Edelbrock Carb

[jrigheimer]

Getting a new carburetor and I'm pretty set on a 1406 edelbrock preformer carb. I have a 1972 c10, short bed, 350, th400 transmission and I am confused about throttle linkage, with I need to buy a bracket or will the
original cable fit. Will the bracket need a kickdown stud for the th400 or no, I'm getting mixed answers.

Carb http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1406/10002/-1

New Fuel line and adapter http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2697/10002/-1

Thanks

[jrigheimer]

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co.../photo_08.html

bm kit

[scrappy's 69]

If you have the throttle rod you will need to get the throttle rod stud, which will mate the rod to the carb. I just installed this same carb on my 69. I purchased the rod stud and had to drill the hole for the rod out just a little. It makes for a clean install.

[gale]

Originally Posted by jrigheimer

Getting a new carburetor and I'm pretty set on a 1406 edelbrock preformer carb.

I have one I plan to clean up and list on eBay tomorrow.

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by jrigheimer

Getting a new carburetor and I'm pretty set on a 1406 edelbrock preformer carb. I have a 1972 c10, short bed, 350, th400 transmission and I am confused about throttle linkage, with I need to buy a bracket or will the
original cable fit. Will the bracket need a kickdown stud for the th400 or no, I'm getting mixed answers.

Carb http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1406/10002/-1

New Fuel line and adapter http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2697/10002/-1

Thanks

You will have to have a ball stud on the carb but your cable should work, on the kick down switch yours should be under the pedal in the cab

[CC69Rat]

I dont want to sway your decision, but take a look at their carb spacer and the Edelbrock fuel pump too. A stock pump has too much fuel pressure for this carb and will cause it to leak gas down into the intake. Hard Starting issues, etc. If you dont run their pump, you will need to have a fuel pressure regulator. The Edelbrocks like 4-6psi, a stock pump is around 9psi.

Honestly man, I'd look at another carb. Just my opinion, results may vary and I respect that.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=516736

Post #47

[leddzepp]

Your OEM cable will work just fine, and your kickdown should be on the gas pedal as stated above. I have run Edelbrock carbs on everything I have ever owned. Zero complaints and I have never used a pressure regulator or a non-OEM fuel pump.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Your OEM cable will work just fine, and your kickdown should be on the gas pedal as stated above. I have run Edelbrock carbs on everything I have ever owned. Zero complaints and I have never used a pressure regulator or a non-OEM fuel pump.

Same here. I've had a long string of Edelbrock carbs on my different trucks over the years. Every one with a normal parts store brand mechanical fuel pimp, and I've never owned a fuel pressure regulator in my life. Just lots of happy miles driving with those carbs.

[CC69Rat]

^^ Who asked you anyway ?

[engineer_gregh]

I've got a 71 small block with the 1406 and a big block with the 1407. Biggest problem right out of the box was float level. Once I opened up the carbs and set the float level they ran much better. Chad is right about the fuel pressure, I couldn't get a decent idle on the big block until I installed an Edelbrock fuel pump. The small block runs fine with the stock mechanical. You do not have a kick down cable at the carb with a Turbo 400.

[Mick Je]

engineer_gregh,
What did you set the float level to? Did you do the 7/16 gap like how Edelbrock recommends or something different? I have a 650 AVS edelbrock carb on my 402 big block 70 GMC.

[NoNeck]

Maybe you guys that have never had a problem with the Edelbrocks already had low pressure (or worn) fuel pumps, so your fuel pressure was low enough.

I too had an Edelbrock 1407 on a big block F*RD and every time I stopped with the engine off for a few minutes I fought a hard start situation. I found out through a Holley friend of mine that if your fuel pressure is above 7 to 8 PSI those fuel metering rods will stay "open". After a few minutes, the intake valley is soaked with gas which causes a flooded start up.

I installed an Edelbrock fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator set at 6 PSi and no more problems. If you can run an Edelbrock right out of the box, congratulations! I would buy a Holley over an "Evilbrock" any day.

But then I am old school, too.

POP

[engineer_gregh]

Hi Mick. I used the ruler that came with the rebuild kit to set the floats at 7/16, I've since acquired a 7/16 drill bit to use going forward, much easier to use the drill bit trick:-). To Pop's points above about flooding the intake valley; that would explain the gas smell in my garage every time I park. Maybe I still need a regulator even though I'm running the Edelbrock pump.

[Mick Je]

My carb is fine but it has a minor hesitate some times on leaving from a stop and making right and left turns. So I was going to check the float level, everything else has been adjusted.

[leddzepp]

I've run edelbrocks right out of the box...and after sitting 10 years on a shelf. New fuel pump, old fuel pump, made no difference either way. No problems ever. Maybe I'm just lucky. Debating carbs is like beating a dead horse. People use whatever works for them.

[67 cst swb]

All you guys not running a regulator to limit the fuel pressure to below 6 psi are the lucky exceptions to the norm.
I highly recommend running either a fuel regulator or a fuel pump with 6 psi or less.
I have sold these Edelbrock carbs for years, the number of people that got away with not running a regulator is pretty low in number.
As far as the Carburetor itself.... READ THE TUNING MANUAL!!! and be patient.

[CC69Rat]

Didn't mean to stir, .. just trying to put varying experiences out there and possibly save the original poster some headaches. It may be fine .. and like I said, not trying to sway a decision. Just sayin.. I wouldn't buy another one.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

What about the intake manifold? If you are using the stock manifold, you will need an adapter.

[BLT gmc]

The fuel inlet for the Edelbrock is a barb type fitting, pointing to the passenger inner fender from the right side of the carb towards the rear. I did not like the bend in the rubber 3/8 fuel hose. Please take a look at Summit part number SUM-G1532 or EDL-8126.
Good luck, Bruce

[MidLifer]

Wow this is the first I've read about the fuel pump issue and explains a lot. I have the 1400 (which is a 1406 with an extra vacuum port on it for smog options) and a stock fuel pump, and on a hot engine I often smell gas after I shut it off.

The other issue I've had with my carb is that it is being finicky about the low vacuum I get with my cam. I probably need to break down and spend some time with springs and jets, I even bought the jet kit this winter, but have been too lazy to do the work.

In the collective opinion is it worth $125 to buy an Edelbrock fuel pump?

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by MidLifer

Wow this is the first I've read about the fuel pump issue and explains a lot. I have the 1400 (which is a 1406 with an extra vacuum port on it for smog options) and a stock fuel pump, and on a hot engine I often smell gas after I shut it off.

The other issue I've had with my carb is that it is being finicky about the low vacuum I get with my cam. I probably need to break down and spend some time with springs and jets, I even bought the jet kit this winter, but have been too lazy to do the work.

In the collective opinion is it worth $125 to buy an Edelbrock fuel pump?

That's not a fuel pressure issue. That's a percolation issue. The float bowl of the Edlebrock carb is located right in the middle of the main carb body. It's right over the hot engine. When you shut the truck off, the heat rises from the engine and percolates the fuel in the bowl. A thin phenolic spacer will cure it guaranteed. It will also cure the obligatory hot start issue that dry fuel bowls cause. Been there and done that several times. Now I just automatically install the little insulator spacer when I install the carb the first time.

Note a Holley type of carb don't have this issue since their bowls are hanging off of the center carb body and surrounded by ambient air.

I'm with ledzepp on this one. My history of Edelbrock carburetors includes new and used, everything from out of the box to the bottom of some swap meet junk pile. They've all operated nicely and made me real happy with generic parts store fuel pumps and no regulator.

[FOSTER21]

IMO there's a reason why Holley's cost more.

[jmking9]

I would highly recommend the phenolic spacer with an Eddy carb also. I've ran several of them over the years, and that spacer ALWAYS gets rid of any hot start issues. Also, for what its worth, I too have never needed a regulator on any of mine.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That's not a fuel pressure issue. That's a percolation issue. The float bowl of the Edlebrock carb is located right in the middle of the main carb body. .

Not on any Eddy carb i've seen Tx. Floats (2 of them) in bowls(2 of them) on the sides of the carb. Not in the middle like a quadrajet.

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That's not a fuel pressure issue. That's a percolation issue. The float bowl of the Edlebrock carb is located right in the middle of the main carb body. It's right over the hot engine. When you shut the truck off, the heat rises from the engine and percolates the fuel in the bowl. A thin phenolic spacer will cure it guaranteed. It will also cure the obligatory hot start issue that dry fuel bowls cause. Been there and done that several times. Now I just automatically install the little insulator spacer when I install the carb the first time.

Note a Holley type of carb don't have this issue since their bowls are hanging off of the center carb body and surrounded by ambient air.

I'm with ledzepp on this one. My history of Edelbrock carburetors includes new and used, everything from out of the box to the bottom of some swap meet junk pile. They've all operated nicely and made me real happy with generic parts store fuel pumps and no regulator.

Seconded on the phenolic spacer. I had the same issue with a 1406 on a mild SBC. Generic part store mech. fuel pump as well with no issues.

I used the cheap "Spectre" linkage/kickdown bracket that they sell at most autoparts stores. Worked well for years.

edit: I went to a summit brand electric pump when I swapped a BBC due to vapor lock issues in the SW heat. I used a cheap Holley regulator (may have been summit brand, but it was stamped holley on the part) with the gauge. That also worked well. If memory serves it was around $20 several years ago.