47-55.1 Kingpin/spindle bushing question

[Frankthetank.]

So I’m rebuilding the kingpins on my 52, I bought a kit from speedway that says it’s for 47-59 1/2 ton truck. Everything was fine till I took apart the driver side. It had what I’m assuming is a factory bearing between the bottom of the spindle & the axle.

The kit I got from speedway does not have this bearing & I doubt I’m expected to use the original. I also read in one of the questions asked by another buyer that had the same issue, speedway says that someone must of stuck that bearing in there cause it’s correct for the Chevy cars but not the trucks.

I broke out the 47-54 assembly manual but I do not think it covers the axle at least not that I noticed.

Can anyone that’s rebuilt one of these verify that the 47-53 take a bearing?

[nvrdone]

Just looked at the axle on my '49. Yes there is a bearing between the spindle and the bottom of the axle. Looks like Speedway's kit was short 1 bearing. Let them know and they most likely will send you a new kit.

[dsraven]

yup, the thrust bearing takes the weight of the truck and allows a more easily turned steering. let them know it's missing. if there is play between the spindle and axle after assembly then shims go between the axle and the spindle on the TOP side of the axle. some have an O ring to seal between the bearing and the spindle as well, so grease can get in there when the lower bushing is greased. always jack the truck up when greasing the kingpins so that weight is removed from the bushings and grease can get where it needs to be. let the grease squeeze out till nice clean grease is seen, then stop greasing and wipe offf the extra

[Frankthetank.]

Thanks guys. I looked through a bunch of catalogs I had stashed away from when I first got this project. All of them for the king pin sets, for 47-54 have a bearing listed like the one I pulled out of the truck. Speedway is wrong in their listing this kit I got as 47-59.

It’s more like 55 second series to 59 from what I’ve seen in the same catalogs. I did end up ordering the correct one from the filling station up in Oregon. I hope others see this before they end up like me, with the front end in the air & disassembled & a wrong kit

[dsraven]

pete and jakes hotrods has a youtube on the kingpin installation
brothers trucks also has one
some 58-59 bearings look different and are not a bearing with rollers, more like washers that have grooves for grease

[Frankthetank.]

Originally Posted by dsraven

pete and jakes hotrods has a youtube on the kingpin installation
brothers trucks also has one
some 58-59 bearings look different and are not a bearing with rollers, more like washers that have grooves for grease

Yeah the later model assembly pieces are funky. I’ve been going off of the brothers video. I don’t think I’ve come across the pete & Jake’s video yet but I’ll look it up. I was good & ready to go Saturday, I even tore the driver side apart but I guess that’s kind of my fault for not looking at the rebuild kit I got from speedway.

[dsraven]

If you think about WHY there is a roller bearing there it makes sense to have one. And the shims above the axle just take up the extra space to stop potential clunking and hammering on that roller bearing. But, then if you overthink it, you can see why, back in the day with not so smooth roads and trucks that carried along of weight, it also made sense to use washers with grease grooves. A roller bearing may have taken some good hits and had flat spots on the rollers.

[Frankthetank.]

Originally Posted by dsraven

If you think about WHY there is a roller bearing there it makes sense to have one. And the shims above the axle just take up the extra space to stop potential clunking and hammering on that roller bearing. But, then if you overthink it, you can see why, back in the day with not so smooth roads and trucks that carried along of weight, it also made sense to use washers with grease grooves. A roller bearing may have taken some good hits and had flat spots on the rollers.

Makes sense, I actually for a brief moment considered using my old worn bearings with the rest of the kit out of impatience but then reasoning kicked in & I thought, oh well time waisted but I’ll put this job on pause & order the correct kit & send this one back. I’ll post some update photos if I can upload them here when I get it done hopefully this weekend.

[dsraven]

Some kits have a very thin o ring that goes between the upper part of spindle and the axle to slow water etc from coming in. Grease still gets past. Possibly another one above the bearing too. Important to get shims correct so minimal up and down play. I usually use a fine flat file to get surfaces flat and smooth.

[Frankthetank.]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Some kits have a very thin o ring that goes between the upper part of spindle and the axle to slow water etc from coming in. Grease still gets past. Possibly another one above the bearing too. Important to get shims correct so minimal up and down play. I usually use a fine flat file to get surfaces flat and smooth.

I have a couple of files though I don’t recall how gritty or smooth they are. I’m going to break them out & give the suspension a couple of passes with them.👍🏽

[dsraven]

A flat single cut file will leave the smoothest surface. Set it on the part and let it find its level so it is parallel to the surface, then start your job. Watching it to keep the surface parallel to what it was. A felt marker rubber on the surface first will help you detect where ghe file is removing metal. Some soapstone or chalk rubbed on the file helps to not plug it up. Starr with an oil/grease free surface.

[mr48chev]

Both kits that Rock Auto lists for AD trucks shows the bearings.

I'd have to look at the axles that I have in the morning but am pretty well positive that the bearing goes between the bottom of the axle and the spindle as that is where the weight of the truck rides.

The shop manual says that the bearing goes below the axle. I've always put the shim between the bearing and the bearing and the spindle if I needed one.

The good kits need the bushings pressed into the spindle and then honed to fit the king pins on a Sunnen hone.

[dsraven]

as a heavy duty mechanic I have done lots of kingpins on semi trucks. I have always placed the shims above the axle because they seem to get pounded out if placed below. they are pretty thin material. I assemble the parts, place the jack under the spindle near the kingpin and apply a little pressure, enough to push the spindle up and take up any clearance between the spindle, bearing and the axle. then slide shims between the axle and the upper part of the spindle untill you get that space pretty much sized for how much shim pack is required. then remove the jack and push the kingpin down far enough so the shims can be skid into the space above the axle. when done slide the kingpin back up and align the pin with the wedge bolt hole.

[Frankthetank.]

I finished the job Saturday, everything went fairly smooth. But, I know I know on the passenger side when I lined everything up & installed the horizontal threaded pins that lock everything down, the nut wouldn’t tighten down, it just kept spinning. Not sure if it stripped somehow or what. I need to go take another look at it later this week. I did keep the two old ones just incase.

[dsraven]

those tapered pins get hammered in, then the nut is just to ensure they don't back themselves out. it's not like they are doing a big heavy job or holding a lot of weight, etc. they just hold the kingpin from moving in the axle

[mr48chev]

Dsraven is 100% correct you have to line the flats of the king pin and the retainer pin up and then drive the retainer pin in with a hammer and then tighten the nut up.

Remember to put the stops back on under the nut and lock washer so the wheels won't turn too far lock to lock like mine do because who ever put my axle together (my buddy Ron ) didn't put the stops back on.