Fires but won't stay running

[69 long wide]

It starts but as soon as I let off the key is sputters out.

I think I've narrowed it down to a loss of power to the Coil. If we jump the coil it runs like a top.

Is this a Solenoid problem?

With the key in the "on" position should the yellow wire leading from the solenoid to the coil be hot?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 69 long wide

It starts but as soon as I let off the key is sputters out.

It is wired wrong or a wire is not connected.

I think I've narrowed it down to a loss of power to the Coil. If we jump the coil it runs like a top.

Is this a Solenoid problem?

No, the solenoid is working properly.. Evidently the resistor wire from the ignition switch is not connected to the coil.

With the key in the "on" position should the yellow wire leading from the solenoid to the coil be hot?

No, it should only be hot when actually cranking the engine. There should be another wire from the ignition switch connected to the same post as the yellow wire on the coil....

LockDoc

[BLK96]

Run a new wire from "ign unfused" (I think that's how it's labeled) to coil. Non resistor if HEI

[BLK96]

Should have added that terminal in fuse block

[BLK96]

Also make sure that terminal getting 12V with key on

[cdowns]

if you have an hei ignition you should have eliminated the yellow wire as part OF THE PROPER INSTALLATION OF THE HEI

[69 long wide]

Originally Posted by BLK96

Run a new wire from "ign unfused" (I think that's how it's labeled) to coil. Non resistor if HEI

My memory said the light brown wire in the bundle running across the top in the drip rail to the left side was the hot ignition wire. I found it was cut and loose wire with a small loop end like it belonged on the coil ticked in the rail. however when I tested the light brown wire it was not hot with the ignition in the ON position. (arrgg)

I dropped inside to test the Ignition un-fused pins on the fuse block and they didn't get hot either which makes me think there is a problem with the switch.

Now for the stuuuupid question. How do you get the switch out? I got the finish ring to loosen but it wont go further than 1/4" loose.

Does the little hole on the face of the ignition release anything? I tried to push a paper clip in to get something to move but I fear that I F'd something up when I was prying on the finish ring.

Back to the coil. I have a black wire and a red wire running to the bottom of the distributor and a yellow wire to the starter on the Red side. I assume when I get a hot ignition switched wire I need to have it on the Yellow and Red side too!

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by 69 long wide

My memory said the light brown wire in the bundle running across the top in the drip rail to the left side was the hot ignition wire. I found it was cut and loose wire with a small loop end like it belonged on the coil ticked in the rail. however when I tested the light brown wire it was not hot with the ignition in the ON position. (arrgg)

I dropped inside to test the Ignition un-fused pins on the fuse block and they didn't get hot either which makes me think there is a problem with the switch.

Now for the stuuuupid question. How do you get the switch out? I got the finish ring to loosen but it wont go further than 1/4" loose.

You probably fried a fuseable link when the original coil wire was tucked in the rail, it probably shorted out there.


Don't take the switch out until you have a reason. Check for a power supply to the switch, in this case likely a fuseable link.

[69 long wide]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

You probably fried a fuseable link when the original coil wire was tucked in the rail, it probably shorted out there.


Don't take the switch out until you have a reason. Check for a power supply to the switch, in this case likely a fuseable link.

No we have power through the switch all the way to the starter. There is no link between the key and the fuse block.

There is no link from the back side of the fuse block to the coil.

Do you know how to get the switch out?

[69 long wide]

Originally Posted by BLK96

Should have added that terminal in fuse block

With the key in the on position the terminal is not hot. Is that a switch problem? How do you get the switch out?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by 69 long wide

With the key in the on position the terminal is not hot. Is that a switch problem? How do you get the switch out?

No way to tell without further diagnostics.

"No we have power through the switch all the way to the starter. There is no link between the key and the fuse block".

That's right, if you mean "fusible link".

"There is no link from the back side of the fuse block to the coil".

Right again, if you mean "fusible link".

"Do you know how to get the switch out"?

No, I've never had to replace one. I'd recommend verifying the fusible link is intact, and you can refer to the diagrams in this link. I like the one by vette vette, you will have to scroll down.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624417

Or, if you just want to replace your ignition switch, here you go.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=343215

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 69 long wide

With the key in the on position the terminal is not hot. Is that a switch problem? How do you get the switch out?

As far as removing the switch, read through this thread. I posted the instructions in it. Read the whole thread before starting.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=462981

Any questions post 'em up....

LockDoc

[davepl]

I need to stick my neck out here again just to note that you cannot find a resistance wire with a voltmeter (unless it's under significant load) by just checking voltage at the end. Stick a resistor on a battery. Measure voltage. Same as without the resistor. Current flow is reduced, so if there's a load the voltage would drop, but not just sitting there. If you could isolate the wire and check for resistance with the ohmmeter part of your meter, that'd find it.

I'm just afraid people will measure voltage at the factory resistance wire, find 12+V, and decide it's not a resistance wire.

If this were a cold-start issue I'd say choke pull-off, but pretty clearly electrical if the description is accurate.

If IGN UNFUSED isn't hot with the key in the RUN position then that's the issue, but before you rip the lock out, are you certain there's power going INTO it? You can check that at the connector on the back far easier than pulling it apart.