What drop you think this is?

[Slowguy]

This truck is for sale on eBay. I contacted the seller asking but he didn’t know. He said it was done by the previous owner. Do you think this is a tad more than a 4/6 drop? That’s what I had planned for mine but this looks like it could be lower. I’m in a search for these wheels now he said they are 22” transport wheels. One last thing...do you think the lip of the wheel is painted white or is that an actual whitewall?

[demian5]

You should have posted a link to the ad as well.

[Slowguy]

Never know if it’s allowed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Chevro...95199?var=null

[BugzC10]

it could be close to a 4/6 drop, the 22” wheels gives it the ground clearance. And yes the rims look to have the edge paint white. Probably rides like a rock with the low profile tires. ....But it looks cool.

[1968 baby blue C10]

Maybe it’s just the angle but to me it looks like it has too much rake to be a 4/6 drop. Maybe 4/5?
I personally wouldn’t feel comfortable with that much drop in the front with just cut coils, especially with 22s. That has to ride horrendous.

[Slowguy]

Ok. So if I want that look but an “okay” ride how would I get it? Would I need air? That’s two comments saying the ride must be terrible and I definitely don’t want that. It sure looks cool though.

[1968 baby blue C10]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

Ok. So if I want that look but an “okay” ride how would I get it? Would I need air? That’s two comments saying the ride must be terrible and I definitely don’t want that. It sure looks cool though.

Mine is lowered with two inch drop spindles, which also gives you disk brakes in the front, and 2 inch lowering springs when combined gives you 4 inch drop. The rear is lowered with 6 inch springs and the shocks have been relocated. Mine rides like a Cadillac. People say it will ride better if you you do 4 inch springs in the rear, and 2 inch blocks though.

[Slowguy]

Originally Posted by 1968 baby blue C10

Mine is lowered with two inch drop spindles, which also gives you disk brakes in the front, and 2 inch lowering springs when combined gives you 4 inch drop. The rear is lowered with 6 inch springs and the shocks have been relocated. Mine rides like a Cadillac. People say it will ride better if you you do 4 inch springs in the rear, and 2 inch blocks though.

Yeah. That’s exactly what I decided earlier. With the right amount of rubber I’m sure it’d ride great. Those saying it’ll ride rough I think it’s because the lack of sidewall?....not necessarily the lowering kit?

[1968 baby blue C10]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

Yeah. That’s exactly what I decided earlier. With the right amount of rubber I’m sure it’d ride great. Those saying it’ll ride rough I think it’s because the lack of sidewall?....not necessarily the lowering kit?

Yeah the 22s is the biggest factor for sure. Mine has 15 inch rally’s on it. But I can stand on the rear bumper and bounce the truck like it’s a Cadillac.
The cut coils and factory location shocks on the truck from eBay would hurt the ride pretty bad. With quality lowering components even with bigger wheels it should still ride really good even by today’s standards. My truck rides better than any other truck I’ve been in, modern two wheel drives don’t even compare.

[demian5]

Looks like it had add-on whitewalls.

[rjs53]

4-6 seems to be the way to go. The guys that have it and like the ride may not have 22" wheels.

[Slowguy]

I was thinking of doing the 4/6 drop kit along with front disks and a brake booster from early classics. They said they’d do it as a kit price. I like the idea of kits since I’m new to this but they made no mention of relocating the read shocks which I’ve heard a bunch about it being necessary when lowering.

[1968 baby blue C10]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

I was thinking of doing the 4/6 drop kit along with front disks and a brake booster from early classics. They said they’d do it as a kit price. I like the idea of kits since I’m new to this but they made no mention of relocating the read shocks which I’ve heard a bunch about it being necessary when lowering.

I don’t have much experience with it myself, my truck was already lowered when I bought it. I just know what I’ve learned from researching what was done to mine. Relocating your shocks isn’t “necessary” per say but your ride quality will suffer if you don’t. You can buy drop shocks that are shorter but it won’t ride as well as relocated factory length. Mine aren’t relocated to outside the frame but the angle is changed. I believe mine is the CPP kit. It cost less than most kits and seemed to work really well on mine.

[BugzC10]

I have 2.5” drop spindles + 2” drop springs up front and 4” drop coil springs + 2” blocks in the rear. ...still has a slight rake. Don't know how 22” would fit...

[1968 baby blue C10]

Originally Posted by BugzC10

I have 2.5” drop spindles + 2” drop springs up front and 4” drop coil springs + 2” blocks in the rear. ...still has a slight rake. Don't know how 22” would fit...

What size wheels and tires are you running?
This is mine, 4/6 with 275/60-15 on 15x10s on the rear and 255/60-15 on 15x8s on the front.

[BugzC10]

Originally Posted by 1968 baby blue C10

What size wheels and tires are you running?
This is mine, 4/6 with 275/60-15 on 15x10s on the rear and 255/60-15 on 15x8s on the front.

I'm running the same tire in the rear, but with 15x8 rims and 235/70-15 tire on 18x6.5 in the front. I went with the 235s for extra LCA ground clearance.

[Slowguy]

In your second picture it does look awful close to the truck in question. I didn’t think a 4/6 drop would tuck the tops of the tires at all but I guess it does now.

[Slowguy]

I was considering doing those transporter wheels with 265 35 22’s. I hope it doesn’t ride super rough. I get the relocating bracket for the rear shocks for sure then. I don’t mind a bit tight but would hate to drive much if it jars your teeth over every bump. I’ve had plenty of 35 series tire on my sports cars and it wasn’t terrible but I’m sure there’s a big difference in a Porsche/Audi/vette 35 series ride than a 67 c10 with the same amount of rubber. I guess only trying it will give me the answer.

I also hope 265 will give me enough width with posi in the rear to grip somewhat. Call me nuts but I’m on my way to a “mild” ls turbo build that should put about 550-600 to the pavement. I’m not about launching it like crazy, I just want the power and grip so that at 70 mph, you floor it and say, “holy sh*t, this thing is strong”

[1968 baby blue C10]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

I was considering doing those transporter wheels with 265 35 22’s. I hope it doesn’t ride super rough. I get the relocating bracket for the rear shocks for sure then. I don’t mind a bit tight but would hate to drive much if it jars your teeth over every bump. I’ve had plenty of 35 series tire on my sports cars and it wasn’t terrible but I’m sure there’s a big difference in a Porsche/Audi/vette 35 series ride than a 67 c10 with the same amount of rubber. I guess only trying it will give me the answer.

I also hope 265 will give me enough width with posi in the rear to grip somewhat. Call me nuts but I’m on my way to a “mild” ls turbo build that should put about 550-600 to the pavement. I’m not about launching it like crazy, I just want the power and grip so that at 70 mph, you floor it and say, “holy sh*t, this thing is strong”

Really no matter what you do it should ride better than a corvette for sure. Mine rides leagues better than my 02 Impreza and really close to my 98 Civic EX with factory stance and larger sidewall tires than it should have. The trailing arm suspension on these trucks in my opinion is the ultimate for a soft ride, especially on trucks.

You might send hewittca a private message, I know he has transporter wheels and is planning on going lower than you and I. He’s a really cool guy, I’m sure he would tell you how they ride.

[hewittca]

I have transits on my truck and am after a similar stance. I'd say that truck is at a 6" drop all around and definitely those are painted lips. The photo of my truck below is where it's at now. It's a 4/7 drop. I still have to add drop spindles and blocks which will bring it to a 6.5/8 drop. The truck in question most likely has 2.5" drop spindles with 3-4" springs. That's a large drop for springs but it is doable with some modifications and attention to details, specifically alignment issues. In the rear, it probably has 4" springs and 2" blocks. I have the same plus a 2.5" z'ed frame which allows me to get the rear lower for a more level look. Usually you want the rear 2" lower if you prefer the leveled stance. For front tires I run 265/35 which are probably what's on all 4 corners of the above truck. For the rear, I wanted something a bit larger so I went with 285/40s. Overall, the truck rides really nicely. Sure, there is the occasional unavoidable bump that really jars the truck, but if you like the look then it just takes the conscious effort in knowing what you've got and its limitations. The nice thing too is w/ the 22s you can really lower it down quite a bit like this and still maintain decent ground clearance. I think my lower control arms will still be 3-4" off the ground at a 6.5" drop up front.