Junction box 4 amp fuse problem - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72K10 · 12-08-2002, 03:46 PM

I think I've gotten most of my electrical problems fixed, but I'm still blowing the short 4 amp fuse between the battery and the junction box (small post on firewall next to battery). I've had the pickup 4 years and have never gotten the 4 amp fuse to work. Even after replacing the engine, alternator, regulator, battery, reworking the fuse box, new headlight switch, new horn relay, HEI, new dimmer switch etc., I still can't keep that fuse from blowing. I put a 30 amp fuse in it, and it works,but?? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Chris

Johns70 · 12-08-2002, 04:28 PM

If i remeber right that fuse feeds somthing with the ignition,maybe you added somthing on there that draws to many amps for that fuse.

jhow66 · 12-08-2002, 10:50 PM

This wire goes to one side of your amp gauge--there is another fuse just like this on other side of rad. that goes to other side of amp gauge. Does your gauge work? Check both wires to see if they are shorted some where.

TERRYP · 12-09-2002, 03:05 AM

If you ever remove the dash with the battery connected, you will almost always blow the fuse by the firewall. Get a standard length fuse holder and put in a 10 amp fuse at least. The wiring will withstand at least 25 amps.

72K10 · 12-09-2002, 10:47 AM

After consulting a couple of wiring diagrams, my question now is whether there should even be a fuse between the battery and junction terminal. Looks like both fuses are supposed to go between the junction box and the ammeter / cab, as jhow66 pointed out. Is the wire between the junction box and the battery actually supposed to be a solid 10 guage wire, as it shows in one of my wiring diagrams? Anyone with original setup care to comment? Thanks.

jhow66 · 12-09-2002, 12:57 PM

That is the way mine is hooked. You could put a # 12 fuse link here (2 sizes smaller than wire size) and the whole system would be protected from shorts like later models had on the starter.

jhow66 · 12-09-2002, 12:59 PM

sorry--that should be a # 14 link

12-08-2002, 03:46 PM	#1
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	Junction box 4 amp fuse problem I think I've gotten most of my electrical problems fixed, but I'm still blowing the short 4 amp fuse between the battery and the junction box (small post on firewall next to battery). I've had the pickup 4 years and have never gotten the 4 amp fuse to work. Even after replacing the engine, alternator, regulator, battery, reworking the fuse box, new headlight switch, new horn relay, HEI, new dimmer switch etc., I still can't keep that fuse from blowing. I put a 30 amp fuse in it, and it works,but?? Any ideas? Thanks, Chris __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super

12-08-2002, 04:28 PM	#2
Johns70 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spring Creek, nevada. U.S.A. Posts: 456	If i remeber right that fuse feeds somthing with the ignition,maybe you added somthing on there that draws to many amps for that fuse. __________________ 69 chevy short wide box project 70 GMC jimmy project

12-08-2002, 10:50 PM	#3
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	4 amp This wire goes to one side of your amp gauge--there is another fuse just like this on other side of rad. that goes to other side of amp gauge. Does your gauge work? Check both wires to see if they are shorted some where. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

12-09-2002, 03:05 AM	#4
TERRYP GYRO GEARLOOSE Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA Posts: 361	If you ever remove the dash with the battery connected, you will almost always blow the fuse by the firewall. Get a standard length fuse holder and put in a 10 amp fuse at least. The wiring will withstand at least 25 amps. __________________ Nevada City, CA Everett, Washington 57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd 66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.07 rear ratio, restoring 68 C10 LWB 350 4spd, 4.56 rear dump runner 82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4 84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna 85 Tercel SW, snow runner DISGRACED OUTLAW MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB

12-09-2002, 10:47 AM	#5
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	After consulting a couple of wiring diagrams, my question now is whether there should even be a fuse between the battery and junction terminal. Looks like both fuses are supposed to go between the junction box and the ammeter / cab, as jhow66 pointed out. Is the wire between the junction box and the battery actually supposed to be a solid 10 guage wire, as it shows in one of my wiring diagrams? Anyone with original setup care to comment? Thanks. __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super

12-09-2002, 12:57 PM	#6
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	wire That is the way mine is hooked. You could put a # 12 fuse link here (2 sizes smaller than wire size) and the whole system would be protected from shorts like later models had on the starter. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

12-09-2002, 12:59 PM	#7
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	fuse link sorry--that should be a # 14 link __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

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