Is this brake pedal to booster rod setup safe?

[Leinhit]

1960 Chevy C10

I m in the process of converting to power brakes. I have the booster and the new master cylinder mounted.

Trying to figure out how to come up with a rod to come from the brake pedal to the booster rod. Is having two pivot points as shown in this picture safe?

When the bolt side is loose the two rods want to pivot downward and not push the booster rod end. When I tighten the bolt it does want to go in and out straight but how safe is that down the road driving?

Should I be pulling everything back off and then welding that bolt pivot point together so it cannot pivot at all?

Also I thought I remember something about moving the connection point to the brake pedal now that it's power brakes for a different brake ratio does anyone have an easy answer of what I'm supposed to do or just leave it as is and give it a try?

The master cylinders is for a 68 C10 with drum drum setup and that's what I'm keeping for now. There is not an external proportionate valve or distribution block my impression was this type of master cylinder would have that built in for the drum drum setup. Is that correct or do I need a type of external distribution valve?

The Internet search reply when I searched is this:
For a four-wheel drum brake setup, a proportioning valve is generally not required because drum systems receive equal pressure to all wheels. Drum brakes are self-energizing and use different sized wheel cylinders to balance braking. However, a residual pressure valve (typically 10 psi) is necessary to keep drum shoes engaged.

Thank you

[cj847]

I'll start:

I would not drive that set up. Get one of these kits and make it where you only have a straight rod between the pedal and the master.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14478626615...9d30b46383fbf8

I am not sure about whether the master will work or not, but it's worth a shot.
I doubt you will have good braking without a combination valve.

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Proport...67889252&psc=1

[Leinhit]

I appreciate the reply..

The eBay link u sent is not working..

The valve you sent in Amazon is a disk/ drum setup.. I have a drum / drum setup.. thus the question I have about if the master cylinder i have being made for a drum / drum setup, will it already have the proper proportional pressure to both front and rear systems built in..?

I'll keep checking the ebay link, or if you could repost it

Thank you

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Leinhit

I have a drum / drum setup.. thus the question I have about if the master cylinder i have being made for a drum / drum setup, will it already have the proper proportional pressure to both front and rear systems ?

Thank you

Yes - with drum/drum the proportioning is designed in via the wheel cylinder diameters.

No additional prop valve is required.

K

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Leinhit

1960 Chevy C10

I m in the process of converting to power brakes. I have the booster and the new master cylinder mounted.

Trying to figure out how to come up with a rod to come from the brake pedal to the booster rod. Is having two pivot points as shown in this picture safe?

When the bolt side is loose the two rods want to pivot downward and not push the booster rod end. When I tighten the bolt it does want to go in and out straight but how safe is that down the road driving?

Should I be pulling everything back off and then welding that bolt pivot point together so it cannot pivot at all?

Also I thought I remember something about moving the connection point to the brake pedal now that it's power brakes for a different brake ratio does anyone have an easy answer of what I'm supposed to do or just leave it as is and give it a try?

The master cylinders is for a 68 C10 with drum drum setup and that's what I'm keeping for now. There is not an external proportionate valve or distribution block my impression was this type of master cylinder would have that built in for the drum drum setup. Is that correct or do I need a type of external distribution valve?

The Internet search reply when I searched is this:
For a four-wheel drum brake setup, a proportioning valve is generally not required because drum systems receive equal pressure to all wheels. Drum brakes are self-energizing and use different sized wheel cylinders to balance braking. However, a residual pressure valve (typically 10 psi) is necessary to keep drum shoes engaged.

Thank you

No - I would not drive that set up. There is nothing keeping both linkages on a straight line. I would be concerned the bolted attachment would drop down, messing up the axial load and changing the overall length of the linkage.

K

[Leinhit]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Yes - with drum/drum the proportioning is designed in via the wheel cylinder diameters.

No additional prop valve is required.

K

Thank you!

Now onto making that rod safer.. I'm thinking welding blankets and some welds on that 2 eyelets to lock it together

[cj847]

Here is another push rod kit

https://www.amazon.com/SEBLAFF-CI556...8e2e59140020f4

Sorry about the combo valve. I would think it would work without it.

One thing you will need to check is the clearance between the master cylinder and the booster. You will need this tool.

https://www.amazon.com/BARTOO-Adjust...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

You will probably need this to fill to fill the gap

https://www.cjponyparts.com/master-c...ng%20(Tier%201)

[Leinhit]

I have that same tool for checking the rod length between the master and the booster. I think I am good there.

I got the adapter plate from Captain fab.

And I actually bought I think the same exact rod kit I'm just trying to figure out a piece it all together and not have those two pivot points... I did think about cutting the eyelets off and threading the rods so I could just have a couple in the middle. However when checking the size the rod from the booster is slightly thicker than the rod that comes in the kit.

So if I thread them I don't think they will come out to be the same size , maybe they make a couple it has a reducer...

[geezer#99]

This is how you should be set up.

https://mpbrakes.com/bellcrank-class...a5fcEbAribun7x

[Leinhit]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

No - I would not drive that set up. There is nothing keeping both linkages on a straight line. I would be concerned the bolted attachment would drop down, messing up the axial load and changing the overall length of the linkage.

K

I have the same concern. So I'm thinking if I welded the two rods where the Isla and the bolt goes through them would take that second pivot out and no longer a fear of dropping and losing forward motion

[Leinhit]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

This is how you should be set up.

https://mpbrakes.com/bellcrank-class...a5fcEbAribun7x

I don't have a bell crank housing. I do have the bracket from Captain Fab so the booster is not mounted directly to the firewall.

The braking ratio is what I was vaguely remembering and you addressed with that setup..

I thought I read something about drilling a new hole through the brake pedal bracket and lowering or lifting the new pivot point some..

Right now the way the rod goes to the booster is pretty straight from the pedal through the firewall.

[raidmagic]

Originally Posted by Leinhit

I have the same concern. So I'm thinking if I welded the two rods where the Isla and the bolt goes through them would take that second pivot out and no longer a fear of dropping and losing forward motion

I would just weld them together and be done with it

[Leinhit]

Originally Posted by raidmagic

I would just weld them together and be done with it

I did just that. Out of being paranoid it was the thickest ugly weld I ever done. It's been as much time grinding it back down to make it look somewhat presentable.

Brakes in the shop feel great I can't test outside because we still have a ton of snow and ice here in michigan.

The next test will be how touchy the brakes are and if I need to change the position of the rock going to the pedal...

Thank you everyone that helped with this question... Now on to install the seatbelts