motor mount help/ S-10 swap

[southbounddee]

gonna use this sbc motor in my '52 gmc/ S-10 swap, wanting to use these motor mounts,not sure how far back the motor needs to sit. If someone has done this or could tell me how many inches from center of the rubber mount on the A frame to the center of the mounting holes on the block. the mounts i have will set my motor back 4'' hoping and wishing they will work.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

I'm gonna be doing the same to mine. Hopefully someone who has already done one will chime in, but I don't think there's a magic number. I think it all depends on which water pump your using and how you're mounting your radiator.

[southbounddee]

ok the info i got was it is about 5 1/4'' from the front leading edge of the cross member to the first hole on the block (where the mount bolts to the block).so i put my s-10 v8 motor mount on backwards and got 5''. now i was told you can't use s-10 v8 motor mounts they won't work. i'm really feeling if turn them around so the motor is pushed back instead of forward it will work..has anyone tried and faild?

[1952ssr]

That is how my LT1 is mounted, I thought I messed up by putting them on backwards but, that's the only way it would fit. I think you'll be fine, with mine they are slotted and if I could go back it probably would a little more, but without a distributor it's hard to tell exactly. I think your pan might be close or even hit the cross member and up front may be alittle tight like 63/64 bowties said. You'll just have to set it in and see.

[nickp51chevy]

That's the way to do it. You should be good to go.

[southbounddee]

Nickp51chevy...i really like your truck your cab mounts are where it's at!,doesn't look like you are gonna be able to use your fuel pump, how many inches from the front leading of the cross member to the first hole on your block(where the mount bolts to)?

[54 jimmy]

i could not use a mech fuel pump on mine. i put a eletric pump on the frame rail. if you like i could take a few pics of my frame as the cab is off if you would like. good thinking on the s10 v8 swap mounts i thought about doing that my self but went another way. hope it workks give it a try. if you want a cheap trans mounl get one out of a late 80's early 90's full size 1500 2wd truck and cut it down to fit between the f rails and make some mounts. look at my build for the pics.

[southbounddee]

54 jimmy...your transmission mount is where it's at! will be doing that for sure,and yes i would love to see your photos,all the help i can get is the best help

[54 jimmy]

glad to help. i only paid 5 bucks for the trans crossmember at the u pull it here in nepa. beats 70 bucks for a tubular one espically when you have to modify it to fit anyway. i try to get those pics today.

[nickp51chevy]

Originally Posted by southbounddee

Nickp51chevy...i really like your truck your cab mounts are where it's at!,doesn't look like you are gonna be able to use your fuel pump, how many inches from the front leading of the cross member to the first hole on your block(where the mount bolts to)?

Thanks. I'm not going to use a mechanical fuel pump, going to be electric; not sure which one I'm going to use. I couldn't tell you what the measurement is as the truck is all put together. I'm sure that someone else can help you out with that.

I just cut down the s10 trans mount and welded it back together where I needed it. Then I just drilled some new holes, and welded a bracket for mounting the trans cross member. Use as much of the s10 stuff as you can as it will same you money and time looking for something else.

[Dan Bowles]

Don't use the S10 mounts. The S10 needs the engine moved 4" forward and you need it moved about 1 3/4" back!

I've done it and my son drove his again last weekend, just use a plate and slide the mounts back. Find a kid wanting an S10 swap and sell him those mounts!! I did that, too!!!!

[Dan Bowles]

Nick is right on with reuse reuse reuse. I used a full size trans cross in my son's truck and just welded pads to it to mount it to the frame.

I used an S10 blazer tank with the pump in the tank and put a pretty block off plate over the mech fuel pump hole. I'd notch the S10 cradle if I was going to run a mechanical pump but I've seen a few that look like they'll be a pain to change without pulling at least 1 side of the mount.

If I had it to do over, I'd slot the cradle and put a plate on the motor mount and then weld it in because even having both sides up 1/4" was trouble to get the motor in just right. Oh wait, I DO have it to do over, I started another S10 swap last weekend...

Anybody got a spare latch plate?!

[Dan Bowles]

I've got about 10 mm between the dizzy and firewall on an HEI (finger thickness) if that means anything. I would almost think a smart guy could leave it in the stock holes and move the radiator forward like the old 235 swaps did.

[southbounddee]

Dan Bowles.. moving the motor back an 1 3/4'' back doesn't seem to be enough to me...do you have any photos of what you did?

[54 jimmy]

here are the pics hope these help.

[Dan Bowles]

Yep, a whole build thread. It ended up being less than a full bolt center on the mounts.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=137385

The back edge of the valve cover just clears the firewall. 4" block plus 1" S10 puck for cab mount, angled the radiator to get it off of the steering box.

Starting a new short box now. I may mock up the engine this weekend if the weather doesn't stink.

[Dan Bowles]

If anyone needs more pictures, let me know. My son is VERY proud of his truck and willing to measure and document. I'll give you my cell number and go out with a flashlight and tape measure if you need me to!

Jimmy, that trans mount looks just about the same as mine. Upside down U channel notched to go between the rails.

Looks almost like the same fuel pressure regulator, Holley? I ran a return line back to the tank but put a set screw drilled small (forget the letter) and have the gauge at the carb. Running 6 psi, I think. You can see it in the one video fairly well (linked on my HAMB sig line or search First Fire on YouTube). I put the regulator under the battery box cover so I can get to it.

I'm not saying I'm the rightest, I'm just saying I've got one that runs and drives after 3 years of messing it up! Trial and ERROR happened a LOT.

[Dan Bowles]

Looks like page 7, post #128 shows a good side view. I'll keep searching or go take more this weekend. Page 7 #140 is fair.

[nickp51chevy]

I haven't been on the hamb for so long.

[Dan Bowles]

I spend my time in the AD Truckers social group for the most part. Too much drama in the main board for me. I just want to play with trucks!

Nice fleet, by the way!

We've got:
1 1949 1 ton panel
1 1954 1/2 ton S10 framed hot rod
1 1954 1/2 ton stock pile
1 1954 1 1/2 ton body
1 1947-54 pile going on an S10 frame ('47 cab, 51 VIN, 54 nose, 50 something hood, 52 bed...)
1 1992 3500 Xcab dually 454
1 1993 1500 Xcab
1 2002 Astro AWD
1 2004 Trailblazer A4WD
1 1941 Chevy Coupe shell

And I've got a hemi for something!

[nickp51chevy]

Ya thats why I left. The AD trucks section wasn't big enough for me. I love this place. It's everything I was looking for. I'm a one forum man now

[Dan Bowles]

The social group isn't too bad. Actually one of the top 5 in size and top 3 in activity. I see a bit of repetition here but that's OK. Just folks need to use the search function...or keep from taking over a poor guys thread asking about motor mounts!!

I remember you from over there because of your red headed son. Mine turns 17 next month and we are planning seat belts and the wrap up of his truck this year.

[nickp51chevy]

Ya; sorry about that southbounddee.

[Dan Bowles]

You might check this thread out: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...2&postcount=45

He says he went back 2 3/4". I'll get my tape out.

[southbounddee]

54 jimmy,...thanks for the photos, do you know how many inches from the center of your motor mount to the top bolt on your cross member,and how far is your distributor from your fire wall???