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Old 12-03-2010, 11:36 PM   #26
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

CCP adjustable bar 49 bucks done deal.
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:34 PM   #27
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Here is another version of the same .
I used left over parts from the 64 tie rods from when I changed crossmembers.
I used the stub from the Inner tie rod 5/8-18 RH and the adjuster, cut off the eye from the 64 track bar and welded the tie rod stub onto it.
Turned threads (5/8-18 LH) on the end of the track bar from the 64, welded a big nut right in the middle for a easy turning nut, (I drilled out the threads in the nut so it would slip on the adjuster.
Made a new bracket for the rear of the trailing arm
Total outlay of Cash was the 13 bucks for the Energy Suspension bushings
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:37 PM   #28
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

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Size:  30.3 KB Just left over tie rod stuff

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Old 01-16-2011, 01:51 AM   #29
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

That's a great idea, and good use of leftover parts
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:52 PM   #30
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Great Thread!
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Old 01-20-2011, 12:00 AM   #31
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Is there someplace to buy just the mounting bracket that bolts to the trackbar?
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:29 PM   #32
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

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It was not that hard to make the bracket, just two pieces of flat bar and a gusset at the end to hold them together. The U bolts will squeeze it tight and hold it. There is no real force on this bar unless you are into drifting or sliding corners
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:30 PM   #33
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba327 View Post
Attachment 686548
It was not that hard to make the bracket, just two pieces of flat bar and a gusset at the end to hold them together. The U bolts will squeeze it tight and hold it. There is no real force on this bar unless you are into drifting or sliding corners
That looks nice and clean.
Great job.

Did you put a piece of stock of the same thickness as a spacer on the other trailing arm?
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Last edited by LostMy65; 01-22-2011 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:58 PM   #34
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

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That looks nice and clean.
Great job.

Did you put a piece of stock of the same thickness as a spacer on the other trailing arm?
Yes , I just used a piece of 1/4 flat bar on the top of other side just to keep things even. Is no need to put it on the bottom
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Last edited by bubba327; 01-22-2011 at 11:59 PM. Reason: added text
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:05 AM   #35
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Great!

I'll have all the needed parts, when I swap out my complete 66 front suspension with the one I got from a 79
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Old 04-16-2011, 04:46 PM   #36
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

I pulled the truck out of the shop to work on some other stuff today and was out basking in the sunshine enjoying looking at the truck.

So I got to looking and doing some measuring. Right now the tires are perfectly centered, as checked by measuring from the tire to the frame on both sides. And both sides measure the same.

The drive shaft however is off center in the crossmember. 5/16" clearance on the passenger side, 7/8" clearance on the drivers side, as shown in this photo.


As the truck sits now the track bar is level. That means as the suspension goes up or down the 5/16" clearance will increase.

Based on that I don't see a need for an adjustable track bar. I wouldn't want to "adjust" the rear axle location to center the driveshaft in the crossmember, 'cause that will mess up the tires, 'cause now they are perfectly centered.

So, I am wondering ... those of you guys with stock drivetrains, is the driveshaft centered in the crossmember, or is it biased toward the passenger side?
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Old 04-16-2011, 05:28 PM   #37
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Which is biased out of center on your truck, the motor or the rear axle?? Is the opening of the crossmember equal on both sides??
Well,,,, It is giving your U-joints some motion....
My drive line is pretty well centered I adjusted my track bar with the load on the tires. the wheels are exactly the same distance from the frame.
A 4-wheel alignment could tell if the frame was bent or rear axle was dog tracking to one side
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Last edited by bubba327; 04-16-2011 at 05:41 PM. Reason: added picture and text
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:06 PM   #38
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba327 View Post
Which is biased out of center on your truck, the motor or the rear axle?? Is the opening of the crossmember equal on both sides??
Thanks for the post.... Can't be the rear axle, like I said previously the tire to frame clearance is identical on both sides. Crossmember is stock, still riveted as per factory. Might be the motor / tranny... never really checked it.

Anybody else care to post? Those of you guys with stock drivetrains, and with stock non-adjustable track bars, is the driveshaft centered in the crossmember, or is it biased toward the passenger side?

Last edited by lakeroadster; 04-16-2011 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:58 AM   #39
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

I don't recall how the driveshaft on my Suburban is......it's been months since I've driven it. However keep in mind that the pinion is offset from the center of the differential towards the passenger side. I don't recall the exact amount but it is offset.
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:06 AM   #40
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

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However keep in mind that the pinion is offset from the center of the differential towards the passenger side. I don't recall the exact amount but it is offset.
Interesting..... I measured my truck and the pinion is offset toward the passenger side by 1 inch.

Also measured location of the opening in the crossmember that the driveshaft passes through. It is centered.

Doing the math (see sketch below) this means that, as designed by GM, if the rear end is centered the drive shaft would be off center in the crossmember opening by about 0.30".

I don't see the need for an adjustable track arm, at least in my case based on the above.
  • The rear axle now sits centered in the frame,
  • The driveshaft clearance is 5/16" and the clearance will increase as the axle moves up and down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba327 View Post
Which is biased out of center on your truck, the motor or the rear axle?? Is the opening of the crossmember equal on both sides??
Well,,,, It is giving your U-joints some motion....
My drive line is pretty well centered I adjusted my track bar with the load on the tires. the wheels are exactly the same distance from the frame.
A 4-wheel alignment could tell if the frame was bent or rear axle was dog tracking to one side
Evidently, since the rear pinion is offset by an inch, the drive shaft shouldn't be centered in the crossmember unless either the rear axle isn't centered, or the tranny isn't centered.

One thing to note: The above data and the sketch below are for a short bed truck. For a long bed truck the built in offset of the driveshaft in the crossmember will be less since the rear axle is farther from the crossmember.
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Last edited by lakeroadster; 04-17-2011 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:55 PM   #41
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

I will do some measuring today and post results.
Now the only reason I went with the adjustable track bar was that I changed rear axles.
Mine is not lowered and I did not need the adjustable length.
I had a 3.73 ratio axle which was removed in favor of a 3.07 from a 69. both are 12 bolt ,6 lug and same length , but the track bar mounts were different.
I choose to build the adjustable in case I miscalculated the length (screwed up) and needed to fix it easily.:lol
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:19 PM   #42
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

All pinion/ rear axle are offset,,,nature of the beast, the new ford nines used in the explorer are are offset 2.5 inches....
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Old 04-18-2011, 08:09 AM   #43
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

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All pinion/ rear axle are offset,,,nature of the beast, the new ford nines used in the explorer are are offset 2.5 inches....
True... but some manufacturers made axle shafts different lengths, left vs. right, in order to center the drive shaft. Not saying that is a good idea, just saying all drive shafts are not offset.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:02 AM   #44
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

I`ll have to look at mine today and let you know what clearances I have, stock rear...but... I had spun the truck around on the freeway one day when a mishap happened if front of me, put the truck against a curb facing the opposite direction, rim damage had occured, thats the reason I`m not running the slots anymore.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:34 AM   #45
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

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I`ll have to look at mine today and let you know what clearances I have, stock rear...but... I had spun the truck around on the freeway one day when a mishap happened if front of me, put the truck against a curb facing the opposite direction, rim damage had occured, thats the reason I`m not running the slots anymore.
Holy Frijoles!!! I bet that was exciting! Like to have a video of that, eh?

If you could take a look at the drive shaft to crossmember opening clearances that would be great. Not a big deal, just curious at this point.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:13 AM   #46
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

serious seat stains, it all happened in slow motion,,,, rear axle measurements I just double checked, wheel to frame out side are identicle side to side, driveshaft tunnel right side 1/2 inch vs left side 1 inch.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:45 AM   #47
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Note the differances they way the cab sits against the crossmember lakeroaster`s vs Bubba`s .....something differant here, high hump vs low hump..maybe..
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:51 PM   #48
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

Quote:
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Note the differances they way the cab sits against the crossmember lakeroaster`s vs Bubba`s .....something differant here, high hump vs low hump..maybe..
I think it is just the angle the pictures were taken from... Bubba's is a '64, mine is a '65 therefore they should be the same.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:36 AM   #49
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

I used the stock bar. I just relocated one of the mounting holes. Been like that for 10 years... no issues, runs smooth and straight...
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:58 PM   #50
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Re: Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?



$59.00 from truck and car shop
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