surface rust in cab shell...

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by sdotrivers15

I'm doing a full resto on this, was just wondering if i should go as far as pulling the inner roof out & addressing the issue. The rear window will come out, so I'll get a good look at that.

Everyone of these old trucks have inner panel surface rust to some extent , Even the best restoration shops would not advise you to pull the inner panels but rather guide you towards a spray in rust conversion chemical of your choice . Short of dipping the whole cab your not going to eliminate all of it no matter what process you choose . The best you can hope for is to encapsulate it with rust preventive measures , I would be more concerned about the area above the windshield where there is no air circulation rather than the rear window area that is open to air let alone rarely seen as an area of rust thru . These old trucks were made with real metal not like today's tinker toys , pick your rust battles wisely before you end up with a totally disassembled truck laying on the garage floor for years . I would never use any type of "stripper " that can come back to raise its ugly head on final paintwork popping and peeling . It's like watching guys do all their body work over the winter in a cool / cold garage and wondering why their "perfect body work " looks Terrible after the truck sits in the summer sun for a few weeks !
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[sdotrivers15]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Everyone of these old trucks have inner panel surface rust to some extent , Even the best restoration shops would not advise you to pull the inner panels but rather guide you towards a spray in rust conversion chemical of your choice . Short of dipping the whole cab your not going to eliminate all of it no matter what process you choose . The best you can hope for is to encapsulate it with rust preventive measures , I would be more concerned about the area above the windshield where there is no air circulation rather than the rear window area that is open to air let alone rarely seen as an area of rust thru . These old trucks were made with real metal not like today's tinker toys , pick your rust battles wisely before you end up with a totally disassembled truck laying on the garage floor for years . I would never use any type of "stripper " that can come back to raise its ugly head on final paintwork popping and peeling . It's like watching guys do all their body work over the winter in a cool / cold garage and wondering why their "perfect body work " looks Terrible after the truck sits in the summer sun for a few weeks !
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That's all I need to hear. Just wanted to make sure it's not a problem in the making. Whats the choice rust inhibitor?

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by sdotrivers15

That's all I need to hear. Just wanted to make sure it's not a problem in the making. Whats the choice rust inhibitor?

None in my opinion and I've restored dozens of customer trucks let alone currently building 3 '67s for myself right now , every body seam in these trucks has some extent of hidden surface rust from the "patina " trucks to the $200k restorations , like I said I'd be more concerned with the windshield / cowl area and using the right 3M self leveling seam sealer on the roof seam also using good body sealer where appropriate on the body seams . Reach up behind your dash and wipe your hand ... I'll bet it comes back out with orange surface rust , condensation happens thru out .No car/truck manufacturer plans on having their products lasting 50 years . A lot of these trucks survived pretty well considering how they were built so many years ago . Many guys seem to forget there 50 years old , Not designed to sport 500 hp with dropped suspensions on a simple riveted frame ! With the current trend to build a dropped race truck and trash all the simple stock items a bone stock truck will not only be hard to find in the years to come they will also be worth more than their restomodded cousins in the years to come . Choose how you rebuild wisely , follow the current trend or build a reasonable stock investment ! Want to make some serious $ fast find a base model '67/68 and clean it up nicely without going crazy keeping it as stock as possible and have it ready to sell to any new truck Chevy dealer by the end of 2016 ! Every dealership in the us will want one on their showroom floor when they turn 50 . It would sure make selling the new $55,000.00 trucks easier when you show the customer one in great shape that's 50 years old ! I'm willing to bet a donut that I'll be able to trade 2 (stock) '67 short beds for a brand new 2017 Chevy truck !
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