![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: G.R., Michigan
Posts: 90
|
Is this brake pedal to booster rod setup safe?
1960 Chevy C10
I m in the process of converting to power brakes. I have the booster and the new master cylinder mounted. Trying to figure out how to come up with a rod to come from the brake pedal to the booster rod. Is having two pivot points as shown in this picture safe? When the bolt side is loose the two rods want to pivot downward and not push the booster rod end. When I tighten the bolt it does want to go in and out straight but how safe is that down the road driving? Should I be pulling everything back off and then welding that bolt pivot point together so it cannot pivot at all? Also I thought I remember something about moving the connection point to the brake pedal now that it's power brakes for a different brake ratio does anyone have an easy answer of what I'm supposed to do or just leave it as is and give it a try? The master cylinders is for a 68 C10 with drum drum setup and that's what I'm keeping for now. There is not an external proportionate valve or distribution block my impression was this type of master cylinder would have that built in for the drum drum setup. Is that correct or do I need a type of external distribution valve? The Internet search reply when I searched is this: For a four-wheel drum brake setup, a proportioning valve is generally not required because drum systems receive equal pressure to all wheels. Drum brakes are self-energizing and use different sized wheel cylinders to balance braking. However, a residual pressure valve (typically 10 psi) is necessary to keep drum shoes engaged. Thank you Last edited by Leinhit; 02-07-2026 at 08:06 PM. |
|
|
|
| Bookmarks |
|
|