65 Suburban Liftgate Door Adjustments

[RoyL]

It looks like all the pieces are there and the top and bottom half align pretty good, but seems to be alot of slop in there and the rear tailgate/liftgate rattles over bumps. I have to push the button and pull the top half and the bottom moves before the top lets loose to open . . .

May need some adjusting. Any tips on adjustments to tighten her up? [btw, i have tightened that handle up with loose bolts in pic]
Here's a few pics:

[Corts60]

My tailgate also rattles and does not fit properly. The bottom is fine, but the top gate is awkward. So far as I can tell, there isn't too much of an adjustment and it seems that maybe all the hinge pins/bushings need to be replaced. I'm not too sure though and I have not really torn into it yet.

Maybe other suburban owners can chime in as well.

[RoyL]

Anybody tried different weatherstripping for the the rear doors? Something thicker or some rubber pieces in strategic places to stop the rattling?

[RoyL]

Got to looking a little closer at how the center latch works. Looks like the upper door catch bar needs to be centered within the "C" slot on the lower door latch. My C catch doesn't go back far enough. That's why she won't let go when I push the button in part way to release the upper door.

The 63 Shop Manual has various adjustments called out on BODY pages 1-25 thru 1-29.

Will report when I try to adjust the center latch.

Roy

[gostranger]

has anyone tried different weatherstripping if so what i think fatter softer stuff would get rid of the rattle!!

[Corts60]

New weather stripping would help for sure, but I am more concerned with latch operation and body line match up. My latch actually works very well, but my body lines are all over the road.

[A.T. RockDriller]

RoyL...
I don't have a Burb...so I'm unable to verify this,.... but is it possible that your catch is backwards....?

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by A.T. RockDriller

RoyL...
I don't have a Burb...so I'm unable to verify this,.... but is it possible that your catch is backwards....?

yep, you are correct, she's on there backwards . . .

The shop manual pic is hard to see, but clear enough to see what direction it's supposed to be. I reversed the latch, and did some adjusting of the center 3 screws (under the access panel in the bottom door) as discussed in the manual. That helps to get the button release of the top door back to normal, but the slop (movement) of the bottom and top doors is still 1/2 inch or so. Plently of movement there. Gonna work on the side catch adjustments, manual says to using modeling clay to check that. Gotta re-read and see if I can get the side catches to hold the bottom door in place so it doesn't move once latched. Thx to all, will post more when I get back to it.

Roy

[Demmit_Hemmit's 65]

I had thweproblem with mine....................I have the Chevy shop manual and it explained how to adjust it to work properly..............That manual has helped me a lot when working on my burb....................Hemmit

[gostranger]

Originally Posted by Demmit_Hemmit's 65

I had thweproblem with mine....................I have the Chevy shop manual and it explained how to adjust it to work properly..............That manual has helped me a lot when working on my burb....................Hemmit

is there a way to post the adjustment proceedure that would be an awesome help for all the suburban owners!!!!!

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by gostranger

is there a way to post the adjustment proceedure that would be an awesome help for all the suburban owners!!!!!

They got the pdf files for the Shop Manual "locked" so you can't cut and paste parts you want to reference. The 63 Shop Manual has adjustments called out on the BODY Section, pages 1-25 thru 1-29.

[LT1 Burb]

I think Les is on to something, my truck isn't here but the latch looks odd so I can't verify if it is incorrect. I would use no other rubbers for a suburban than Steele rubber products. Every other manufacturer's products are JUNK , I have made the mistake with Brothers so don't follow in my footsteps.

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by LT1 Burb

I think Les is on to something, my truck isn't here but the latch looks odd so I can't verify if it is incorrect. I would use no other rubbers for a suburban than Steele rubber products. Every other manufacturer's products are JUNK , I have made the mistake with Brothers so don't follow in my footsteps.

LT1,
Can you send me picture of your rear door weatherstripping? It seems like the doors do not hardly touch the rubber. Will check this weekend on if it really does. Haven't used the water hose on her yet . . .
Thx,
Roy

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by RoyL

LT1,
Can you send me picture of your rear door weatherstripping? It seems like the doors do not hardly touch the rubber. Will check this weekend on if it really does. Haven't used the water hose on her yet . . .
Thx,
Roy

LT1,
Thx for pics via email, my weatherstripping is on the body side not the tailgate or lift gate doors . . .




Do you have a piece across the center at the top of the tailgate, on top of the door? Like this?



Here's a link to steele's weatherstripping:
https://secure.steelerubber.com/cgi-...in=1966CMC1416

[padresag]

I just went out and checked mine and it is the other way around from the above pictured one
ron

[Corts60]

Originally Posted by padresag

I just went out and checked mine and it is the other way around from the above pictured one
ron

x2

[LT1 Burb]

I don't think I do because the rubber is attached to the top gate, I will look tomorrow to verify but I am 100% sure I don't.

[oem4me]

It appears your rubber has been altered away from stock whether accidentally or in a effort to solve rattling issues. The rubber on my burb is all factory and in good shape. Both the gate and lid shut solidly, independent of each other or together, with few rattles. The gate support arms might make a little noise over rough roads, but not too bad around town.
You can't see it all in the photo below, but from the factory the lid has rubber all the way around, and the gate only on three sides. No rubber on top of the gate and no rubber on the body.
Perhaps fresh rubber of the proper shape and in the correct locations could help your situation?

[LT1 Burb]

That's how my rubber is too and the gate fits great and no rattles at all.

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by oem4me

It appears your rubber has been altered away from stock whether accidentally or in a effort to solve rattling issues. The rubber on my burb is all factory and in good shape. Both the gate and lid shut solidly, independent of each other or together, with few rattles. The gate support arms might make a little noise over rough roads, but not too bad around town.
You can't see it all in the photo below, but from the factory the lid has rubber all the way around, and the gate only on three sides. No rubber on top of the gate and no rubber on the body.
Perhaps fresh rubber of the proper shape and in the correct locations could help your situation?

Thanks gents! A set of the correct rubber is in the works for the Burb. I'll bet that'll cure 95% of my problem!

Roy

[Corts60]

Any news on the fitment of new rubber? I am in the process of taking apart my tailgate for painting and I will be needing some help with re-aligning it here in the future.

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by Corts60

Any news on the fitment of new rubber? I am in the process of taking apart my tailgate for painting and I will be needing some help with re-aligning it here in the future.

not yet, still on the back burner . . . got the new steele rubber, but ain't got to it

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by Corts60

Any news on the fitment of new rubber? I am in the process of taking apart my tailgate for painting and I will be needing some help with re-aligning it here in the future.

Well, Finally got the chore of the new rubber done! Spent a fair amount of time getting the old black weatherstripping adhesive off. Used Goo-Gone, worked but slow, but it didn't take off the paint,

The new Steele rubber was a little tight even in 80+ degree weather, had to force it down on the "curves" and low spots to make the contours and stick to the adhesive, could've used an extra person to work from opposite ends. Still need a bit of adjusting of the different latches, but doors halves close without any rattling. I'll post some pictures.