Hydroboost Mounting Plates

[Captainfab]

1. if you want to mount the assembly correctly and solidly, yes you will need both a booster bracket and a hydroboost mounting plate.

2. You will need the socket if you source a used hydroboost that is recessed into the factory mounting bracket, or if you do not have a crescent wrench large enough to fit the nut.

3. All factory hydroboost units that I have sen, have an eye at the end of the pushrod. This will need to be cut off and the rod either threaded to accommodate a coupling nut, or an extension welded to the pushrod to reach your brake pedal.

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Hey Captain - Back with a new project.

I'm working on a 72' C10 that is currently power disc/drum, but I'll be converting to disc/disc.

I'd like to run a hydroboost. I have a few questions for you and folks who have done this.

1. My understanding is I'd need your booster adaptor and hydroboost adapter.
2. Would I need the socket, assuming I buy a new hydroboost? I'm assuming yes, to mount it to the new bracket at least.
3. Do we know if modifications to the pushrod are needed with the adaptor/hydro-plate to reach the brake pedal, or do they typically have enough adjustment?

Thanks all!

[Hammered 77]

Subscribed

[Campbel45]

Hey Captainfab,

A couple of questions for you..

#1 - Do you know I your booster bracket and plate will work with 67-72 C40-70 medium duty model trucks? I assume they would since the cabs are very similar.

#2 - Do you know if your booster bracket and plate will work with hydromax systems?

[Captainfab]

My booster bracket will work as long as the pedal bracket is the same as the '67-'72 C/K10,20 &30. I do know that on the '60-'66 medium duty trucks the pedal bracket is the same unless it is setup for air brakes

From what I have seen online of the hydromax, no it will not work. The hydromax is completely different.

Originally Posted by Campbel45

Hey Captainfab,

A couple of questions for you..

#1 - Do you know I your booster bracket and plate will work with 67-72 C40-70 medium duty model trucks? I assume they would since the cabs are very similar.

#2 - Do you know if your booster bracket and plate will work with hydromax systems?

[derail]

I just wanted to bump this and say that I ordered the plate and bracket on thursday and it was on my doorstep monday. It's great when someone takes your business seriously. I don't post a lot here but I'll be sure to post a picture or two when I get this hydro boost project finished.

[Captainfab]

Thank you for the compliment and the purchase

I look forward to seeing the pics you post.

[Captainfab]

Bump.

[DonLeverton]

An awful lot to read here, but I haven't seen anything about brake pedal ratios.

I have seen a post on this message board about a guy that cut off a second pedal arm and used it as a "bellcrank" to maintain the the correct pushrod angle.

I'm going to be using a reman hydroboost from an 85 C30.
The two bolts on the plate that it is mounted to seem to be a direct fit to the firewall. See attached image.
Now I have found your "adapter plates".

My 1966 GMC was manual drum brake, which had a higher pedal ratio than what you should have for "power brakes"

Does your kit include provisions / instructions for re-drilling the pedal and moving the pushrod lower? Do you use the OEM 1966 pushrod?

I want to get this right the first time, and everyone says that you are the guy to talk to.

[DonLeverton]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I haven't done one myself yet, but I have looked at several. They're really not that hard to plumb. There are a few places that sell either ready made SS braided hose sets, or you can piece your own together. I'll make sure you find what you need to complete your install.

Here’s some bling with a purpose!
PSC makes a hydroboost reservoir that filters and “calms” the fluid by settling out the aeration. JEGS/Summit makes a chrome remote pump reservoir with an AN12 (if I recall correctly?) return fitting.
What you see on that PSC can right now are braided - covered rubber hose with barbed fittings and hose clamp covers. I will be replacing them with “real” PTFE hose and hose ends.
Every fitting on my steering box, pump, and hydroboost is 45* flare fittings, so it’s just a matter of using adapters (from JEGS) to convert them to AN.
I’m hoping it will look “pro” when I get it all assembled
Posted via Mobile Device

[DonLeverton]

Originally Posted by DonLeverton

Here’s some bling with a purpose!
PSC makes a hydroboost reservoir that filters and “calms” the fluid by settling out the aeration. JEGS/Summit makes a chrome remote pump reservoir with an AN12 (if I recall correctly?) return fitting.
What you see on that PSC can right now are braided - covered rubber hose with barbed fittings and hose clamp covers. I will be replacing them with “real” PTFE hose and hose ends.
Every fitting on my steering box, pump, and hydroboost is 45* flare fittings, so it’s just a matter of using adapters (from JEGS) to convert them to AN.
I’m hoping it will look “pro” when I get it all assembled
Posted via Mobile Device

Posted via Mobile Device

[slammed57]

so to run a hydroboost you need this filter/can as well? is this correct?

[DonLeverton]

Originally Posted by slammed57

so to run a hydroboost you need this filter/can as well? is this correct?

Well not really NEEDED, but I want to hear supercharger whine, not power steering pump whine. 😂

Air in the ps pump as a result of agitation from the fluid returning directly to the pump is what causes the whining.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by DonLeverton

Well not really NEEDED, but I want to hear supercharger whine, not power steering pump whine. 😂

Air in the ps pump as a result of agitation from the fluid returning directly to the pump is what causes the whining.

ahhh gotcha, lol thanks bud

[Captainfab]

Sorry but I do not have any instructions for installing a hydroboost. I simply have not had time with working 80hrs/7 days a week every week every month.

Most people do p[refer to drill a mounting hole in the brake pedal 1" down from the original manual brake pushrod mounting hole.

I do recommend cutting both the original pushrod and the hydroboost pushrod and welding them together at the correct length. This will allow you to have some adjustment. It can also be done with aftermarket brake pushrods or just off the shelf parts to fabricate your own.

Yes my booster bracket does mount your booster/master assembly correctly and solidly using the mounting holes that GM engineers provided to attach directly to the pedal bracket on the inside. No drilling extra holes in the firewall that may or may not come out on the inside in an ideal location.

Originally Posted by DonLeverton

An awful lot to read here, but I haven't seen anything about brake pedal ratios.

I have seen a post on this message board about a guy that cut off a second pedal arm and used it as a "bellcrank" to maintain the the correct pushrod angle.

I'm going to be using a reman hydroboost from an 85 C30.
The two bolts on the plate that it is mounted to seem to be a direct fit to the firewall. See attached image.
Now I have found your "adapter plates".

My 1966 GMC was manual drum brake, which had a higher pedal ratio than what you should have for "power brakes"

Does your kit include provisions / instructions for re-drilling the pedal and moving the pushrod lower? Do you use the OEM 1966 pushrod?

I want to get this right the first time, and everyone says that you are the guy to talk to.

[63C20Rat]

Hey , I just wanted to see or know what you guys are running for the MC ... part #s would be even better... I’m running disc/disc, I’m trying to get some options together and pick the best! Also can I put my line lock in this too

[derail]

I finished this project a while back. The bracket was perfect. I'll list some parts in hopes of helping someone down the road. I used a used booster from a 1996 astro van at pick-n-pull. I made my own pushrod from allthread and misc. that I picked up at ace hardware. I had a vacuum booster previously and moved the pushrod back into the original hole on the pedal arm. I decided to go with a pump with dual returns after reading some reviews about "t-ing" the line. I figured I've came this far, might as well go all the way. The pump and master cylinder came from autozone. The pump is Endurance #7068. The master is Duralast NM1863. This master is for a disc/drum setup. Both of these are from a 1982 gmc 3/4 ton suburban with a diesel engine. I used some misc. fittings to convert to AN fittings from summit. Everything went together well and I'm absolutely happy with how the brakes feel now. They've never felt this good. The one hiccup I had was the new pump is a press on pulley and my old one was a keyway. No big deal. I wouldn't have attempted this without captain fab's bracket and all the info on this thread. Appreciate it.

[Captainfab]

Thanks for the feedback and the parts info.

[1971gophercatcher]

I am currently converting my Power Front Disc Rear Drum brakes to hydroboost on my 71 Cheyenne Super. I pulled a hydroboost off a Astro Van. My question is do I need a Proportioning Valve for this new setup?

I am replacing the master cylinder and power steering pump. (Going new on these that would go on 1982 3/4 ton suburban diesel)

Thanks a ton in advance.

[DonLeverton]

Originally Posted by 1971gophercatcher

I am currently converting my Power Front Disc Rear Drum brakes to hydroboost on my 71 Cheyenne Super. I pulled a hydroboost off a Astro Van. My question is do I need a Proportioning Valve for this new setup?

I am replacing the master cylinder and power steering pump. (Going new on these that would go on 1982 3/4 ton suburban diesel)

Thanks a ton in advance.

If I understand you correctly, you had a vacuum booster that was in working order previously?
The way that I understand it, you need a dual master cylinder and a proportioning valve from any disc front / drum rear braking system.
I used a proportioning valve, formed steel brake lines, and mounting bracket from an Astro Van. I like it because it’s neat and compact.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

Yes you still need a proportioning valve with a hydroboost just as you do with a vacuum booster. You should be able to use the same one you had with the vacuum booster.

[mcmlxix]

Just sent you an email .... I bought the booster bracket from you back in 2011 and was using the OEM plate from the donor truck.... Well the other day I ruined the little anti-rotation tab during disassembly.... so I need a replacement plate...

[Captainfab]

I replied to your email.

[Blue hauler]

Have you ever had someone use your hydro boost brackets on a square body truck?
Thank you!

[Captainfab]

Not that I know of, but not everyone tells me what they are doing. There is really no need to use one of my hydroboost mounting plates on a squarebody since the squarebodies were available with hydroboost from the factory. All you need is a hydroboost for a squarebody truck and it'll bolt right up to the factory mounting holes. Additionally using one of these mounting plates will not mount the hydroboost to a squarebody firewall correctly and without modification.

Originally Posted by Blue hauler

Have you ever had someone use your hydro boost brackets on a square body truck?
Thank you!

[Blue hauler]

Thank you for the info!