Cab Clearance Lights

[68gmcdude]

Hi. Bought a decent set of original cab clearance lights for my ’68 GMC. How do the wires run from the lights so they are hidden? My truck doesn't have a headliner. Thanks!

[68panelman]

There are threads on this topic, look up in the search area. I hope you got the correct Yankee 77 cab lights, They look the best, besides the factory fireman in 69 -72. One of those threads has the measurements for drilling and mounting, and harness routing. I'm almost certain there is a 6" on center rule stated by dot at the time. I've seen a lot of pictures of these trucks with cab lights on them not measured out properly and they look like real crap. Take your time do it right.

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by 68panelman

There are threads on this topic, look up in the search area. I hope you got the correct Yankee 77 cab lights, They look the best, besides the factory fireman in 69 -72. One of those threads has the measurements for drilling and mounting, and harness routing. I'm almost certain there is a 6" on center rule stated by dot at the time. I've seen a lot of pictures of these trucks with cab lights on them not measured out properly and they look like real crap. Take your time do it right.

Here are the ones I found. I was told these were the correct ones for 1968.

[68panelman]

Yep, those are the Yankee 77 style

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by 68panelman

Yep, those are the Yankee 77 style

Thanks. I'll search for the previous threads. I definitely want to get the measurements correct.

[68panelman]

I'll dig through my shop manuals to check for the illustration of install. I believe these are downloadable now also

[Sicklajoie]

Not to split hairs, but these are the factory cab lights for our trucks.
https://swclassics.com/cab-marker-li...40ZzaNQToNEoZc

[68panelman]

I found this one, looks like maybe from LMC or Golden State pick up. Definitely double check with another factory image from a GM manual before committing to drill

[68panelman]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

Not to split hairs, but these are the factory cab lights for our trucks.
https://swclassics.com/cab-marker-li...40ZzaNQToNEoZc

Yes, those are correct for 69-72. The Yankee 77 style was 67-68

[LockDoc]

-
Check some of the threads here:

https://www.google.com/search?domain...SggQAhgCIAIoAg

Everything you ever wanted to know about cab lights.

Here is a picture of the wiring channel hole you are looking for....
.

[68gmcdude]

Here is a picture of the wiring channel hole you are looking for....
.[/QUOTE]

So I am not restoring my truck. Is there a trick to running the wires between the roof panel and the headliner panel? Does it then run down the A-pillar? Here is my truck.

[LockDoc]

-

So I am not restoring my truck. Is there a trick to running the wires between the roof panel and the headliner panel? Does it then run down the A-pillar? Here is my truck.

Read some of the threads in the link I posted above, your answers are there.

Short answers are yes, and yes....

[ryans69chevy]

My '69 came with lights - the roof panel has elevated flat spots where the lights go so the gasket is sealed better. Not sure if previous years came like that from factory - just something to think about. I removed my outer roof panel to fix all the rust and ran a pull wire through before welding back up. If I hadn't removed the panel, I would have fished an 18/2 solid stat wire cable from the drivers side cab light down the A pillar and then used the same type of cable and formed a hook on the end and stick it through the hole on the side of the dash into the A pillar to hook the wire a pull it through. Hope that all makes sense.

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

My '69 came with lights - the roof panel has elevated flat spots where the lights go so the gasket is sealed better. Not sure if previous years came like that from factory - just something to think about. I removed my outer roof panel to fix all the rust and ran a pull wire through before welding back up. If I hadn't removed the panel, I would have fished an 18/2 solid stat wire cable from the drivers side cab light down the A pillar and then used the same type of cable and formed a hook on the end and stick it through the hole on the side of the dash into the A pillar to hook the wire a pull it through. Hope that all makes sense.

Thanks for the input. From what I'm gathering, years '67 and '68 were flat roofs like mine. Starting in’69 the went to the bump on the roof. Wiring looks to be the same though.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

My '69 came with lights - the roof panel has elevated flat spots where the lights go so the gasket is sealed better. Not sure if previous years came like that from factory

Only 69-72 with the U01 RPO came with the raised light pad roof. 69 had the "hockey puck" style lenses and 70-72 had the "fireman's hat" style lenses. 67-68 roof was flat and factory clearance lights were the Yankee 77 style as mentioned above.

[68panelman]

Originally Posted by 68gmcdude

Here is a picture of the wiring channel hole you are looking for....
.

So I am not restoring my truck. Is there a trick to running the wires between the roof panel and the headliner panel? Does it then run down the A-pillar? Here is my truck.[/QUOTE]

What a beautiful truck. Reminds me of my 67. The cab lights will look great with the patina they currently have. I've only seen them in chrome and these look painted silver, they go great.

[c30]

There is going to be three holes drilled for each light. Two are the screw holes for fastening. The third hole, maybe 5/8" to 3/4" diameter, is drilled directly under the light socket for pulling wires. From the large hole on the drivers side you should be able to get a glimpse of the access hole to the A pillar. Whether you fish the wires up or down is up to you.
I would prefer to run two wires, hot and ground, instead of relying on the mounting screws to make the ground.

[68gmcdude]

[QUOTE=What a beautiful truck. Reminds me of my 67. The cab lights will look great with the patina they currently have. I've only seen them in chrome and these look painted silver, they go great.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the compliment. It's an all original truck I bought out of California 8 years ago. It has an inline 250 with a 3 on the tree, manual steering and manual drum brakes. Great little truck with only 58k miles on it. Still had the build sheet behind the seat. Was built at the Fremont, CA plant and spent it's entire life only 1-2 hours from the plant until I brought it to Ohio. Was originally sold at Dexter Pontiac-GMC in San Rafael, Ca. I turned it into a shop truck with my uncle's Gulf station on the doors that he owned from the 40s through the early 80s. Besides adding the cab clearance lights I'll also be adding a Unity spotlight.

[PbFut]

Somewhere I posted about my effort to run wire the factory route. I spent 2 days, walking away a few times so I didn't take a hammer to the roof. Things I learned.
1) The factory route down the A pillar may not always work. Or I just didn't have the touch. The factory mount hole for the visor gives you a little better access.
2) Single wire. Roof and mount screws are the ground.
3) Use a long line of the flat dental floss. A shop vac at your destination point and feed the floss from the visor hole. The air flow will pull the floss through the passage to the vacuum. Sounds crazy but it works very well.
4) I had to abandon the A pillar (both sides) and went the longer route into the B pillar. 2 days on the A pillar with no success. 15 minutes on the B pillar with the floss trick.

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Somewhere I posted about my effort to run wire the factory route. I spent 2 days, walking away a few times so I didn't take a hammer to the roof. Things I learned.
1) The factory route down the A pillar may not always work. Or I just didn't have the touch. The factory mount hole for the visor gives you a little better access.
2) Single wire. Roof and mount screws are the ground.
3) Use a long line of the flat dental floss. A shop vac at your destination point and feed the floss from the visor hole. The air flow will pull the floss through the passage to the vacuum. Sounds crazy but it works very well.
4) I had to abandon the A pillar (both sides) and went the longer route into the B pillar. 2 days on the A pillar with no success. 15 minutes on the B pillar with the floss trick.

Thanks for the tips. Greatly appreciated. One of the links a saw showed using an air hose to help blow the feed string down the A pillar.

[PbFut]

Compressed air got me no where. Vacuum worked well. Could not get Vacuum in position for good suction on A piller. Easy to jam vacuum hose up the B pilar and create strong pull. The light weight floss just flutters in the air flow right into the vacuum hose. Then its a simple feed from there. Down B pillar to the path of your dome light wires to your connection point. Good idea to fuse the wire as there are lots of chafing opportunities on the run.

[68gmcdude]

Does anyone know what the replacement bulb number is for the teardrop lights? I cleaned up the bulbs but there are no numbers on them. I tested all the lights and they all work. Gonna clean up the contacts and get some new bulbs before installing but can't figure out which ones they are. I see several that look the same size but are different numbers. Not sure which ones are the correct ones.

[68panelman]

Originally Posted by 68gmcdude

Does anyone know what the replacement bulb number is for the teardrop lights? I cleaned up the bulbs but there are no numbers on them. I tested all the lights and they all work. Gonna clean up the contacts and get some new bulbs before installing but can't figure out which ones they are. I see several that look the same size but are different numbers. Not sure which ones are the correct ones.

If my memory serves me correctly, I believe it is a 97 bulb

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 68gmcdude

Does anyone know what the replacement bulb number is for the teardrop lights? I cleaned up the bulbs but there are no numbers on them. I tested all the lights and they all work. Gonna clean up the contacts and get some new bulbs before installing but can't figure out which ones they are. I see several that look the same size but are different numbers. Not sure which ones are the correct ones.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=829820&page=6 Post #131.

This is what I used for new pigtails and bulbs. They worked good. You might have to cross reference the bulb number....
.

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=829820&page=6 Post #131.

This is what I used for new pigtails and bulbs. They worked good. You might have to cross reference the bulb number....
.

Thanks for the link and info. I ordered the pigtails and bulbs. Better to make sure everything is in good shape before mounting and hooking up.