weather strip question?

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

I looked at the link you provided. They don't sell the kit for a 60-63 or 64-66. So what were you planning to buy from them?

vernski provided the links. i looked and asked about the 67-72 push on seals, since some people on here have used the ones for that year and said that they work great. forgot to ask about shipping tho so dont know if it is still a good deal to try them or not. jave to email them again and also ask who manufactures them.
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[Vernski]

Just because they don't sell them for a specific year doesn't mean they won't fit. How much difference in a 66-67 hopefully there long enough to just cut a little off of them as you have to with a 60-66 seal. If they are self adhesive sure would be less messy and not have the glue all over everything like your hands, face, hair, clothing not to mention all over your truck. Sounds like a good deal to me, now the only problem is how thick are they cause that can be a problem for closing the doors?..Vernski

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by Vernski

Just because they don't sell them for a specific year doesn't mean they won't fit. How much difference in a 66-67 hopefully there long enough to just cut a little off of them as you have to with a 60-66 seal. If they are self adhesive sure would be less messy and not have the glue all over everything like your hands, face, hair, clothing not to mention all over your truck. Sounds like a good deal to me, now the only problem is how thick are they cause that can be a problem for closing the doors?..Vernski

just sent em another email askin who manufactures them and whay the thickness is. shipping would be like $14 making them about $40.
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[Vernski]

Originally Posted by lasher78

just sent em another email askin who manufactures them and whay the thickness is. shipping would be like $14 making them about $40.
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Thanks Lasher..Vernski

[Sharps40]

Do these help?

I had new door rubber that came with Ol John Lee. Never used it cause his factory door rubber was stapled in ...didn't want to yank all them stables. So, pullin the door rubber of of John Lee Jr, its glued in from the factory. About as much work to remove, maybe more since ya gotta pull and scrape the rubber/glue w/o damagin the paint! But an array of scrapers including a small wood workers gouge to get into the corners and the old rubber is off. I left the factory glue line in place, its on the faces. I'll attach the new rubber to the clean lip of the door frame and if needed (but I doubt it) add a dollop here and there in faces of the corners later.

The clean up of the Passenger side.



Down in the lower groove, lots of years of trash....vacuum and a brush to get it all out. This area was not glued at the factory and I won't glue here...the door sill holds it in place and the lower corners too. It'll let me come back and weld a patch into the rocker later...you'll see it at the front corner of the door, just below the hinge piller...



For now, a bit of primer and paint to slow the rusting, at least on this side.



Test fitting the new rubber and no glue and No Cutting yet! Did that on an old 37 Dodge and had to buy new rubber, too short after glueing!



Test fit is good, a whole foot left over for the final trim. Prepping the battlefield. Some good sticking freezer tape to hold the rubber in place while the trim adhesive kicks over.

[Sharps40]

Or these?

Working from the top corner down, adhesive in the groove of the rubber to grap the lip of the frame...not stretching it too much (pulls away from the frame) nor crunching it too much (wrinkles in the rubber on the inside of the cab) I press gently and tape in place every few inches.



Once the forward piller is done all the way down to the joint between the piller and the rocker, I go back to the top and work the back half all the way down to the joint where the striker plate piller joints up with the rocker....at this point, the entire door frame has tape every few inches...I've tweeked the fit as needes while the glue is wet and checked for no wrinkles inside or huge gaps on the outer face between the rubber and the steel. At the bottom, I've trimmed the new rubber about 1" too long.



Carefully, watching the lower corners to make sure they are both snug to the frame, I nibble back to create a butt joint that I will glue together.



A line of good 3M adhesive on the butt joint, stick it together and tape it till it starts to kick over....meantime clean up the kick plate with a bit of 0000 steel wool and comet. It won't take off the rust but it'll remove the stains and make it look good. I don't want a spanky new one....this ain't no Riddler.



The kick plate installed to hold the rubber and lower corners in place. Looks much nicer with all the lil boot stains gone. Just a whisker of shine and some rust in the corners so ya know its original 1965 not China repo.



Now, back it out into the sun, door open, let it all kick over a few hours while I clean up the garage and tools. Then, Drivers Side Door gets done but I gotta mow lawns and wash dogs today, so.....till next time.

[Vernski]

Hey great pictures Sharps very helpful, you were saying on one of your trucks the door seal was stapled on wow did the factory do that? Glue is hard enough to get off I used acetone to clean up the area, but be careful as it can lift the paint off. This is why a self sticking seal would be so handy the cleanup..Vernski

[lasher78]

here is some shots of mine had another photo but site wont upload it..as you can see no lower lip, just comes down side and ends. bothe sides are exactly the same. wierd...huh
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[Vernski]

Can you get a shot from underneath looking up that may tell you more about what's going on under there? Someone may have covered up some issues for you to find later..Vernski

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by Vernski

Can you get a shot from underneath looking up that may tell you more about what's going on under there? Someone may have covered up some issues for you to find later..Vernski

are u talking about underneth truck where rocker is...if so cant really get a shot but when i was just under there talking a bolt out holding seat down i noticed there are rust out spot but still over all solid. still looks factory..dont think has been replaced before. maybe lip started rusting out and some just broke it out then sanded it down and painted it. i guess i will just have to try to weld a lip if i can get right thinkness
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[scottofksu]

One thing I noticed while kicking around the truck this weekend...

As can be seen in the first picture, the ridge on the factory inner rocker for the weather stripping is bent 90 degrees (Pic 1).

However, the replacement inner rocker I purchased is flat...

I'm sure this would affect how well the seal stays in place (less to grab onto if the piece is flat).

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by scottofksu

It's actually the "inner rocker" that has the door seal lip on it... Ask me how I know...

on the parts I have (I'm also doing the full deal replacement that scottofksu is doing) the "inner rocker" panel is a patch piece that does NOT have the lip. The lip is on the rocker. picture # 1 in Sharps40's first picture post and #6 in his next post.

doesn't really matter. in my opinion your floors and rockers are in worse shape than you may think and like someone mentioned earlier the paint may be hiding something.

edit: the inner rocker's top edge is built flat so that it fits inside the rocker panel lip so that the two can be spot or rosette welded to each other

[mater63]

i tried the LMCs replaced them with another brand those didn't work either. I put in the steele rubber seals they fit the best but after 2 yrs the doors are still hard to shut