HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...

[LostMy65]

I've been reading lots of threads on Sectioning, Z-Frame, and Notching the Crossmember.
It took me awhile to visualize what is happening with each option, and I really like the Sectioning method the best for one major reason. The Crossmember Notch, and Z'-Frame both raise the motor. Or I should say; lower the body and frame down without lowering the motor in relation to the drop.
But with the Sectioning of the Crossmember, the motor drops along with the frame and body.
For many of us 60-66 guys, this works out better. Because a lot of us running an HEI are already right up against the firewall with the cap. Lowering the body and frame without lowering the motor could cause us some issues with our distributor caps hitting the firewall.

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I've been reading lots of threads on Sectioning, Z-Frame, and Notching the Crossmember.
It took me awhile to visualize what is happening with each option, and I really like the Sectioning method the best for one major reason. The Crossmember Notch, and Z'-Frame both raise the motor. Or I should say; lower the body and frame down without lowering the motor in relation to the drop.
But with the Sectioning of the Crossmember, the motor drops along with the frame and body.
For many of us 60-66 guys, this works out better. Because a lot of us running an HEI are already right up against the firewall with the cap. Lowering the body and frame without lowering the motor could cause us some issues with our distributor caps hitting the firewall.

If you move the engine forward. You can solve that issue and create newer ones with possible recessing radiator or going with electric fans. Everything causes some type of issue. Sectioning will cause steering issues. Either way you choose it can be worked out. I'm going to section my xmember without Z.

[jjzepplin]

You are right sir. We all become GM engineers at some point in our builds. This site brings all of us together. Not sure I would tackle this. But I'm thinkin about it.

[rico12410]

thank you very much for the write up chief!

[PowerdbyChevy79]

trying to give this thread some life!!! ..hey chief...did you ever finish the burban..

[ChiefRocka]

Thanks man ....

Not yet, but it's going pretty good.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Cool cant wait to see some pics...
Ok question...is putting a crossmember from a 71 a bolt in and then just transfer all the steering over (a-arms,draglink,pitman,idler arm) and what about the back..i have no experience with torsion bar set up.im buying a 60 panel and i want to drop it...

[WEBBY1]

This thread helped me quite a bit

[Chevy Fleetside]

Need to take a cruize down to your neck of the woods with Luca some weekend.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by PowerdbyChevy79

Cool cant wait to see some pics...
Ok question...is putting a crossmember from a 71 a bolt in and then just transfer all the steering over (a-arms,draglink,pitman,idler arm) and what about the back..i have no experience with torsion bar set up.im buying a 60 panel and i want to drop it...

More pics are in the actual build thread ....

The crossmember will swap into a 62 and earlier chassis, but you need to redrill some holes.

This is beneficial in centering the wheel in well in dropped applications
...

Originally Posted by WEBBY1

This thread helped me quite a bit

Im glad !!

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

Need to take a cruize down to your neck of the woods with Luca some weekend.

Anytime .... im headed to Turlock in a few

[doublebeetx]

How does it help in centering the front wheels ?

[ChiefRocka]

By relocating the crossmember about an 1" forward, it centers the wheels in the fender opening.

This would be in dropped, bagged situations

[doublebeetx]

I thought about that, but what do you do about the taper of the frame ? My 64 begins to taper in just ahead of where the crossmember originally bolts in. Sorry to ask too many questions

[64chevtruck]

Hi Chief, Ive done 3 pancakes so far thanks to your writeup, thank you for posting it,

However I have been thinking about moving the CM forward an inch like you mentioned above to center the wheels, does this cause any other issues with steering>?

Thanks again

Have a good week

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by 64chevtruck

Hi Chief, Ive done 3 pancakes so far thanks to your writeup, thank you for posting it,

However I have been thinking about moving the CM forward an inch like you mentioned above to center the wheels, does this cause any other issues with steering>?

Thanks again

Have a good week

Well, as mentioned, you will need to adjust steering box height according to the amount of crossmember section.

While at it, you might as well adjust for forward movement as well.

[wwdd77]

I sectioned my crossmember 1.5" and was changing over to the 90 suburban power steering (my doner truck). With 2.5" drop sprindles and most likely a 1 or 2" spring drop to go along with it, i'd have to raise the steering box like 2.5".

I whacked away at my crossmember and fit in a T-bird R&P. Not saying i won't have bumpsteer, but hopefully it is manageable.

I want to move my crossmember forward to center my wheels in the fender too.
I've been reading threads on moving the lower control arm forward to add Caster, and also moving the entire crossmember a little to finish off centering it in the fender.

i've seen 1" is the dimension, and with the R&P my steering shouldn't be any more off than it already may be since it's all moving together.

What is the dimension to move it forward? i've seen 1" and and also heard 1.5".?

[64chevtruck]

Hi Chief, Thanks for the response, The first CM I sectioned I did 2 inches, I had to shim the CM up a half inch after that, And the motor mounts so it would not interfere with the steering,

After that on the last 2 I did I went 1.5 inches for the section, This made it so the only steering mod needed was a notch in the upper drivers control arm to clear the steering shaft.

My question to you, (and im sorry if youve answered it before, Ive read through your build and must have missed it)

Is if I move my CM forward an inch would it require any more steering mods?

As I typed the question above, I realized moving the CM forward would make the steering shaft hit the upper control arm even more, and would require raising the steering up like you have already said.

Anyway thanks so much for your time posting pics and info.

Have a good week.

[jonzcustomshop]

doing some research and stumbled upon this thread that details the steering w/ this mod...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=649493

[scum1]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

doing some research and stumbled upon this thread that details the steering w/ this mod...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=649493

excellent thread on the steering. nice find.

Bumping this for a quick question...

Im going to be sectioning the xmember only to gain "ground to crossmember clearance, not really to go lower, and I'm also going to cut off the stock upper coil pockets where my current upper bag bolts to, and remake an upper bag plate.


While I'm at it i definitely want to take advantage of moving the xmember forward an inch for looks, and i know thats going to move the engine with it..

it looks like the motor mounts are bolted pretty far back on the xmember as it is, meaning its unlikely i could simply drill a new mounting hole for the motor mount 1" back, if i wanted to try and keep the engine in the same place. is this right?

anyone have any tips for this type of mod..i am limited on drive shaft yoke length, moving my motor/trans forward would leave me with very little yoke attached to the output shaft in case y'all were wondering.

[jonzcustomshop]

I moved mine forward 1 inch, I left the motor in the stock location, and I ended up using the 63-66 OG motor mounts and towers- they only use 1 bolt on the bottom and it lined up w/ the Xmember.
I looked into using the later style mounts but I would have had to fab a mounting plate for the lower bolts.
I also needed to raise my motor up (motor mounts) 1/2 to 3/4 inch to clear the steering which I raised with the Xmember section.
I sectioned the Xmember 2 inches.

this thread-page 11 post 253 for pics:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...646830&page=11

[ChiefRocka]

Indeed....move xmemeber as you wish...and redial hole

[scum1]

you guys are killin it..people always ask me why i change so much stuff when i don't need to..and I'm like why not, having step by steps and info from you guys and others on this board is worth its weight in gold. I appreciate it.

[Wingnut Way]

I’ve been through quiet a few posts and on the moving the cross member forward, I’ve read 1 inch, 1.25 inch and 1.5 inch. More than just on this thread, if your wondering where I have read those measurements. I plan on going one inch. My question is how are you guys measuring the one inch. I may be over thinking it but I wana know before I start drilling holes. Are we talkin one inch forward dead center on the old holes to dead center on all the new holes, or are we talking front edge of old hole to rear edge of new hole. Thanks for the help.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Wingnut Way

I’ve been through quiet a few posts and on the moving the cross member forward, I’ve read 1 inch, 1.25 inch and 1.5 inch. More than just on this thread, if your wondering where I have read those measurements. I plan on going one inch. My question is how are you guys measuring the one inch. I may be over thinking it but I wana know before I start drilling holes. Are we talkin one inch forward dead center on the old holes to dead center on all the new holes, or are we talking front edge of old hole to rear edge of new hole. Thanks for the help.

Generally speaking, when somebody says move a hole one inch forward it's generally referred to as hole "center".

I feel 1" is typically perfect .... but a suspension mock-up for you may be worth doing. Get everything together and cycle the suspension and see if that's where you're going to want to be.

[Wingnut Way]

Thanks for the response. Center to center is what I assumed, I just second guessing myself. I just wanted to hear it from someone who has done it before. I don’t wana have to hang all the tins on it again and measure measure measure. Thanks