Sheared seat belt bolts, need advice

[SilveradoDude]

I completely sheared the heads of several of the seat belt bolts when removing my carpet. I didn't want to apply any heat to them as they were directly above my gas tanks. I did apply plenty of penetrating lube but it didn't help much. How should I go about removing the rest of what is left of these bolts? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[nbpro]

Smack it with a hammer several times. Get a good pair of vice grips, maybe that will work. Other than that, I have no idea.

[bikes&bowties]

E-Z out? I would take a little propane torch to it.. it wont get hot enough to cause issues with the fuel tank

[Tx Firefighter]

Don't use an EZ out. If the large bolt was so seized it broke off, the smaller EZ out is sure to break off, leaving you a much bigger problem.

Drop a big nut onto the bolt stub sticking up and weld the nut to the bolt remains nice and hot. Let it cool and it will quite likely turn right out. The heat is the secret.

I did a tech article on this technique awhile back. I'll see if I can find it.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by tx firefighter

don't use an ez out. If the large bolt was so seized it broke off, the smaller ez out is sure to break off, leaving you a much bigger problem.

Drop a big nut onto the bolt stub sticking up and weld the nut to the bolt remains nice and hot. Let it cool and it will quite likely turn right out. The heat is the secret.

I did a tech article on this technique awhile back. I'll see if i can find it.

x2

[russgt]

x3, mine did the same, welded on nut on to the remaining shank of the bolt underneath the truck and used a little heat.

[Bullitt519]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Don't use an EZ out. If the large bolt was so seized it broke off, the smaller EZ out is sure to break off, leaving you a much bigger problem.

Drop a big nut onto the bolt stub sticking up and weld the nut to the bolt remains nice and hot. Let it cool and it will quite likely turn right out. The heat is the secret.

I did a tech article on this technique awhile back. I'll see if I can find it.

Yep this works great we do this all the time at the body shop i worked at esp on bolts damaged in wreaks...

[SilveradoDude]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Don't use an EZ out. If the large bolt was so seized it broke off, the smaller EZ out is sure to break off, leaving you a much bigger problem.

Drop a big nut onto the bolt stub sticking up and weld the nut to the bolt remains nice and hot. Let it cool and it will quite likely turn right out. The heat is the secret.

I did a tech article on this technique awhile back. I'll see if I can find it.

Ok, I have never had a good experience with easy-outs and welding a nut to the top of the bolt is not an option because I do not have a welder and do not weld (I don't know why you think I would). So I see my other options are drilling it out in whole or in part, applying heat or using vice grips...or a combination of the group.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by SilveradoDude

Ok, I have never had a good experience with easy-outs and welding a nut to the top of the bolt is not an option because I do not have a welder and do not weld (I don't know why you think I would). So I see my other options are drilling it out in whole or in part, applying heat or using vice grips...or a combination of the group.

A little testy aren't you ?

[SilveradoDude]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

A little testy aren't you ?

Not testy just why you think everyone owns a welder is a little mystifying.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by SilveradoDude

Not testy just why you think everyone owns a welder is a little mystifying.

do you know someone with a welder?

usually anyone who works on much of anything either owns, or knows some one who owns a welder.

you can drill and tap it, but you must be perfectly centered and use the correct size bit.

the process Kevin mentioned it the quickest and easiest method I have found.

[nbpro]

Originally Posted by SilveradoDude

Ok, I have never had a good experience with easy-outs and welding a nut to the top of the bolt is not an option because I do not have a welder and do not weld (I don't know why you think I would). So I see my other options are drilling it out in whole or in part, applying heat or using vice grips...or a combination of the group.

read post 1 and 14 it looks like copy and paste ?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=84732

[SilveradoDude]

Originally Posted by nbpro

read post 1 and 14 its looks like copy and paste ?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=84732

It looks pretty original to me.....

[nbpro]

What I was referring to looks like the same question was asked on that website. And the same response when people suggested welding. Some have said vicegrips will strip the bolt out. Back in the early 80s I worked in an upholstery shop and this happened to me on more than one occasion. I found out what was making the bolt strip was all the crud and rust the bolt gets over the years. And hitting with a hammer before starting always allowed me to get the bolt out. But the bolts are big enough you can put vicegrips on them and they won't strip. Most of them don't go into the frame, and are countersunk. Here's a pic of standard seat belt bolts.

[nbpro]

Originally Posted by SilveradoDude

It looks pretty original to me.....

that would look pretty tool.... original to me.

[Tx Firefighter]

Here is the thread...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=355839

Weld it nice and hot. The entire nut should be glowing dull red when you're through if you do it right. The heat wicks down into the threads and loosens er right up. Let er cool and twist it out.

[old Rusty C10]

if that dont work drill tap and die set

[old Rusty C10]

vice grips will strip it.. drill tap and die

[suprachrgd82]

If you go so much as a stump left, have a buddy with a wire-feed welder tack on a nut to the stumps. It won't create enough heat to cause worry about the gas tanks, but do cover in foil or wet cloth for safety. The heat from welding on the nuts will help free the threads, and the bolts can be removed with an ordinary socket.

Drilling for easy-outs runs the risk of damaging the original threads. Most folks consider this as a last resort.

[87chevy.com]

Dont hit the bolt downwards... guaranteed to poke a hole in the gas tank. I got mad and angry and did just that... poked a hole on the top of the tank.
clint

[mr48chev]

TX Firefighter gave you the best answer and the one that will most likely work with the least hassle. And I would believe that would be pretty normal for 90% of the people on here to assume that a member on here either had a welder or had a friend who had one or knew of a shop that could do the work.

From my experience those bolts are pretty hard and won't drill out well.

[big_b]

i have the same problem now. underneath the cab were the bolt protrudes through the floor, the threads of the bolt are rusty stopping the bolts (the annoying torx head) from turning. i am going to cut the rusty treads off with an angle grinder and hopefully be able to loosen the bolts from inside the cab with vise grips. if that fails i will weld a nut to the top of the bolt, inside the cab and turn that out. if that fails i will swear and curse at it and finger something else out!

[willett]

holy attitude....

[old Rusty C10]

if th is thread does not change in attitude quickly it will be locked .

[motornut]

Yikes not the best way to ask/get help
the "weld a bolt after it shears off" is the best fix i know of
(worked on manifold studs,lost locking wheel nuts,done this lots of other places)
i tried sand blasting of the bolt clean at the bottom didn't help
Snapped all my torx
It was suggested in another thread to grind the head square to fit a socket...
to bad your past that point
If your choice is to drill it out you can use large size proper grade bolts and large washers to repair this problem