A few questions about a C10

[micha912]

Hello from Germany. I don't know if the Facebook group of the same name is related to this forum, but lately, questions there have been stuck in the approval process for days, which I find counterproductive for a technical forum where you expect a quick answer. So, here are my questions.

First: If I want to retrofit a brake booster to my 1969 C10, the brake lines are too short. Are extensions available, or do I have to have the lines completely remade? Unfortunately, I can't find any kits for drum/drum brakes – can I retrofit Hydroboost? I use the truck as a daily driver in Berlin – with all the idiots here, you need good brakes.

Second: I don't know what the previous owners of my 1969 C10 had installed, but now I need to replace the transmission cover. Unfortunately, I can only find high-hump covers everywhere, not the flat one that's already installed. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks a lot.

[Getter-Done]

This link to a Helpful thread to change your low to a high hump may help.

Since you have high hump covers available this would be an easy route. IMO.

Link low hump to high hump : https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...tall+high+hump

Hope this helps.

[micha912]

Hello and thank you for the very informative link .
I don't know why a hole was cut into my low hump. I initially suspected it was originally a floor shifter. I also couldn't detect any contact between my TH350C and the hump. Therefore, I would like to keep the low-profile tunnel if possible. I have found sources for a high-hump.

[MellowYellow70]

Are you able to use a welder and grinder/cutoff wheel? If so, I would just patch the hole, paint and forget about it.

Otherwise, there is no low hump replacement panel I've ever seen, other than the whole floor assembly.

[micha912]

That's what I'll do. I noticed that some of the edges of the sheet metal were only bent downwards. If I put everything back into its original position, it might not close the entire hole, but it will make the job a bit easier. I have a welder and a grinder.

[c30]

You could extend the lines with brass couplers, but I would replace the lines to the master cylinder. Buy them premade or make them yourself. Dont know much about the hydroboost but a vacuum booster and new master would be easy.
Make a patch panel for the floor that is slightly larger than the hole. lay it on there and scribe around the perimeter. Cut it out and weld it in. Done

[micha912]

Thank you very much. I don't know if the Clay Smith cam in the 383 I'm currently building will generate sufficient vacuum, hence my question about the Hydro Boost. No booster is installed from the factory.

[LockDoc]

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I don't know if you can use a Hydroboost unit on drum/drum brakes or not. If you decide to try it, or you change the front drums to disk, here is how I did mine on my project truck with disk front/drum rear.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...829820&page=12

Starts at post #284 and covers a couple of pages....

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by micha912

Thank you very much. I don't know if the Clay Smith cam in the 383 I'm currently building will generate sufficient vacuum, hence my question about the Hydro Boost. No booster is installed from the factory.

What’s the specs on your clay smith cam?

[micha912]

Hello. I've attached a screenshot with the camshaft data. The intake is a WEIAND Dual Plane Action Plus 8004, and the carburetor is a Qjet R4-M4MC. Heads are AFR 195cc enforcer.

[geezer#99]

Thanks for that!
With a lobe separation of 108 degrees you will indeed be down in vacuum.

Likely near 10-12hg.
What transmission you going to run?

[micha912]

I've rebuild the TH350 "C" that was installed when I imported the truck and I'm going to try that. However, I also have a rebuild TH700 from my old C1500 lying around.

[LS short box]

Looks like he is going with a 350 turbo. And I agree with that cam vacuum the is going to be lacking. Also with that cam you might consider a stall torque converter maybe in the 2500 rpm range?
My go to guy for brake advice is Tobin at KORE3.com.
If the brake lines are original I would replace all of them with a kit made for your application or fab new. I use Ni-Copp brake line that I fab from straight stock. It flares like butter.

[pjmoreland]

About 30 years ago, I added a power brake booster to a '67 C/10 I used to own that up to that point had manual brakes. I simply removed the clamp that secured the lines to the frame and bent the lines forward enough to make room for the booster and firewall attachment brackets. I'm not saying it was the best or cleanest way to do it, but it worked. I drove that truck for another eight years after that without incident.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

About 30 years ago, I added a power brake booster to a '67 C/10 I used to own that up to that point had manual brakes. I simply removed the clamp that secured the lines to the frame and bent the lines forward enough to make room for the booster and firewall attachment brackets. I'm not saying it was the best or cleanest way to do it, but it worked. I drove that truck for another eight years after that without incident.

I did the same thing with my White '67 with the 454/TH400 years ago and it worked good..... Never even had to bleed the brakes.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

About 30 years ago, I added a power brake booster to a '67 C/10 I used to own that up to that point had manual brakes. I simply removed the clamp that secured the lines to the frame and bent the lines forward enough to make room for the booster and firewall attachment brackets. I'm not saying it was the best or cleanest way to do it, but it worked. I drove that truck for another eight years after that without incident.

I wondered about those lengths. The lines on my 70 would have reached the combo valve. It's closer to the crossmember, so IIRC, the run to the tee would be shorter

[micha912]

Hi everyone, and thanks for all the input. That gives me something to work with.

@LS short box: I'm planning on using a Boss Hog Street Bandit Torque Converter 2400-2800.

[geezer#99]

What’s your rear gear ratio?
The th700 might be the better choice depending on rear gear ratio.

[micha912]

3:42 with G80

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by micha912

3:42 with G80

In my opinion that’s the perfect gear regardless of transmission used.

[micha912]

I think so too. In my daily driver, a '96 Tahoe 2-door K1500, I have a 3.73 gear ratio and the 4L60E trans. With that, I can comfortably cruise at 180 km/h at 3,400 rpm, and there's still some headroom, but who needs that every day? I think the C10 will be ready to be started for the first time next winter – I'll certainly have a few more questions by then ;-) Regards, Micha