1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

[vannatta20]

This is my second LSx swap. First was in the 68 firebird. I learned a lot and wanted to do a simple and affordable swap in my 68 and make it

my daily driver. (This was my only vehicle at the time) I have been trying to use as many factory parts as possible. I did all this in my garage

and driveway with very limited amount of tools. I borrowed a engine

hoist and stand from a friend and got to work. I removed the front end as an entire assembly which is very easy to do. Next I mocked up the

engine with all the accy's on including the a/c. Everything to fit which is great because the accy drives from a fbody or any

other platform cost alot to convert too. I fitted it with the included truck exhaust manifolds but I had to notch the frame. I ended up using

camaro LS3 exhaust manifolds which fit great and no notching is needed. I got them for 80$ used.

Next I bolted on the engine and frame mounts. i drilled new holes for the 73-87 truck frame mounts and

bolted them down. The driveshaft seemed like it would fit without being modified but it was tough to move the engine forward just using a

engine hoist by myself. I ended up using a ratcheting tie strap tied to the engine and frame. I just ratcheted the engine forward until the drive

shaft could be installed to the rear end. The mounts have a few inches to adjustablility which is great. Below are my costs.

Engine with all accy including computer. 600$ 130000 miles

Tranny, got lucky my dad had an extra 4l60E with low miles. Free

2001 Camaro fuel tank with fuel pump, radiator and e fans. 200$ (Edit Do not use a camaro radiator. It will overheat due to not enough cooling capacity for the

heavier trucks) A stock replacement worked great for me off of ebay.)

Engine mounts 120$

Ls3 exhaust manifolds (80$)

Radiator hose (25$)

Wiring harness. It came with the engine. To save alot of $$ reuse it. Its basically a stand alone. Its ugly and needs to have everything

mounted in the same position of the vehicle it came off of. PCM and battery needs to be mounted on the drivers side. fuse block wiring info http://www.lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm

All wiring related info can be found on lt1swap.com

How I kept it simple. Used dirty dingo adjustable mounts for mid to late 80's GM trucks. They have 2 inches forward and back adjustability. Next I got frame mounts for free from the same era of trucks.
[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

The engine mount on the left is the factory inline 6.(not used in swap) The mount on the right is a late 70's clam style mount(both l and r used

in swap. This pic is used to show the difference between mounts.

I usually have a extra PCM or two for sale. I will put a base tune with vats deleted and all emission related junk. PM for details.

[vannatta20]

more

[vannatta20]

[vannatta20]

Goods news My factory drive shaft slid right into the tranny and is the correct length! I adjusted the motor foward/back to get it to work with the tranny. Factory 5.3 exhaust manifolds fit with some minor trimming of the frame. Factory a/c fits but the a/c lines would need some work to fit around the frame. Tomorrow will be the first start and will post more pics.

[faun_cee]

Originally Posted by vannatta20

Goods news My factory drive shaft slid right into the tranny and is the correct length! I adjusted the motor foward/back to get it to work with the tranny. Factory 5.3 exhaust manifolds fit with some minor trimming of the frame. Factory a/c fits but the a/c lines would need some work to fit around the frame. Tomorrow will be the first start and will post more pics.

is this a short bed? i am worried about my drive shaft not fitting but if you have a short bed then i have no worries

[vannatta20]

Engine start a few weeks ago just on a stand

5.3 engine startup on just an engine stand -...

[gringoloco]

Nice! That is the easy way. How far forward is your engine? What trans did you remove? Good work so far
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[Indian113]

Thats sweet!! I like what your doing and how your doing it. Keep us posted.

[vannatta20]

Good question on the tranny. I had a factory 3 speed manual. The engine sits more to the rear. Ill take some pics. I am using the factory wiring harness and fuse box.

[gringoloco]

She sounds like a thumper. Stock cam?
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[vannatta20]

Stock cam just sounds mean with no exhaust.

68 C10 with 5.3 first start - YouTube

First start today installed in the truck!

[vannatta20]

1968 C10 5.3 swap first drive - YouTube

Its a driver

[ls1nova71]

Nice! I like it, but I think I would have added power steering. Oh, and loose the clutch pedal.

[v62go]

i like your choice in music....

[Clyde65]

Check out Doc's Blocks for the AC manifold/lines that will work for you.

[orngsikL]

motivation!

[vannatta20]

I got a underdash a/c from a friend for 40$. Going to plumb up the system next week and test it out. If it doesnt cool well enough I will the the vintage air gen 4. Any one have a cheap set of auto pedals?

[mooseknuckles]

those are sweet guages!

[gringoloco]

A basic cluster is 3-hole and will fit your gauges perfectly. You can remove the clutch pedal
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[vannatta20]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

A basic cluster is 3-hole and will fit your gauges perfectly. You can remove the clutch pedal
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I ordered a billet insert for my dash that is 3 gauges only. Prob is it didnt fit at all? http://www.classicparts.com/1969-72-...tinfo/24-194B/

its about a 1/2 inch to wide. I am going to return it and get the basic 3 gauge panel. How can I remove the clutch pedal? Looks like pivot rod is welded to it. I could take the angle grinder to it...

[vannatta20]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

A basic cluster is 3-hole and will fit your gauges perfectly. You can remove the clutch pedal
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I ordered a billet insert for my dash that is 3 gauges only. Prob is it didnt fit at all? http://www.classicparts.com/1969-72-...tinfo/24-194B/

its about a 1/2 inch to wide. I am going to return it and get the basic 3 gauge panel. How can I remove the clutch pedal? Looks like pivot rod is welded to it. I could take the angle grinder to it... Also whats the easiest way to plug the gas cap hole. How can I get the gas cap in there and make it stay put?

[faribran]

tell me about those gauges...what brand and where do i get them? they appear to work with the LS engine??

[vannatta20]

Originally Posted by faribran

tell me about those gauges...what brand and where do i get them? they appear to work with the LS engine??

Cheap autometers

Amazon.com: Auto Meter 1699 Old Tyme White...tach
Amazon.com: Auto Meter 1388 Arctic White/Red PTR...Electric speedo
quad gauge I paid 90$ amazon mis priced it though....
Amazon.com: Auto Meter 1210 Old Tyme White II...

[68GMCCustom]

if the cab gas tank isn't worth saving you could drain it, clean it out, and cut the filler neck off and make a bracket to hold it in place. Then put the cap on and leave it.

Or....fill it with a piece of metal and weld it in, use some filler, and a little primer and your done. You can buy the precut metal piece at various dealers selling parts for these trucks...or make your own.

[gringoloco]

The clutch pedal and rod should come out, but you'll have to drop the column and pedal assembly. I've seen where guys will use a piece of flat bar and a carriage bolt through the filler cap to sandwich it in place, if that makes sense. What did you do for a tank?
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