surface rust in cab shell...

[sdotrivers15]

So what are the options to take care of surface rust like this? This is going up into the roof on the back corner of the cab. I can reach as far as I can in there with a sander/sandpaper, but seeing how this is, it's probably going up into the roof. Suggestions?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

You can scrub some off with white vinegar and a scotch guard. Navel jelly is an option, but if you ask me, white vinegar is much better option. Sand paper as well. Then a coat of rust mort, Por15 or similar. Paint and you're good to go.

What about what you can't see, in other words, the rear window frame?

[sdotrivers15]

I'm doing a full resto on this, was just wondering if i should go as far as pulling the inner roof out & addressing the issue. The rear window will come out, so I'll get a good look at that.

[In The Ten Ring]

I've never restored a vehicle but if I was restoring mine (full restoration) I'd go all out and strip it totally down and go hardcore on it. "Zero rust" would be my standard. I guess that means "media blasting" (crushed glass) for what you got there.

[special-K]

If you are concerned with rust between the top panels your best bet (other than separating) I think would be to spray rust convertor up in there very thoroughly and hope it got onto all surfaces. I would use one you can paint right onto and do the same with paint. Get sloppy, it doesn't matter. You can deal with the areas you see later.

[sdotrivers15]

Is there any reason to worry about it? I don't want to fix all the other stuff only to have this be a problem down the road.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by sdotrivers15

I'm doing a full resto on this, was just wondering if i should go as far as pulling the inner roof out & addressing the issue. The rear window will come out, so I'll get a good look at that.

Everyone of these old trucks have inner panel surface rust to some extent , Even the best restoration shops would not advise you to pull the inner panels but rather guide you towards a spray in rust conversion chemical of your choice . Short of dipping the whole cab your not going to eliminate all of it no matter what process you choose . The best you can hope for is to encapsulate it with rust preventive measures , I would be more concerned about the area above the windshield where there is no air circulation rather than the rear window area that is open to air let alone rarely seen as an area of rust thru . These old trucks were made with real metal not like today's tinker toys , pick your rust battles wisely before you end up with a totally disassembled truck laying on the garage floor for years . I would never use any type of "stripper " that can come back to raise its ugly head on final paintwork popping and peeling . It's like watching guys do all their body work over the winter in a cool / cold garage and wondering why their "perfect body work " looks Terrible after the truck sits in the summer sun for a few weeks !
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[sdotrivers15]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Everyone of these old trucks have inner panel surface rust to some extent , Even the best restoration shops would not advise you to pull the inner panels but rather guide you towards a spray in rust conversion chemical of your choice . Short of dipping the whole cab your not going to eliminate all of it no matter what process you choose . The best you can hope for is to encapsulate it with rust preventive measures , I would be more concerned about the area above the windshield where there is no air circulation rather than the rear window area that is open to air let alone rarely seen as an area of rust thru . These old trucks were made with real metal not like today's tinker toys , pick your rust battles wisely before you end up with a totally disassembled truck laying on the garage floor for years . I would never use any type of "stripper " that can come back to raise its ugly head on final paintwork popping and peeling . It's like watching guys do all their body work over the winter in a cool / cold garage and wondering why their "perfect body work " looks Terrible after the truck sits in the summer sun for a few weeks !
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That's all I need to hear. Just wanted to make sure it's not a problem in the making. Whats the choice rust inhibitor?

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by sdotrivers15

That's all I need to hear. Just wanted to make sure it's not a problem in the making. Whats the choice rust inhibitor?

None in my opinion and I've restored dozens of customer trucks let alone currently building 3 '67s for myself right now , every body seam in these trucks has some extent of hidden surface rust from the "patina " trucks to the $200k restorations , like I said I'd be more concerned with the windshield / cowl area and using the right 3M self leveling seam sealer on the roof seam also using good body sealer where appropriate on the body seams . Reach up behind your dash and wipe your hand ... I'll bet it comes back out with orange surface rust , condensation happens thru out .No car/truck manufacturer plans on having their products lasting 50 years . A lot of these trucks survived pretty well considering how they were built so many years ago . Many guys seem to forget there 50 years old , Not designed to sport 500 hp with dropped suspensions on a simple riveted frame ! With the current trend to build a dropped race truck and trash all the simple stock items a bone stock truck will not only be hard to find in the years to come they will also be worth more than their restomodded cousins in the years to come . Choose how you rebuild wisely , follow the current trend or build a reasonable stock investment ! Want to make some serious $ fast find a base model '67/68 and clean it up nicely without going crazy keeping it as stock as possible and have it ready to sell to any new truck Chevy dealer by the end of 2016 ! Every dealership in the us will want one on their showroom floor when they turn 50 . It would sure make selling the new $55,000.00 trucks easier when you show the customer one in great shape that's 50 years old ! I'm willing to bet a donut that I'll be able to trade 2 (stock) '67 short beds for a brand new 2017 Chevy truck !
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[Grumpy old man]

I'm concentrating on buying clean titled cabs / failed restorations just in anticipation of the coming huge price surge next year ,and you have to remember the 67 is a one year optioned truck .
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[old Chevy guy]

I hear what your saying Grumpy but I'm not sure I'd want to trade two good 67's for one 2017. Maybe if they gave me some money too I'd think about it.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by old Chevy guy

I hear what your saying Grumpy but I'm not sure I'd want to trade two good 67's for one 2017. Maybe if they gave me some money too I'd think about it.

I'm not against new trucks but I refuse to pay what they want for one , I have the trucks/ parts/ engines and drivelines so I'm seriously considering trying to make a deal . My plans for my restomod keep changing but it will make the 2017 complete power tour for sure! How cool will that be a 67 short fleet with a 1967 427 tri power backed by a M22 Muncie a gear vendors overdrive and 3.73 posi ? Custom interior / power rear window , on 20" cragers ? I can't wait !
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[70's luvr]

Edited..wouldn't do any good.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by 70's luvr

Grumpy, why do you turn every thread you comment on into how smart you are and anyone modifying theirs is wasting money? We get it.

Don't read it that way , I get just as excited about my own projects as anyone else , I never said I was any smarter than anyone else and I have no dog in your race so build whatever suits your own personal fancy . I have been doing this for most of my life and try to post info I've learned over the last 40 years . This is an open forum and I have my own comments and opinions , just because they aren't the same as yours doesn't mean I have to Censor myself to please anyone as long as I follow the board rules which I think I am .
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