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07-20-2011, 09:57 PM | #26 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
measure the height on each side see if one side is higher than the other .that drop spindle set up did you get your springs setting in the right spot ..?
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is it fast ? it has a lighting bolt donut? B___H please, I can remove 90% of your so called "beauty" with a kleenex |
07-20-2011, 10:05 PM | #27 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
That was going by memory which is why I mentioned 'about'. I just checked my 89 dually & there's enough room to pass my fingertips through from side to side.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
07-21-2011, 09:18 PM | #28 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
I measured the pitman arms on both the power and manual setups I have. They are both the same size.
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07-21-2011, 10:00 PM | #29 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
That's weird. They usually list 2 different p/n's for these (1= power; 1= manual). I always thought they must be different lengths but I've dealt mostly w/manual steer trucks.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
07-23-2011, 03:55 PM | #30 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
? have you made any modifications, the reason i as is, your setup looks exactly like mine and i have sectioned my crossmember, will post a pic if required
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07-23-2011, 10:02 PM | #31 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
i have dropped spindles and airbags, but i don't see how that would affect anything. If you unbolt the tie rods from the center link, the link should still be out of whack (unless i'm missing something). From what i can tell, the pitman and the idler arms keep the centerlink in place.....
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1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd |
07-23-2011, 11:42 PM | #32 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
One or more of the components are wrong for your application or installed wrong. You'll have to recheck and triple check all of the parts if needed. There have been many of these threads in the past where the party says all of the parts are correct and it's still rubbing the cross member, then it comes to light, wrong parts or not installed correctly Drop or no drop, if all the parts are correct and installed correctly, for the application there will be room between the drag link and cross member and the two will be parallel. Sorry, but that's the facts man.
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07-24-2011, 03:54 PM | #33 | |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
Quote:
I think your parts are ok, I put a C10 suspension in a 58 and ran into a lot of alignment issues. Measure from the rear upper or lower control arm bolt back to a spot on the frame like the cab mount to make sure your cross member is square to the frame. I used the upper rear A frame shim bolt to the cab mount. The holes in the frame and crossmember are not a real tigt fit so if your forward on one side and back on the other you ca get 1/2" difference you see on the drag link. The correct spacing on the center link is where ever it ends up. Meaning if the rod ends are parrallel with the center link your ok and where ever it ends up near the member is where it ends up as long as it does not rub anything. The picture is with 2.5" drops |
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09-08-2011, 06:53 PM | #34 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
I got out to my truck today and did some quick measurements. My pitman arm is 5 1/4" center to center. I measured center of the cross link to the first holes on the frame (where the sway bar bracket bolt goes) on both sides and the driver side distance was 1/4" longer (making it hit the cross member). We loosened up all the bolts on the cross member and i tried smacking it backwards on the driver side but it wouldn't budge. I also tried moving the steering box and the idler arms but there is no play there. What is going on here?
* i'm wondering if my frame is a bit out of square, would that make a difference*
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1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd Last edited by 72gmcshorty; 09-08-2011 at 07:13 PM. |
09-08-2011, 07:16 PM | #35 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
can someone give me measurements from the center of the cross link to the center of the sway bar bracket bolts?
Do the bolts that hold the idler arm stick out or into the frame? Is there supposed to be any washers on those bolts?
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1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd |
09-14-2011, 04:31 PM | #36 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
can someone tell me the length of the idler arm (center to center), please
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1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd |
09-15-2011, 09:06 AM | #37 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
I can help with the lenght of idler arm.
But i have to ask. Did you take both sides loose? Is the engine in the truck? Both will hold you up when trying to move it around. You must loosen both sides take the weight off the front end to get it to move. It is alot easier when the drive line is out of the truck. Some times hitting it with a hammer is not going to do it. Sorry i cant help you more. I would say the parts are not your problem. If the fromt member is not square then you need to start with that... |
09-15-2011, 09:38 AM | #38 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
I was hoping someone would post up the info by now. I should have a 68 manual steering spec idler in my storage unit. I can get by there after work tonight if the info isn't up by then.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
09-15-2011, 11:45 AM | #39 | |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
There is no motor or driveline. We loosened the entire crossmember. Might have to do it again.
Quote:
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09-15-2011, 11:47 AM | #40 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
I hope it would be the same for a 72 2wd with power steering. Could you also take a look at the idler arm bracket and tell me if it bends upwards and away from the frame (i have only seen them bend upwards and stay in line with the frame).
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09-15-2011, 12:22 PM | #41 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
The set-up I have is sitting loose & off the truck (it was removed because it was no longer required after a swap to PB's Dropmember).
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
09-15-2011, 12:48 PM | #42 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
Idler arm on my 68 manual steering is 5 3/8" cl-cl.
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11-02-2011, 07:32 PM | #43 |
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Re: Center link rubbing crossmember
Finally figured out what the issue was. I have my front end all apart, so I yanked the steering center link. Not easy to tell on the truck, but once off you can see it has a noticeable bend on the drivers side of the straight segment.
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