and weld in a threaded bung, with cut to fit frame tabs. __________________ If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it!

05-16-2009, 11:42 AM	#15
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	Re: Watts link TP's site is still up and active, and they list their watts for 549 + ship. it is a nice unit but 549....wow. __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project

07-06-2009, 11:51 PM	#16
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Watts link Twisted you need to get on it and offer that kit. I'm not really sure that I could use a watts link anymore since I back halfed my frame and it doesn't come down anymore, When the notch goes up it stays the same height all the way back. Do yall think I could maybe still use a watts link? __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759



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07-07-2009, 01:43 AM	#18
blime81 Laid Lo Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Oceanside CA Posts: 277	Re: Watts link I like it. I have been tossing watts & parallel 4 vs tri 4 around in my head for a bit. Any reason you went with a whole cover vice just a ring like alot of folks do? Also if you can you post some pics of the rest of your 4 link setup fletch? Thanks __________________ Semper Fi, Jeff '72 C10 - lays frame '07 Sand Rail - ecotec powered '05 2500HD - tows stuff '67 VW Bug - gas saver '01 Jeep TJ - rock crawler

07-09-2009, 09:49 PM	#19
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Watts link I dont want to step on anyones toes but heres a link for a watts link! http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/watts.html The price is really good and they have diffrent styles. about 300 cheaper then the KP watts __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759

07-09-2009, 10:39 PM	#20
Twisted Minis Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Windsor, CA Posts: 500	Re: Watts link I am sending you a PM. __________________ If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it!

07-09-2009, 11:00 PM	#21
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Watts link dont use that company guys, bad joo joo with them! heres my pic twisted Attached Images __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759

07-10-2009, 03:37 PM	#22
robin58 Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 763	Re: Watts link ruffrida2005, not standing up for that company at all but I remember when all the hooplah happened with BYC. However if you read the "about us" he has posted on the site you linked to, it at least looks like he's going to make good on old stuff and understands what he did wrong last time. The fact he is man enough to post that info out there instead of stay anonymous as he could should count for something. It also looks like he now understands supply & demand and has some constraints to avoid putting himself in the same position again. Last edited by robin58; 07-10-2009 at 03:38 PM.

07-10-2009, 05:16 PM	#23
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Watts link Robin i fully understand what your saying about him making right. After i talked to Twisted I really looked at the Watts links that he had and found a lot of flaws in it. Most of the stuff is made good. But what i find wrong is the way that the Heim joints attach to the center pivot. If you had two of them and used a end link between it would work great! __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759

07-12-2009, 10:43 AM	#24
DHPmike Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Wylie Texas Posts: 91	Re: Watts link Actually the latest design has a 2 piece center crank. one plate on each side of the heims. The plate is cut on a CNC out of AR500 armor plate. Thats armor like a SWAT truck is made out of. so you wont be bending it or drilling it. I never had any issued from anyone about the original design either. The best thing to do on a watts if you dont have the money to buy is is make one. they are simple to make and theres no secrets in them.

07-12-2009, 10:45 AM	#25
DHPmike Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Wylie Texas Posts: 91	Re: Watts link By the way, the one in the pics at the top, the crossbars are way short and if you have alot of lift you may max them out. You can make the bars longer and go across the center with them. many stock vehicles that use a watts have the bars crossing the center.

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