Gauge Cluster in and Functional

[BaddBusa2005]

I put the 91 blazer cluster in tonight and everything is working other than the oil pressure guage. I am not sure if it is the guage or some wiring. The gauge doesnt zero out, I can ground it out and it doesnt move. I didnt have a voltmeter to test signal. It sounds like the guage tho. I am going to go back through the wiring tomorrow.


If anyone knows how to test the gauges I would greatly appreciative for the information.

Ryan

[Russell]

Awesome! I'm just about to start my 6.0L swap in my 80 -- Any hints or tips? Did you use the signal coming from the PCM for the speedo, or did you use a DRAC, and just split the signal coming from the transmission?

As far as the gauges go, there isn't really much of an established testing procedure that I've ever heard of... Probally be easiest to just replace the gauge outright...

[BaddBusa2005]

Originally Posted by Russell

Awesome! I'm just about to start my 6.0L swap in my 80 -- Any hints or tips? Did you use the signal coming from the PCM for the speedo, or did you use a DRAC, and just split the signal coming from the transmission?

As far as the gauges go, there isn't really much of an established testing procedure that I've ever heard of... Probally be easiest to just replace the gauge outright...

I cant stand it when i cannot figure something out, i just got in from outside and i manually zero'd the gauge by moving the needle, as soon as I turn the ignition on, the gauge pegged. It seems that there may be a short or the gauge is fubard.

As far as tips, do not half ass anything you will regret it. I did so much as half as my fuel tank, but I did use my stock non baffled tank and anything below 1/2 tank with fuel slosh you get a nice fuem pump whine from running the feual away from the pump. I would use all truck accessories they fit nicely in the frame rails. Also, find a dual line fuel rail for the intake....it makes the fuel system pretty easy. If you do not get a dual line I have a trick or two for that system as well.

[Russell]

My 6.0L is a 2002 engine, has the dual line fuel rail, and a cable driven throttle body. I've got my electrical and fuel system figured out already, and the PCM flash done, what I'm waiting on now is the money to purchase the stuff I need to rebuild my NV4500's shifter stuff, and the clutch / bellhousing stuff I need to bolt it on.

Did you use the stock NBS radiator? The truck I pulled my engine from has involved in a front end collision with a moose, which wrecked the radiator, but didn't hurt the engine any.

Are you using the stock NBS fan? Mine is good, but I was wondering if it'd be easier to just bolt a set of windstar fans up instead...

My engine mounts are gonna be a set of those conversion plates. Did you have any trouble with the passenger side exhaust manifold?

[Pyrotechnic]

Back when I did the engine swap in my 78 (gen I small block) I just added an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and ditched the sensor for the stock gauge. It just sits pegged at max whenever the truck is running.

Sounds like either it's not getting any signal or it's getting the wrong signal.

Did you use the correct sensor from a gen I block that goes with that gauge or are you using a different sensor ?

[BaddBusa2005]

Originally Posted by Russell

My 6.0L is a 2002 engine, has the dual line fuel rail, and a cable driven throttle body. I've got my electrical and fuel system figured out already, and the PCM flash done, what I'm waiting on now is the money to purchase the stuff I need to rebuild my NV4500's shifter stuff, and the clutch / bellhousing stuff I need to bolt it on.

Did you use the stock NBS radiator? The truck I pulled my engine from has involved in a front end collision with a moose, which wrecked the radiator, but didn't hurt the engine any.

Are you using the stock NBS fan? Mine is good, but I was wondering if it'd be easier to just bolt a set of windstar fans up instead...

My engine mounts are gonna be a set of those conversion plates. Did you have any trouble with the passenger side exhaust manifold?

For the cooling I used my original radiator, with late madel upper and lower hoses. The fan I use is a slime line electric single fan. I made some custom mounts that wrap around the top of the radiator and bolt to the bottom. I do not have any updated pics yet.

I used S&P plates and converted to poly engine mounts. On the driverside engine mount cup, we had to relocated the hole about an inch higher.

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by BaddBusa2005

For the cooling I used my original radiator, with late madel upper and lower hoses. The fan I use is a slime line electric single fan. I made some custom mounts that wrap around the top of the radiator and bolt to the bottom. I do not have any updated pics yet.

I used S&P plates and converted to poly engine mounts. On the driverside engine mount cup, we had to relocated the hole about an inch higher.

It sounds like you need to do a 're-'write-up of your engine install. (hint hint...)

[BaddBusa2005]

Originally Posted by boxrodz

It sounds like you need to do a 're-'write-up of your engine install. (hint hint...)

I know I do....I have been here and there but I can not find a whole lot of time right now. I will get it done.


I appreciate the table above. I took the shunt resistor off of the guage and it would just peg at 60, put it back on and it pegs way out....I am just happy to have a working speedo. I am finally able to get my dash back together. I am really happy with how looks...I know its factory and all, but the functionality it perfect.

[Jonboy]

The oil pressure gauge is the same one they used for years, isn't it? I know the speedo is different, but I thought the rest of the gauges are the same.

[BaddBusa2005]

I figured out what the problem is, there is a ceramic resistor or something on the back of the guage that is shorted out, causing more than full ground to the guage. It points to full right when powered. I ordered a new one from the dealer today.

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by BaddBusa2005

I figured out what the problem is, there is a ceramic resistor or something on the back of the guage that is shorted out, causing more than full ground to the guage. It points to full right when powered. I ordered a new one from the dealer today.

Good job.

It sounds like the shunt resistor burned out on the gauge.

I threw together a quick table showing the gauge reading based on the resistance sent to the signal lead from the oil pressure sensor. It also shows the reading for an open (unplugged) and a short (grounded) conditions.

[BaddBusa2005]

Boy o boy the dealer is proud of that gauge.