Where do I cut this fender?

[saxart]

I'm going to be starting the repair of this passenger side front fender cup, and I'm curious where to make the cuts on the original fender. Should I keep the replacement part whole and cut the fender to fit it, or should I only cut the rust off the fender, then trim down the patch panel to fit?



After looking at the backside, it looks like the bolt-holes in the patch panel would make a nice place to take measurements from, then transfer those measurements to the original fender.



Any thoughts or experience is appreciated. (Sorry for the blurry pics, I'm not sure how that happened.)

[Jcfcamaro]

I'd cut it just below the body line if possible

[Barnfind46]

Others will chime in but I would run a tape line about 1/2 " below the strait body crease and trim the fender there. Tape the patch piece 1/4" below the strait body crease and tuck the 1/4" extra of the patch piece under the fender. Some trimming of each end may be necessary as they will not tuck.The ends will be a butt weld but the rest will be over lap. Now that I have probably confused every one it is easier to show than to explain.I have done restoration for over thirty years but I am a better doer that teacher. I also assume that you may not have a punch/flange tool. Take careful measurements and you should do fine.

[Jcfcamaro]

This is where I would cut it so you have easy access to weld and hide with filler.

[Warrens69GMC]

I agree with the posters above. about 1/2" below the bodyline

[bill3rail]

Definitely do not cut fender to match part dimensions. Cut part to meet the fender cuts.

[saxart]

Thought I'd update this thread to show how it worked out. I used a piece of masking tape to bring the body line down 3/4" and made the cut. It worked great!



Here it is in primer. Needs a little filler on the weld joints, but otherwise pretty good.



Thanks again for the help!

[Jcfcamaro]

Looks good

[GR8-68]

Looks good but may I ask how you ended up with a vertical weld also ?

[72 tigger]

Looks really good! The vertical cut is to "stretch" the repair cup- they're to short

[68is4me]

looks good. I just went through the exact same thing. I ordered 2 cups from 2 different venders and both were to short. I had to lengthen mine just like yours. Also make sure that it fits in the front core support I had to do some cutting on the inside pocket to fit the support correctly.

[67ChevyRedneck]

It looks like you had to make some extra slices too.

I tried to use as little as possible because it fit like tee total crap.





But I now have a solid fender that fits.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

It looks like you had to make some extra slices too.

I tried to use as little as possible because it fit like tee total crap.





But I now have a solid fender that fits.

I cut mine where the factory molding on my '68 goes instead of using the whole piece. As far as front to back, I just cut the from radius loose from the backing and made up the distance with one cut on the rear. The molding covers all but just a few inches on the front behind the bumper when installed.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I was actually referring to the OP

It looks like he had to split his horizontally and vertically.

[kxmotox247]

Just for the record... tooling still hasn't been fixed on the fender cup patches. It's about 1/2" too short. The second picture is a cup from another stock fender. Both were cut about 1" below the body line.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

Just for the record... tooling still hasn't been fixed on the fender cup patches. It's about 1/2" too short. The second picture is a cup from another stock fender. Both were cut about 1" below the body line.

This is a Good thread.
Very good input from OP and others.
I have been subbed for Awhile.
Glad to see it brought to the top.


Those are good reference pictures.
I hope to fix mine soon.



.

[tigerchevelle]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

Just for the record... tooling still hasn't been fixed on the fender cup patches. It's about 1/2" too short. The second picture is a cup from another stock fender. Both were cut about 1" below the body line.

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[tigerchevelle]

Wow,I have to pay to post for an item I'd like to buy?
Never had to do that on the other forums that I'm registered on.
Think I'll go to another forum.
Thanks.

[kingsolver72]

Originally Posted by tigerchevelle

Wow,I have to pay to post for an item I'd like to buy?
Never had to do that on the other forums that I'm registered on.
Think I'll go to another forum.
Thanks.

Not true. You can go to the the classifieds and buy what you need there. No charge other than the purchase price. It’s pretty cool how that works.

I type too slow.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by tigerchevelle

Wow,I have to pay to post for an item I'd like to buy?
Never had to do that on the other forums that I'm registered on.
Think I'll go to another forum.
Thanks.

It's called "paying to subscribe" so you can initiate a sale and we have a parts forum intended for just that purpose, not here. It's been that way since '05 or so, way before you clicked "agree" to the board policies in Oct '13 six years ago. Since this is the largest online community for the ever popular 67-72 GM Trucks in the world, and the first search result for such, we have been targeted by scammers who would pop in, list a few items for sale, money sent to them, then it's seeya! By requiring a mere $25 a year subscription (6 mo. term available for less) it has worked quite well to curb such activity. Those guys tend to go to those other sites you seem to hold in such high regard. You are welcome... to stay, but if you really feel that strongly about leaving, all I can say is have at it. Why not stick around and keep an eye on the parts board. But I suggest you go back and read the terms you agreed to before you run into any more surprises.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

Just for the record... tooling still hasn't been fixed on the fender cup patches. It's about 1/2" too short. The second picture is a cup from another stock fender. Both were cut about 1" below the body line.

Can you show pictures of how to fill or stretch the patch panel with a cut to make up for that 1/2"?

[CG]

In the for sale area there is no problem with you buying anything listed for sale and not being a subscriber. You cant list an item for sale or list a specific request to buy something if you are a non subscriber.

All sales on the board are supposed to go through the for sale area to avoid bad deals and shady happenings that used to happen before that rule was implemented years ago. So no sales or WTB's in other areas of the board whether you are a subscriber or not.

[landarts]

Here is how I recently did this about two weeks ago on the 68 Second Chance Build. Had to add additional 1/2 of material on both sides of fender cup. One of the things I did that made it easier to work on was tack weld a small temporary piece of metal on the bottom so that it would not twist or change in size. You can see it in the first two photos.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by landarts

Here is how I recently did this about two weeks ago on the 68 Second Chance Build. Had to add additional 1/2 of material on both sides of fender cup. One of the things I did that made it easier to work on was tack weld a small temporary piece of metal on the bottom so that it would not twist or change in size. You can see it in the first two photos.

Once you have that 1/2" wide cut open like that, what do you use to fill it in? Do you take a strip of sheet metal and bend it by hand to fit?

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Once you have that 1/2" wide cut open like that, what do you use to fill it in? Do you take a strip of sheet metal and bend it by hand to fit?

I would take a template and cut it out of the cup you just cut out, if its in good enough shape.