Rod knock on an engine with 4000 miles??????

[highperf4x4]

It's all good monte. I just didn't want to confuse youngster while he figures out his troubles!

[americanmusc1e]

OK, put another pushrod in it and changed the lifter on #2 exhaust. took it for a test drive. Before, the motor started making noises at 2500, Now, It'll rev up to 4000 before I start to hear noises. Before this problem, my Oil pressure was about 20psi at Idle, 40-50 at cruise and about 75 max. Now, Its 0psi at Idle, 10-20 at cruise, and about 40 max.

I think the noise will go away if I put a new cam in.
But, I don't think the oil pressure will improve.

my Dads 1980 jeep with a 4.6 I6 has had 0psi at Idle ever since it was new, he took it in to the dealer and they said it was normal. but I don't think a SBC is supposed to run with 0 oil pressure at Idle.

[monte0185]

Your bottom end is toast and the longer you run it the worse its gonna get and may even make the block unusable if something comes apart. I would go ahead and pull it and salvage what you can now. just my .02 worth.

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by monte0185

Your bottom end is toast and the longer you run it the worse its gonna get and may even make the block unusable if something comes apart. I would go ahead and pull it and salvage what you can now. just my .02 worth.

ditto,

if you throw a rod you'll probably ruin the crank and the block both. You'll also be taking a chance on hitting the head or the valves with a piston too. It's time to start over and get it right.

[chevymad]

Put in my 3d on this too. Quit driving it and take it out before its all trash.

We all have mostly minor differences of opinion on how to build a motor, but pretty much agree yours has major problems. Time to tear her down and see just whats up.

[americanmusc1e]

all right, that's what I was thinking too. but I know I'm gonna get flak from my Dad about this.

I'll post a link to a build thread when I get one started

[highperf4x4]

Do that. Can't wait to see that 383!!

[mr48chev]

If the lobe is flat on the cam the cam is SHOT and putting a used lifter on it will just cause more grief. There is no need or reason to try to run the engine until after it has been checked out and repaired. These things just don't magically heal up on their own.

I understand the red coating on the inside of the valley cover. It is done by a number of engine builders who feel it allows the oil to flow smoother across the surface and back down into the pan.

I am not a believer in putting Marvel Mystery or any other snake oil in a new engine. A good high quality engine oil should have everything the engine needs as far as lubrication needs if it is in good condition to begin with.

Marvel Mystery oil is generally used in old engines that have been sitting for a long time and have sticking valves or stuck rings in an attempt to free those up. Some guys regularly use it as an additive during oil changes in newer engines but usually in small quantities of about a half pint or less, pretty much the same quantity as the old Bardal top oil in the 50's and 60's. Older guys especially in the Pacific Northwest will remember that and their adds and the old Miss Bardal hydroplane.

At the very least I would suggest replacing the cam and lifters (you have to do tht at any rate) and pulling the oil pan, clean it out and check the rod an main bearings for damage from metal particles.

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

all right, that's what I was thinking too. but I know I'm gonna get flak from my Dad about this.

Been there done that and so have most of us Im sure. You just have to take it and keep rollin. It comes with the territory!! Best of luck!!

[americanmusc1e]

here is my build thread. just started pulling the motor today
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3283638