Original heat stove finish

[TBONE1964]

Thank you all for the advise. I do have it acid dipped and bead blasted and ready for finish. I do like the idea of zinc myself but may see what else I can do. Hard to find plater's in this area.

I will get another heat stove and send it out for a finish with some other pieces in the future. I am anxious to get the truck rolling again.

Take care,
Tom

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Use muriatic acid to remove the rust. Then coat with Caswell high temperature flat black powdercoat. Same basic coating as 'ceramic headers' but flat black.

This is the best way to go if you have it done professionally vs. DIY.

[Ochre Ogre]

Blue/72 what did you use to paint your air cleaner? I'm getting ready to tear my engine bay apart to start cleaning it up and yours looks great. Did you use the same to paint your inner fender wells and assorted black trim?

[Blue/72]

Originally Posted by Ochre Ogre

Blue/72 what did you use to paint your air cleaner? I'm getting ready to tear my engine bay apart to start cleaning it up and yours looks great. Did you use the same to paint your inner fender wells and assorted black trim?

I had my inner fenders, core support and battery tray all powder-coated and I just sandblasted and rattle canned the air cleaner with Rustolium satin black spray paint. It's a paint and primer in one. I sprayed it once then I wet sanded it with 1000 grit then gave it one more coat so it was nice and smooth. For the heat shield and riser I used a semi-gloss black high temp barbecue paint. I have put almost 600 miles on the truck since the rebuild and so far everything is holding up very well.

[Blue/72]

Here is my build thread with more pictures of my front end rebuild.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=642629

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by WarMonger

Heat Stove??? what is this? why have i never heard anything about a heat stove? Is this a CST thing?

From the 1970 owners manual

[MagmaJct]

I think the reason intake is pre-heated has to do with the laws of thermodynamics.

In order for a liquid to vaporize, heat must be absorbed in the process. This, incidentally is how air conditioning works in the evaporator coil. When fuel is atomized in the carburetor, then exposed to the lower than atmospheric pressure of the intake manifold, it absorbs heat and vaporizes.

If there isn't enough heat to be absorbed, a certain percentage of the atomized fuel fails to vaporizes, and collects in the intake manifold. In pre-emissions era, carburetors were tuned rich, which compensated for this loss of fuel that collected on these surfaces. This fuel, eventually made it into the combustion chambers, but in near liquid form, it burned poorly and contributed to HC pollution.

The solution was/is to pre-heat the incoming air. By providing more heat to the atomized fuel, a greater percentage of it would vaporize, and contribute to the power of combustion. Because more fuel was vaporized, the carburetors could then be tuned leaner.

For this reason, many incorrectly believe removing the pre-heat will result in a richer mixture and more power. Not necessarily so! (Although, cool intake does provide a more dense charge of air, which can increase power, but that's beyond the scope of this write up!)

Port fuel injection did away with pre-heat, as fuel injectors atomize the fuel right above the intake valves. There is plenty of heat, and very little surface for the fuel to collect/condense on.

Regards,
Mike

Edit: For typos!

[IronCanine]

I ceramic coated my exhaust manifold and the associated riser tins. The tube itself and breather are regular powder coat. I don't know how it'll hold up, but it looked good. Hopefully it'll stay that way for a while.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

I ceramic coated my exhaust manifold and the associated riser tins. The tube itself and breather are regular powder coat. I don't know how it'll hold up, but it looked good. Hopefully it'll stay that way for a while.

And that is a thing of beauty, very nice looking!

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

And that is a thing of beauty, very nice looking!

Thanks.

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

I ceramic coated my exhaust manifold and the associated riser tins. The tube itself and breather are regular powder coat. I don't know how it'll hold up, but it looked good. Hopefully it'll stay that way for a while.

As always, a perfect example to go by Brad. I am thinking of ceramic coat for my heat stove also. Is that dip stick and tube the original for the 4x4 or is it Blazer only? I have a normal tube and stick in mine but believe it to be incorrect.

Great work and thank you for the input,

Take care,
Tom

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

I ceramic coated my exhaust manifold and the associated riser tins. The tube itself and breather are regular powder coat. I don't know how it'll hold up, but it looked good. Hopefully it'll stay that way for a while.

Beautiful.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

Is that dip stick and tube the original for the 4x4 or is it Blazer only? I have a normal tube and stick in mine but believe it to be incorrect.

Take care,
Tom

Tom - Brad's pic shows the 4x4 specific (Blazer and pickup) OEM dipstick setup.

[IronCanine]

Tom...just because yours doesn't have the curved 4WD dipstick, doesn't mean it's incorrect in my opinion. I've noticed inconsistencies with this. The first pic is a 1970 very low mileage 4WD Blazer. It appears to me to have a normal "straight" dipstick. I've noticed similar inconsistencies with the long fill tube. I thought the brake booster option would make it a given, but the second pic is a very original 71 4WD Blazer with power brakes. It's got the curved dipstick, obviously, but not the long fill tube. More knowledgeable opinions please chime in.

[DeadheadNM]

The long fill tube is used for ac equipped trucks as the compressor covers the fill hole on the rh valve cover. The 70 above is interesting but not the norm as regards the dipstick. Tom am i correct in that your k20 has a non-stock engine block?

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

The long fill tube is used for ac equipped trucks as the compressor covers the fill hole on the rh valve cover.

Well that makes sense. Thanks Pete.

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

The long fill tube is used for ac equipped trucks as the compressor covers the fill hole on the rh valve cover. The 70 above is interesting but not the norm as regards the dipstick. Tom am i correct in that your k20 has a non-stock engine block?

That is correct Pete. Mine has a later model year target replacement engine which would make perfect since on the dip stick tube being incorrect.

You two are helping me very much. Like I have said, I may not follow the guidelines of correctness but at least I will know what it is and can make my decisions based on that.

It is also great information to help others build there trucks.

Take care and thank you for the info,
Tom

[Chevy Fan Always]

Originally Posted by Blue/72

Not sure what they painted it with but they were painted black from the factory. I painted mine with gloss black high temp bbq. Here is a pic

Good looking engine! Any idea where I can find one of those shields that covers the temp sending unit?

Mike Wilson

[Stocker]

It's been several days and several new posts since I looked at this thread. Got me curious so I checked my heat stove which of course was removed decades ago, when I replaced a cracked exhaust manifold. The original factory color was........ rust! Actually there are some small areas along the bottom of it that still have the factory black paint. By all appearances it matches the black on the tube, which (to me) seems to be, for lack of a better term, satin black. Less shine than semi-gloss but a bit more than flat black.

[PDXk5]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Tom...just because yours doesn't have the curved 4WD dipstick, doesn't mean it's incorrect in my opinion. I've noticed inconsistencies with this. The first pic is a 1970 very low mileage 4WD Blazer. It appears to me to have a normal "straight" dipstick. I've noticed similar inconsistencies with the long fill tube. I thought the brake booster option would make it a given, but the second pic is a very original 71 4WD Blazer with power brakes. It's got the curved dipstick, obviously, but not the long fill tube. More knowledgeable opinions please chime in.

Hey, that 71 4WD Blazer in the second pic looks good. Oh, wait that's my rig ! FYI, it's actually a '72.

I had the air cleaner, and heat riser tube powder coated. The heat shield for the heat riser tube was ceramic coated 'exhaust manifold grey' by a local ceramic coater.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by PDXk5

Hey, that 71 4WD Blazer in the second pic looks good. Oh, wait that's my rig ! FYI, it's actually a '72.

I had the air cleaner, and heat riser tube powder coated. The heat shield for the heat riser tube was ceramic coated 'exhaust manifold grey' by a local ceramic coater.

Thanks for the correction! I knew that too...just goofed it in the post. You know those exhaust pics you sent me were invaluable in my build. I took them, along with sales literature and a pic from a parts manual that I got from 1rippen6 to the exhaust shop and said "bend me something that looks just like this!"