Roller rocker hitting stud shoulder….

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by PICKMUP

You need to go to a "good" machine shop that does performance engine work on a regular basis. They will have the right answers and the right equipment to do the job.
It helps if you do the clearance checking using either a light testing valve spring or a solid lifter that sits the push rod in the same position as the hydrolic. The heavy springs may be pushing the lifter down at full lift/pressure.

I'm going to the machine shop today and will pick up two solid lifters.
the concern here is it's not quite the same as the ones I'm using.
so he's my idea. I'll get mine and measure the difference. I can turn them on the lathe to make it a little shorter, or tack on some metal on the bottom, then turn them down to size.
s/t

[PICKMUP]

I just get another hyd lifter...open it up...pull out the guts and replace them with a solid plug so everything stays the same.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by PICKMUP

I just get another hyd lifter...open it up...pull out the guts and replace them with a solid plug so everything stays the same.

that is a great idea! I have the old ones out there. I'll go make some!

I talked to the machine shop about milling my heads. $100 I need to get the guide plates and studs. he said the plates that raise up help to stabilize the rocker stem better? Any ideas on this?
s/t

[glock35ipsc]

He's probably talking about these:

[Billla]

I'm just reading through this and had a couple of thoughts.

DEFINITELY agree that if you're running non-self-aligned rockers and no guideplates you're toast. You must have one or the other - period. Note that if you run guideplates, you must run hardened pushrods.

Other than machining the boss, the only other option I can think of is longer pushrods + lash caps to keep the geometry right.

I agree with your shop - the right approach is to go with the guide plates and the shoulder studs...and hardened pushrods.

[Sport/Truck]

Update:
I got a stud extractor & pulled off my studs. My concern was the holes weren’t going to drilled/taped deep enough. Causing concern with gong in threaded holes to drill and re-tap without destroying the existing threads.
The good news is all the holes are taped completely. So all that is needed it to machine the bosses!

I looked at ARP studs and they show a taller stud for use with roller rockers. I think they recommend them because people use stud girdles? Do you think the standard length will work? The standard ARP is a bit longer than what I removed, and I didn’t see where the studs were too short (plenty of thread for the locks).
I’ll be using Summit brand raised guide plates (mainly because they are out of stock with other brands)
What do you think of this combination?
s/t

[clay68c10]

Sounds good. The standard length should work. The longer studs are for a stud girdle. I've used the summit brand on more than a few things and never had any problems.

[Sport/Truck]

That's what I thought. Thanks for the reply.
s/t