POR-15 Brushers step inside please

[C10Slim]

Originally Posted by Hilandr451

I brushed all my POR-15 on. The self leveling thing really works!

Here's some tips I have learned from my experience with the stuff:

[*]
Unlike other surface treatments, POR-15 cures by removing moisture from the air, so suffice it to say the curing time is inversely proportional to the amount of moisture in the air - in other words: High Humidity = Short Curing Time[*]
I have had the best results and quickest curing time under high humidity. A good rainy day outside with the grage door open about 18" works great, but if you don't want to wait for the rain, just pour a gallon or two of water on the shop floor (preferably directly under your project) after you finish painting and it will do the trick.

Well this is one thing that actually has me conserned. Being in Houston we always have HIGH humidity we have been at 80%+ for months! I am worried it will actually dry too fast. I am going to wait until Sept to paint so hopefully we will get a couple of cooler lower humidity days.

Thanks for the post lost of good tips in there!

[Tx Firefighter]

The fact that this table is still standing defies all physics and engineering. Those front ends are crazy heavy.

[onebad65c10]

This is just my $0.02. On the frame of my 65 i used Rustoleum paint. We stripped the frame with flap discs wiped it down with degreaser and painted it. The first coat looked like s*&$. After we left it dry the second coat helped fill some of the smaller voids. The frame still looks good after 5 years. You can also reduce it with mineral spirts to spray for a semi gloss look. I did my bosses torino frame and it turned out beautiful. Like I said just mytwo pennies.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Hilandr451

I brushed all my POR-15 on. The self leveling thing really works!

Here's some tips I have learned from my experience with the stuff:

• 
  Thoroughly degrease then treat all surfaces with "Metal-Ready". Rinse with water and dry everything completely before applying POR-15!! I used a hand-held propane torch to dry the water from the nooks & crannies.
  
• 
  POR-15 contains some wicked chemicals that are not only dangerous to inhale, but that can also be absorbed through the skin. Wear gloves and long sleeves and make sure your work area is well ventilated.
  
• 
  Unlike other surface treatments, POR-15 cures by removing moisture from the air, so suffice it to say the curing time is inversely proportional to the amount of moisture in the air - in other words: High Humidity = Short Curing Time
• 
  I have had the best results and quickest curing time under high humidity. A good rainy day outside with the grage door open about 18" works great, but if you don't want to wait for the rain, just pour a gallon or two of water on the shop floor (preferably directly under your project) after you finish painting and it will do the trick.
• 
  Obviously don't paint outside in the rain. Water applied directly will ruin your project, but if you decide to paint outside, water the ground down real good the night before and try to keep your project out of direct sunlight. Remember to remove any dew that might have formed on your project over night.
  
• 
  POR-15 works best in a thin application - you shouldn't allow it to pool. keep your brush lean when applying, and spread the paint as thin as you can. When it starts to cure in a pool, it causes moisture to be pulled into the paint and then it bubbles. If that happens it no longer makes an air-tight seal to the metal and that would defeat the purpose.
  
• 
  There is no known solvent for POR-15 after it cures. Consequently, if you have just the slightest amount of paint on the lid of the can when you seal it back up, not even Hercules can get the lid off again.
  I have found that POR-15 keeps forever in a Mason jar. The glass is much easier to get clean when replacing the lid, and I can throw away the old inserts and replace w/ new each time I want to re-seal.
  
• 
  Never ever paint out of the can (or jar). As soon as you open a can of POR-15 and expose it to the atmosphere, it starts to cure. You'll want to keep your paint as fresh as possible, so only decant what you can use in about 20-30 minutes. I poured what I needed into a small glass bowl (like a custard dish)

Some great tips. I live in the High Desert, and it is dry with low humidity. I guess I have to wait for a rainy day to do mine. I already have done a Studebaker frame with POR-15 and it came out great. But one thing you didn't mention is it does dry very slow, and dust and dirt can land on it. Maybe if it was more humid when I did it, it would have dried quicker. It still came out really nice. I did the diff also.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Some great tips. I live in the High Desert, and it is dry with low humidity. I guess I have to wait for a rainy day to do mine. I already have done a Studebaker frame with POR-15 and it came out great. But one thing you didn't mention is it does dry very slow, and dust and dirt can land on it. Maybe if it was more humid when I did it, it would have dried quicker. It still came out really nice. I did the diff also.

Wet the shop floor down. Your high desert temperature with that wet floor will make plenty of humids in your shop.

[Strodder]

Yeah that's a good idea. I'm glad I'm learning all this before I do my own. The Studebaker is a customers I'm working on. It's not mine.

[raggedjim]

One thing I would add, if you do any grinding so the frame is smooth you will want to hit that area with a sand blaster to rough it up. The por15 worked great on the frame I did EXCEPT for the areas I had ground and didn't go back and blast. In those areas it flaked off. It was my own fault, but I thought I'd point it out.

Rg

[1962k20]

Ive resealed the paint can, just make sure theres no heavy amount of paint in the lip and i place a plastic shopping bag between the can and lid. had no problems yet

[Strodder]

I sand blasted in all the nooks and crannies I couldn't get at with the wire wheel..

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by 1962k20

Ive resealed the paint can, just make sure theres no heavy amount of paint in the lip and i place a plastic shopping bag between the can and lid. had no problems yet

Good idea

[steverino66]

Originally Posted by joe231

Nice post Greg!!

Hottrucks, good idea about the saran wrap.
what does putting it in the freezer accomplish?

x2 on the great post - I copied that info into a text file for later!

Joe - putting it in the freezer will inhibit drying (used to do that to save oil paints mixed on a palette when I was a poor art student - NOT popular with the wife, however)

[kizer]

Yeah I think the can says to store in the fridge to help the paint last longer.

I personally hit my frame with a flapper wheel, used their degreaser and then followed it up with their metal prep. I purposely wanted to remove all the rust because I wanted some what of a clean looking frame before painting it.

Funny thing is when I was painting it was kinda rainy outside and I did clean the frame indoors so there was water on the floor.

I will second the thing about flying objects sticking to the paint. Damn bugs and lint.

Hopefully I'll get the front half done this summer.

[kizer]

Originally Posted by 1962k20

Ive resealed the paint can, just make sure theres no heavy amount of paint in the lip and i place a plastic shopping bag between the can and lid. had no problems yet

Thats exactly what I did. I used one of those paint pouring funnel adapter things that you can buy at your local paint store to pour out my paint and then when I wasn't using it I cleaned up as much as I can and then placed a WalMart bag over the top then pushed down the lid.

I later stored my quart of paint in a freezer bag just to make sure that the lid was on tight and stored in the fridge I have out side. Before I used the paint I'd bring in the house and let it sit on a shelf for a day since the nights where a bit cooler and I wanted my paint to warm up before I opened it up and used it. IF you don't the paint seems thicker and harder to spread. I didn't want my paint clumpy and thick since the paint is supposed to self level.

Make sure you really stir the paint before you use it. The stuff really likes to sink to the bottom and if I recall it does say not to shake it.

[kizer]

Oh yeah one thing I really noticed. If you get any on your hands don't waste your time with cleaners and what not. Just get in the shower and more or less take a shot shower and get your hands really wet. When your fingers start to look like wrinkled old raisens the paint will easily flake off with some gentle scrubbing.

[Strodder]

I didn't use gloves, and got the paint all over my hands. I just thought I would use some reducer to clean them. POR-15 soaks right into the skin and stains it. It did help soaking in the pool a few times, but still took over a week to ware off after scrubbing them like crazy every day. My hands looked so dirty, I was embarrassed to go any were.

[Strodder]

BTW I wear gloves now.

[jbgroby]

Acetone will take it off also.

[Hilandr451]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

The fact that this table is still standing defies all physics and engineering. Those front ends are crazy heavy.

That there's a Texas table! I brought that thing home from my mamma's house in Corpus! After a year or so the particle board top went to sh_t so I replaced it with a piece of 7-ply 3/4" shop grade plywood and never looked back. 5 years later & she's still holding up.

That front-end is out of a 3/4 ton heavy duty Suburban - I estimate around 500 - 600 lbs give or take. The wood dosn't even appear to have a slight bow in it. I had that whole thing on there in pieces for about 2 months before I stared to re-assemble. I've also had the engine & transaxle out of my '87 Subaru on that thing.

[bigbadjohn84]

Originally Posted by Hilandr451

That there's a Texas table! I brought that thing home from my mamma's house in Corpus! After a year or so the particle board top went to sh_t so I replaced it with a piece of 7-ply 3/4" shop grade plywood and never looked back. 5 years later & she's still holding up.

That front-end is out of a 3/4 ton heavy duty Suburban - I estimate around 500 - 600 lbs give or take. The wood dosn't even appear to have a slight bow in it. I had that whole thing on there in pieces for about 2 months before I stared to re-assemble. I've also had the engine & transaxle out of my '87 Subaru on that thing.

thats too funny. ive got my own version.. but its overkil.. built out of 4x4 posts and 3/4 marine grade. its a beast

[msgross]

I used this www.nomorerust.com and a foam brush. You would swear it's powdercoated now except for a few runs since I got in a hurry...

[bigbadjohn84]

Originally Posted by msgross

I used this www.nomorerust.com and a foam brush. You would swear it's powdercoated now except for a few runs since I got in a hurry...

you have a rusty crossmember you replaced? just wondering what the piece of flat stock in the frame was from. didnt think it was factory.. looks nice though

[msgross]

Originally Posted by bigbadjohn84

you have a rusty crossmember you replaced? just wondering what the piece of flat stock in the frame was from. didnt think it was factory.. looks nice though

The flat stock with holes was from the PO reinforcing the wood bed, I didn't see any reason to cut it out so I blasted and painted it all. If it gives me fits with the new wood bed I can easily cut it out...

good catch.

[bigbadjohn84]

yea.. roger that. it works fine, I see no issue at all. the factory supports were not much in that area anyway. just something I notice.. looks good though

[1962k20]

Im also not quite sure on this but rumor has it por-15 breaks down from uv rays, so it might be good to paint over it with some good auto paint.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by 1962k20

Im also not quite sure on this but rumor has it por-15 breaks down from uv rays, so it might be good to paint over it with some good auto paint.

true.. but on frames that don't see daylight it's ok. or there are UV safe versions of the paint as well...