Rear wheels not centered in fender opening

[66farmer]

I don't like seeing my rear wheels not centered or close to it in the rear fender opening. I lowered the rear 6" and moved the bed closer to the cab which added to the off centering of the rear axle in the opening.

Now the question, does someone make a shorter trailing arm for coil springs, not air bags?

Thanks for the help.

[61_FL_Apache]

I would think you can take a section out of the trailing arms. Don't forget to take some from the driveshaft too.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

I would think you can take a section out of the trailing arms. Don't forget to take some from the driveshaft too.

you dont need to (and really shouldnt) section the control arms. move the axle mounting pin forward the required amount and let the extra stick out the back.

I say dont section the trailing arms because they are two pieces of c channel joined in a way to allow them to twist torsionally when one wheel goes up over a bump.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by joedoh

you dont need to (and really shouldnt) section the control arms. move the axle mounting pin forward the required amount and let the extra stick out the back.

I say dont section the trailing arms because they are two pieces of c channel joined in a way to allow them to twist torsionally when one wheel goes up over a bump.

Not knowing all this, I shortened mine & moved my diff'l forward between 1 and 2 inches. Been done about 3 years with no adverse effects. Surely did make it look better!
Sam

[66farmer]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

Not knowing all this, I shortened mine & moved my diff'l forward between 1 and 2 inches. Been done about 3 years with no adverse effects. Surely did make it look better!
Sam

Where in the arms did you shortened them. And is your truck lowered if so how much. Could you post a picture I would really like to see the difference.
Thanks

[66farmer]

I really don't want to move the cross member it would be a PITA plus I think the spring would be misaligned.
I moved the bed forward to make it look better which it did, know I'm paying the price.
I'm going to measure the wheel base. I will post my findings.

ECC emailed me back, they see this a lot in lowered step sides. They would build me shorter arms. I asked where are you making them shorter (spring forward or spring back)

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

Where in the arms did you shortened them. And is your truck lowered if so how much. Could you post a picture I would really like to see the difference.
Thanks

Cut them about 1/3 of distance from spring-seat toward front-mounts. Made new pockets for coil springs, afterwards, to reset rear to a net of about 2.5 inches down--had earlier lowered it 3.0 inches, using springs: did this to help with changing tires, due to fender well clearance, as well as looks. Sorry, do not have pics of before-and-after. The pockets/cups added will make it easy to alter height in future, if desired, by simply swapping different-height cup(s) on the bottom of coils.
Was careful to cut the arms using the common "ZEE-CUT" for strength.
Hope some of this helps.
Sam

[lolife99]

Or move the trailing arm crossmember forward.

[Slow Build]

That's unusual, These trucks naturally have the rear wheels off center toward the front. Something isn't right. What exactly has been done to your trucks suspension and/or frame?

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Slow Build

That's unusual, These trucks naturally have the rear wheels off center toward the front. Something isn't right. What exactly has been done to your trucks suspension and/or frame?

Yeah, mine on my stepside are off centered toward the front.
I suggest he move his early classic crossmember forward.
And then his shaft may also need to be shortened.
But do not cut the trailing arms.
Move the ece crossmember forward.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Yeah, mine on my stepside are off centered toward the front.
I suggest he move his early classic crossmember forward.
And then his shaft may also need to be shortened.
But do not cut the trailing arms.
Move the ece crossmember forward.

I think it was Kieth who suggested putting spacer blocks between front of your trail arms and their x-member--simple way to move your diff'l rearwards.
Sam

[mixermike]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Or move the trailing arm crossmember forward.

I agree

[padresag]

are you trailing arms from the 78?. They may be longer than the 66. the w/base is longer in the 68. looking back at your build thread where it shows your frame and rear axle it does seem to be to far back. it is located at the back of the raised section of the frame section where the axle resides
I do not know whether or not that they are of the same length, but there has to be a reason
ron

[mixermike]

I believe all trailing arms are the same length. The difference between a swb and a lwb is the placement of the crossmember

[66farmer]

I used the stock 66 arms. The only thing I changed was the trailing arm cross member. I used one from Early Classic because is gave more ground clearance for lowered trucks. And yes I installed it correctly.

[66farmer]

I just emailed Early Classic asking them about my problem with attached pictures. I will see what they have to say.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

I used the stock 66 arms. The only thing I changed was the trailing arm cross member. I used one from Early Classic because is gave more ground clearance for lowered trucks. And yes I installed it correctly.

other than having to take the cab off again, looks pretty straight forward, drill some new holes and move the whole unit forward, shorten the driveshaft, but what about the spring mounts?
is the crossmember too far back, and are your springs leaning to the front a little bit?

I agree with the couple of people that said it is safer to move that crossmember than shorten the stock trailing arms

I guess the other question is how close to 115 is your wheelbase right now?

just checked out your build, looks nice!

another thought.. cpp ads that I have seen show aftermarket trailing arms.. I wonder if those could be ordered , or retro fitted for what you need.

[brokenspoke]

Move the bed back

[lolife99]

Moving the trailing arm crossmember forward, would require you to redrill the upper hole in the frame, for the spring retainer bolt.
I don't see that as much of an issue.
Porterbuilt Fabrication makes tubular trailing arm crossmembers with a series of mounting holes to adjust the crossmember forward for the stepside trucks and rearward for the fleetside truck.

[66farmer]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Moving the trailing arm crossmember forward, would require you to redrill the upper hole in the frame, for the spring retainer bolt.
I don't see that as much of an issue.
Porterbuilt Fabrication makes tubular trailing arm crossmembers with a series of mounting holes to adjust the crossmember forward for the stepside trucks and rearward for the fleetside truck.

I talked to Dave at Porterbuilt today he's going to get back to me. I don't want to move the cross member because of the exhaust.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

I talked to Dave at Porterbuilt today he's going to get back to me. I don't want to move the cross member because of the exhaust.

this is probably your best bet, getting them custom made, that way the springs stay in the right spot, and it should just be a bolt in affair... things to think about: the panhard bar (I think its called), will that have to be moved forward as well, and will you have to shorten the drive shaft, or is there enough slip play now that that is not needed? also what about he brake line? will it reach? , or maybe you could just move the mount on that as well.

[66farmer]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

this is probably your best bet, getting them custom made, that way the springs stay in the right spot, and it should just be a bolt in affair... things to think about: the panhard bar (I think its called), will that have to be moved forward as well, and will you have to shorten the drive shaft, or is there enough slip play now that that is not needed? also what about he brake line? will it reach? , or maybe you could just move the mount on that as well.

The panhard bar and the upper shock mounts will have to be moved. And the drive line will have to be shortened. The brake line should be easy move.

I was going to remove the bed anyway this winter to do a C notch. I want to lower the rear just a little more.
I guess I just can't stop working on this truck. (I think I need to see a doctor)

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

The panhard bar and the upper shock mounts will have to be moved. And the drive line will have to be shortened. The brake line should be easy move.

I was going to remove the bed anyway this winter to do a C notch. I want to lower the rear just a little more.
I guess I just can't stop working on this truck. (I think I need to see a doctor)

You said, "I guess I just can't stop working on this truck. (I think I need to see a doctor)". Well, I think most of us will agree that these trucks are ALWAYS a work in progress; and whenever a 'new' idea pops into mind, our trucks are the ready outlet for the inspiration!
Sam

[old cruiser]

Reposition guards would be the simple answer if you don't want to move the whole bed back. Just a thought

[pdxhall]

Moving drivetrain components sounds like a bunch of work to an already superb chassis. Maybe pick up a couple of fenders and experiment with moving the wheel openings. I've seen it done on front fenders, I would think it could be done on rear step fenders.