Mini starters

[Lattimer]

I did some forum searching, but haven't found a specific answer.

What mini starters can fit our trucks with the bellhousing starter mount? I've looked all over the usual websites, but everything I see seems to be block mounted.

I'm having heat soak issues, and from what I have read a mini starter and a heat shield should solve my issue.

Thanks in advance!!

[Don Quixote]

Subscribed. I'd like to know, too.

[Jayschevy]

I'm not sure what a bellhousing starter mount looks like but I have a 71 and I'm using this starter and love it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-829100

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by Jayschevy

I'm not sure what a bellhousing starter mount looks like but I have a 71 and I'm using this starter and love it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-829100

That type mounts to the block. Mine has bolts front to back that mount to the bellhousing.

[AusTx68]

I sure hope you find one cheaper than this: Quarter Master 114267B Starter for Bellhousing

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by AusTx68

I sure hope you find one cheaper than this: Quarter Master 114267B Starter for Bellhousing

Yeah, thats a little out of my range.

[BADPURPLE70CHEVY]

I am using this guys starters on my 406 small block. My brother drag races and uses this starter also with zero problems. No heat soak issues and best part is he has a killer warranty policy. Great price also. Just look in the listing details of this starter and you will see there phone number and you can call and see if they have one for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BBC-CHEV...0326d9&vxp=mtr

[68c10airstream]

hi shawn, The ministarters, especially the nippondenso gear reduction body that adapts to an aluminum plate. No heat soak issues because of this; the way the solenoid is designed is this, oem= hot= high resistance, low amps, may not engage. The nipponsenso starter is the opposite, hot=low resistance, high amps, pulls in harder hot. The nippondenso starter has ball bearings to support armature, and gear reduction for torgue. These nippondenso starters came as oem on imports through the years, now being rebuilt or copied, and with an adapter plate to bolt up to it's intended application. Good luck, brian fuller

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

hi shawn, The ministarters, especially the nippondenso gear reduction body that adapts to an aluminum plate. No heat soak issues because of this; the way the solenoid is designed is this, oem= hot= high resistance, low amps, may not engage. The nipponsenso starter is the opposite, hot=low resistance, high amps, pulls in harder hot. The nippondenso starter has ball bearings to support armature, and gear reduction for torgue. These nippondenso starters came as oem on imports through the years, now being rebuilt or copied, and with an adapter plate to bolt up to it's intended application. Good luck, brian fuller

Thats what I had read.

Now I just need one that will bolt up properly.

[Chvy2NV]

Subd
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[Zable49]

I know what starter you need because I required the same one for my old 64, but for some reason I can't find one either.
In the meantime, I would fab up a heatshield and heat blanket attached to the shield to protect your current starter. You might be able to get away from having to buy a new starter for awhile. Give your self some time to find the right one.

[Andy4639]

Here is the link to what I found and have been using now for over 3 years with no problems. Plus it a stock itam at the store.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4151565

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Here is the link to what I found and have been using now for over 3 years with no problems. Plus it a stock itam at the store.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4151565

That mounts to the block.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

That mounts to the block.

Yes I know. I was showing you the link so you could go and ask and see if they had anything. But whatever.
The starter was less than $150.00 new with a life time warrinty. They may have something that will work I don't know, but it would be worth a try. Are just pull the motor and drill it.

[Dnrice]

I had problems with my truck not starting when hot so I took it to an alternator starter shop. They put a rebuilt mini starter in. I think various types work as long as the gears fit and it is not too big for space. $220 and I have not had a problem since.

[rsavage]

You have a starter (3 bolts if I remember correctly) that mounts only to the manual trans bell housing and not the block. I have never see a mini starter that would mount to the bell housing. That doesn't mean they don't exist, it is just that I have never seen one. I believe everyone is showing you or describing block mount starters. As a side note, if you have to replace your original starter keep and use your nose. The nose pieces on the rebuilt starters I have been able to get are thicker and you will have clearance issues with the inside of the bell housing - starter won't bolt up as it will be cocked very slightly.

[MARKDTN]

Why do you want it to mount to the bellhousing and not the block? Just get a stock one from a mid 90s truck or Suburban. Bolt it to the block and be done. Available at any auto parts store. No need to get an expensive aftermarket one.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Why do you want it to mount to the bellhousing and not the block? Just get a stock one from a mid 90s truck or Suburban. Bolt it to the block and be done. Available at any auto parts store. No need to get an expensive aftermarket one.

My block is not drilled for a starter mount.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

My block is not drilled for a starter mount.

I have never heard of a small-block not drilled for a starter. What kind of block is it?

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

I have never heard of a small-block not drilled for a starter. What kind of block is it?

its a truck 327. I believe its from 1966.

There are no holes where the starter would mount in the block. I have another 327 Im building for it that has both patterns drilled and tapped in the block.
I was hoping for a starter that would cure my issues and fit both blocks, but now I know why I cant find one.

[Shyguy]

I got a mini starter at DB Electric for my '74 454 and it works real good, the price was so good I could not pass it up.

It does bolt to the block though. I have a SM-465 transmission.

My son put a starter on one of his trucks that is for a '95 truck and it works good.

[burnin oil]

Could always cheat and remove the solenoid from the starter. Kits used to be dirt cheap from Summit. Other option is to wrap your exhaust with header tape. My intake manifold is hotter than the headers on my 406! Helps to keep radiant heat off of the oil filter also.

[leddzepp]

Contact Powermaster. Brady is tech support and if they do exist for your application, he will know.
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[Don Quixote]

I have known many 350s that will pop right off when cranked once warm but not mine. I haven't ruled out the starter heat-soaking as many will mention but there is only so much one can do logically when you are not even running headers. When I start her warm, she will crank and crank and it's like she says, "Nope, not doing it, nope...nope...nope...oh alright I'll do it already!"

[Shyguy]

Originally Posted by Don Quixote

I have known many 350s that will pop right off when cranked once warm but not mine. I haven't ruled out the starter heat-soaking as many will mention but there is only so much one can do logically when you are not even running headers. When I start her warm, she will crank and crank and it's like she says, "Nope, not doing it, nope...nope...nope...oh alright I'll do it already!"

Some people that are using Edelbrock carbs have this problem if they don't have a phenolic spacer under the carb.