Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by truckzilla

Wow! I'm blown away at how straight that truck is! It must have been garaged its whole life and hardly used. I can't believe how little rust it has!

Talk about finding a gem!

I was quite happy to find it! I had to pay a good bit more than I had originally planned to spend on a truck, but it was worth it since I won't have to do a ton of rust repair and I won't have to paint the whole truck, just blend in a few places. With a little buffing the paint even has a slightly faded shine.

The front edge of the hood has rust and I'll probably go ahead and pull the vent boxes off the sides of the cowl like pdxhall did in his build thread to make sure there no rust hiding in there. Other than what little rust it has, the only other "major damage" is the extra holes drilled in the doors for west coast mirrors.

The guy that owned it it's whole life owned the downtown Esso station and kept it inside when they didn't had an open stall. He must have pampered it since the inside of the bed is very straight and even the inside of the tailgate only has a few small dings. My dad and some of his friends have said that they remember the truck sitting in that station since it was near their high school. It had about 85,000 miles on it when the PO took it apart.

[truckzilla]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I was quite happy to find it! I had to pay a good bit more than I had originally planned to spend on a truck, but it was worth it since I won't have to do a ton of rust repair and I won't have to paint the whole truck, just blend in a few places. With a little buffing the paint even has a slightly faded shine.

The front edge of the hood has rust and I'll probably go ahead and pull the vent boxes off the sides of the cowl like pdxhall did in his build thread to make sure there no rust hiding in there. Other than what little rust it has, the only other "major damage" is the extra holes drilled in the doors for west coast mirrors.

The guy that owned it it's whole life owned the downtown Esso station and kept it inside when they didn't had an open stall. He must have pampered it since the inside of the bed is very straight and even the inside of the tailgate only has a few small dings. My dad and some of his friends have said that they remember the truck sitting in that station since it was near their high school. It had about 85,000 miles on it when the PO took it apart.

Again, all I can say from seeing the pics is WOW! The condition of the inner bed sides and wheel tubs is astounding!

Hopefully, you got to pay a good bit less at buying it aready taken apart. It sounds like the PO got a wild hair for a project and then lost intrest. I know its a lot easier to take one apart than redo the parts and put it back together.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by truckzilla

Again, all I can say from seeing the pics is WOW! The condition of the inner bed sides and wheel tubs is astounding!

Hopefully, you got to pay a good bit less at buying it aready taken apart. It sounds like the PO got a wild hair for a project and then lost intrest. I know its a lot easier to take one apart than redo the parts and put it back together.

He was actually trying to find someone to do the metalwork/rust repair when dad mentioned to him that I was looking for a truck. He had bought another driver '66 and wanted to do and engine/trans swap, so he called us and said that he'd sell me the truck if I was interested in it so he could work on the other one he bought. He would have kept/finished it if I hadn't bought it.

***I edited all of the old post to fix the dead pictures- everything on the first couple pages should show up now***

[likaroc13]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

***I edited all of the old post to fix the dead pictures- everything on the first couple pages should show up now***

how'd you do that? I was told I'd have to start a new thread when my links broke

[truckzilla]

Well, I'm glad you got it because with your intention of making it a pro-touring rebel, and your attention to detail, it is going to be off the charts!

I read through your '55 International build thread earlier today. You really are some sort of bodyshop god from looking at the repair work and paint work that you put into that truck! I'm in awe and bowing at your altar of hammered metal!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

how'd you do that? I was told I'd have to start a new thread when my links broke

There's a "edit" button at the bottom of my post, it hasn't always shown up for some reason? There was one other time that I needed to edit a post and there was no edit button to click. I think some forums don't allow post to be edited after a certain length of time, but my first post here that I edited today was from 7-13-11.

This is what it looks like for me. I'm using Google Chrome, maybe it's different with for other internet explorers?

Originally Posted by truckzilla

Well, I'm glad you got it because with your intention of making it a pro-touring rebel, and your attention to detail, it is going to be off the charts!

I read through your '55 International build thread earlier today. You really are some sort of bodyshop god from looking at the repair work and paint work that you put into that truck! I'm in awe and bowing at your altar of hammered metal!

Thanks, but I wouldn't consider myself to be that great at metalwork. I've got a long way to go still! I still have to skim coat most everything, sometimes a couple times to get things ready to prime and block. I'd like to learn how to metalfinish repairs so that I don't have to use filler.

[truckzilla]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

There's a "edit" button at the bottom of my post, it hasn't always shown up for some reason? There was one other time that I needed to edit a post and there was no edit button to click. I think some forums don't allow post to be edited after a certain length of time, but my first post here that I edited today was from 7-13-11.

This is what it looks like for me. I'm using Google Chrome, maybe it's different with for other internet explorers?








Thanks, but I wouldn't consider myself to be that great at metalwork. I've got a long way to go still! I still have to skim coat most everything, sometimes a couple times to get things ready to prime and block. I'd like to learn how to metalfinish repairs so that I don't have to use filler.

Its OK to be humble and all, but you're way better than your probably giving yourself credit for. I think even the masters have to use a light skim coat!

You Sir, are big time skilled! I wish you didn't live across the country where I might try to apprentice a little!

[Dinos63]

Always such nice work!! Killer skills kat!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by truckzilla

Its OK to be humble and all, but you're way better than your probably giving yourself credit for. I think even the masters have to use a light skim coat!

You Sir, are big time skilled! I wish you didn't live across the country where I might try to apprentice a little!

Originally Posted by Dinos63

Always such nice work!! Killer skills kat!

Thanks guys!



I stuck the tach in another tach cluster I restored to check the fit. It's perfect, and the original shift pointers fit!




And I also started tearing into the cluster I'll use for the truck. This one came from a '66 parts truck I bought so it'll have the correct water temp gauge. It's also in pretty good shape so it'll turn out better than the other cluster above.

[likaroc13]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

There's a "edit" button at the bottom of my post, it hasn't always shown up for some reason? There was one other time that I needed to edit a post and there was no edit button to click. I think some forums don't allow post to be edited after a certain length of time, but my first post here that I edited today was from 7-13-11.

This is what it looks like for me. I'm using Google Chrome, maybe it's different with for other internet explorers?

weird...yeah, any time I ever post, I only have a limited amount of time to edit (30 mins. ?)...I just checked my newest build thread, & there's no way to edit the first post....I asked admin about it a while back because my Photobucket links had broken in the original build thread...I was told I would have to create a new build thread to fix it, which I did

btw, the tach looks great!

[duallyjams]

I think you should do a step by step write up on the cluster for the fact section.

[McMurphy]

I have 2 clusters of parts I am not going to use, so if you need anything let me know. Just dont be in a hurry, anything mailed to you may take up to 2 weeks to arrive from my location to yours.
You would be welcome to anything I have in this regards tho !!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

weird...yeah, any time I ever post, I only have a limited amount of time to edit (30 mins. ?)...I just checked my newest build thread, & there's no way to edit the first post....I asked admin about it a while back because my Photobucket links had broken in the original build thread...I was told I would have to create a new build thread to fix it, which I did

btw, the tach looks great!

That's strange, maybe you have to be a subscribing member to edit old post?

Originally Posted by duallyjams

I think you should do a step by step write up on the cluster for the fact section.

I'm planning on making a "How to restore your gauge cluster" post, I took pics of the teardown and will document the rest of the work done to it.

Originally Posted by McMurphy

I have 2 clusters of parts I am not going to use, so if you need anything let me know. Just dont be in a hurry, anything mailed to you may take up to 2 weeks to arrive from my location to yours.
You would be welcome to anything I have in this regards tho !!

Thanks McMurphy, I appreciate the offer! This cluster is complete and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to reuse everything. Now if you happen to have a LS2 block just laying around... I wouldn't mind waiting a few weeks for one of those!

[theastronaut]

More new parts/updates. I'd been looking for a cheap used bellhousing for mock up but those don't exist. Even checked with a local junkyard that checked in their database of ~8000 other junkyards and there were only two available nationwide, one at $200 and one at $240 plus shipping. I found that Tick Performance had new Tremec bellhousings for $199 shipped so I picked one up and it came today.

A guy called today wanting to buy the spindles, brakes, and steering parts that came with the frame so I'll order the No Limit rack kit if he buys my old parts. Gotta get new urethane body and engine mounts too so I can get the engine/trans mocked up and check for floor/firewall clearance.

I'm undecided on sectioning the crossmember 1.5" for more control arm clearance at ride height. I wanted to set the engine as low as possible by notching the crossmember for the oil pan but... dropping the whole truck 1.5" might be more effective at lowering the center of gravity? I doubt I can do both since the rack is mounted on the front of the crossmember. I guess I'll need all the parts in front of me to know for sure.

Have I rambled enough yet?

[truckzilla]

New aluminum is pretty!

[duallyjams]

I'm surprised it's not polished yet

[Alan's Classic]

Amazing as always!!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by truckzilla

New aluminum is pretty!

Originally Posted by duallyjams

I'm surprised it's not polished yet

No polishing for this one, it'll get painted with the factory overspray pattern like I did on the blue '65.

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Amazing as always!!

Thanks Alan, hope to get out next show season and see your truck in the flesh. So much detail and inspiration in that build!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Thanks Alan, hope to get out next show season and see your truck in the flesh. So much detail and inspiration in that build!
Posted via Mobile Device

I'd be imbarassed to park next to you, but would be honored at the same time. Beautifull work!!

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

...the No Limit rack kit if he buys my old parts. Gotta get new urethane body and engine mounts too so I can get the engine/trans mocked up and check for floor/firewall clearance.

I'm undecided on sectioning the crossmember 1.5" for more control arm clearance at ride height. I wanted to set the engine as low as possible by notching the crossmember for the oil pan but... dropping the whole truck 1.5" might be more effective at lowering the center of gravity? I doubt I can do both since the rack is mounted on the front of the crossmember. I guess I'll need all the parts in front of me to know for sure. ...[/IMG]

We have the Nolimit rack in my son's '82. We sectioned the frame so that the crossmember was up higher in the frame 1.5" and bolted the rack up with no issues. We have a 5.3/4L60e set up and I set up the combo so that the trans oil pan is 1/4" higher than the bottom of the frame rail. For the engine oil pan we are going to us a LSA pan that will fit without notching the crossmember and will be higher than the bottom of the crossmember.

Check out our thread for pictures, we do not have the LSA pan on yet, but the measurements say it will fit without issues. We are redoing the frame mounts for the engine now, so hopefully over the Christmas holidays we can get this put back together with the new pan.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by aggie91

We have the Nolimit rack in my son's '82. We sectioned the frame so that the crossmember was up higher in the frame 1.5" and bolted the rack up with no issues. We have a 5.3/4L60e set up and I set up the combo so that the trans oil pan is 1/4" higher than the bottom of the frame rail. For the engine oil pan we are going to us a LSA pan that will fit without notching the crossmember and will be higher than the bottom of the crossmember.

Check out our thread for pictures, we do not have the LSA pan on yet, but the measurements say it will fit without issues. We are redoing the frame mounts for the engine now, so hopefully over the Christmas holidays we can get this put back together with the new pan.

Thanks, I'll keep checking in the thread for info on the LSA pan. I like the way you notched the rails instead of taking a slice out of the crossmember, looks much easier than cutting the full width of the crossmember. I may cut across the full width on mine though to add oil pan clearance and more metal would be cut out for more weight reduction. I'll look at both ways when I start mock up.

[theastronaut]

Picked up my trans mount last night and the motor mount kit is on its way. I'm going to make the motor mounts tie the upper frame rail and to the crossmember like the stock mounts. I may chop up the original mounts and use the top half to hide the new mounts so it looks like a factory part.




Posted via Mobile Device

[aggie91]

Here is a link to where I got my LSA pan kit....it is a current auction and shows he has 3 left...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261097128044...84.m1423.l2649

[truckzilla]

Those motor mount pieces look nice. I haven't seen a kit like that where you can locate your own mounting tabs. I went with the Dirty Dingo mounts which are basically the same idea, only the tabs are already welded and the holes are slots for motor location adaptability.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Here is a link to where I got my LSA pan kit....it is a current auction and shows he has 3 left...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261097128044...84.m1423.l2649

Looks like clearance would be good with the LSA pan, but I think I'm going to use a 98-02 F-body pan since I can get a trap door baffle that bolts in.

http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pa...ffle-p-30.html

Improved Racing F-body Oil Control Baffle -...

Originally Posted by truckzilla

Those motor mount pieces look nice. I haven't seen a kit like that where you can locate your own mounting tabs. I went with the Dirty Dingo mounts which are basically the same idea, only the tabs are already welded and the holes are slots for motor location adaptability.

I thought they were neat too. Two bolts and the engine is out. I found another similar kit that I liked but it didn't have the option to move the tabs around, and the outer tube of the bushing welded to the tabs. The ones I ordered have only a bolt going through the tabs and the outer bushing tube is removable.


This was the other similar kit- outer tube welds to engine plate and isn't removable. Both are compact and simple, I didn't really like the ones with a huge rubber/urethane mount with brackets and plates everywhere. The bigger ones probably dampen engine vibration better but I'm not old enough to worry about that yet.