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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
Posts: 1,869
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New Bed Wood time.
Finally got around to replacing the bed wood. Judging from the half dozen holes and the mushroom farm underneath, it's time..
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Here's a pic of the new wood. Still have to sand it, drill the hole, stain it, and then preserve it. Shout out to GMC Pauls for the graphic on the measurements.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,720
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Nice. I'll be watching.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
I just picked up some tigerwood today for my bed -- looks great but I got 3/4" and I'm worried that it might be too flexible. How thick is your wood?
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1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Norwalk, CA
Posts: 114
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Recently re did mine. Would've been easier with bed off the truck but it wasn't to bad doing it with it on. Good luck.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Narol, Manitoba
Posts: 29
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
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1972 GMC Super Custom Highlander |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Quote:
I had o ct the short outside boards to width, but the long boards were spot on. 3/4 thick is what the factory used so your boards should be fine. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Spring Valley, Ca.
Posts: 1,112
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Found mine in a wrecking yard 20+ yrs. ago. Stored it complete on its side until recently when having my truck reworked. It was originally a long bed but was cut down to fit. Has some aging to it naturally but just gives it character like the character that will be behind the wheel.
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Smitty '71 Short Fleetside Spring Valley, Ca. |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: ROMNEY, WV USA
Posts: 304
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
What type of wood are you using?
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#10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
It's "Arkansa Pine". I has a real nice grain pattern to it, and it doesn't have any knots or splits. The lumber yard I bought it from was real good about me being able to pick my boards, and then I cut them to length fight there.
The only down side, if there is one, is that I had to buy 16 foot long boards, in order to get the 97 inch length (why couldn't it have been 96, but that would've been too easy), so I have a bit of lumber left over. That's ok though, because I have lots of projects to use it on. ![]() |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Quote:
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1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Mason City, IA
Posts: 157
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
I'm always interested to see how the different grains turn out. I just finished pine as well, so yell with Any questions, and good luck on the project!
Jim |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
So far, so good. I have it all stained, and all cut out except for the back corners, which will be simple.
Tonight I sorted out my bolt kit, but still have to figure out where the washers go. The kit came with 14 -1 inch washers with a 1/4center hole, and 26 1 inch washers with at 3/8 center hole. I'll make notes when I take the old bolts out |
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#14 |
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 547
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Curious what type of stain/clear protection everyone is using?
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#15 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Ousted two different color stains, Minwax "lpwich Pine" was alittle too red for my liking, so the second and third coat are "Puritan Pine". It darkened it a little more and took out the Reddish tint.
To protect it, I'm going with two coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, top and bottom. I've said it before, but the reason I'm having to replace my wood is that 25 years ago, I sanded and stained it, and then put Marine Varnish on to protect it. The varnish met all the moisture trapped so it couldn't breath, and eventually rotted from underneath. The BLO wil protect without sealing and it'll turn a little darker over time, from sun exposure. |
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#16 |
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Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
I used tung oil on southern yellow pine. I didn't stain it just let it do it's thing on the patina. The truck lives outside and the bed gets used. The oil is real low maintenance... good choice! You can check out the original oiling, and what it looks like a year later.
![]() http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7659407 j
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#17 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
I'm staining, I am not a fan of stripping failing coatings! I'm going to use Armstrong Clark Hardwood Transparent, just not sure whether to go mahogany or amber yet...
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1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed Last edited by crakarjax; 10-06-2017 at 10:08 PM. |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Norwalk, CA
Posts: 114
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
I used a pine kit. Burned the grain and gave it 3 coats of semi gloss spar urethane. Painted the bottom and sides with rustoleum high heat bbq paint.
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#19 |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Williamston, Mi
Posts: 882
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Now that' a different approach. Really sets it off too. I take it that you just went over it lightly with a small propane torch, then sanded it? I like it.
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Yeah that grain looks really cool singed! I'm using this end sealer on my boards
http://amzn.to/2ywRIt5 And I heard this stuff is the best for oiling, it's made for hardwood and penetrates without creating a hardened film on the surface -- formulated for really dense hardwoods with interesting resinous properties: http://amzn.to/2z5jEl1
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1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
Posts: 1,869
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
The new beds that are shown are awesome! I do like the fired look but I don't have a torch big enough for the job.
Any suggestions on where to start installing the new wood? Outsides, working back and forth, with the two thinner boards last is what I'm going to do. Am I right? |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Mason City, IA
Posts: 157
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Yup, that is the approach I used also. For the last strip or two, you will need a helper on the opposite side, or use something heavy to hold the carriage bolts down while you get the nuts started. Anxious to see it installed!
Jim |
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#23 | |
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Quote:
post pics for us... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
Posts: 1,869
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Yup, you need a good set of woodworking tools. If it's dimensional lumber you won't need a planer or joiner, but you will need a table saw with dado blade set.
It also helps to have an assistant to help feed the board through the saw. After that I measured and made templates for the counter sunk washers. As I said it takes a few woodworking tools that would be cost inhibitive for one time use. The reason I cut my own is that I already have all the tools. |
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#25 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: New Bed Wood time.
Quote:
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