Mustang II Steering C Notch

[dsraven]

there are also instructions on the TCI page. there may be instructions on the welders series page as well. they have a link to trucks magazine who did an article on the welders series product-which is a home done kit from scratch where you weld up the supplied bent pieces-it is a colour tech series of pics that is done on the 47-55.1 truck. maybe it will help you out. there are other links there as well.
keep posting the pics, that way if there is something obviously wrong somebody may catch it for you before it is too late. awesome bunch of guys on here.

[Chevy-49]

Originally Posted by 392Hemi

Well I got the c notches and welding all done. Not too shabby for young guy with a grinder and a sawzall haha now I just have to figure out how to build this suspension. Was pretty disappointed it came with no torque specs or instructions.

See link in post 15, torque specs are mentioned in the PDF document

[392Hemi]

No doubt thanks for the help guys. I have the speedway kit and it didn't come with any directions for the suspension so that sucks. Those links should help me though!

[392Hemi]

Had to return a upper control arm today because the holes weren't drilled properly so I couldn't adjust the arms properly. Got the uppers and lowers mounted, hopefully have more of the suspension done tomorrow.

I don't know why all my pictures get posted sideways :/ lol

[392Hemi]

Well got the suspension test mounted. Everything went pretty smooth, only thing that was weird is the upper ball joint nut does not go very tight without passing the whole for the pin. I'll have to use some washers or something, was surprised it didn't come with any for the top. The setup is 2" drop spindles with coilovers by the way.

[yoshi]

Could you get a close up of top ball joint? Thanks

[392Hemi]

Originally Posted by yoshi

Could you get a close up of top ball joint? Thanks

Will do when I go out to my shop next!

[67GMCkid]

Originally Posted by yoshi

Could you get a close up of top ball joint? Thanks

Typical Mopar screw in upper ball joint used as upper and lower ball joints on most if not all aftermarket MII kits.. Do a Google search for Dodge Dart upper ball joint, you will find plenty of picts.

[392Hemi]

Originally Posted by yoshi

Could you get a close up of top ball joint? Thanks

Hopefully this is what you were looking for

[Hakang]

Originally Posted by 392Hemi

Had to return a upper control arm today because the holes weren't drilled properly so I couldn't adjust the arms properly. Got the uppers and lowers mounted, hopefully have more of the suspension done tomorrow.

I don't know why all my pictures get posted sideways :/ lol

Hello
What kind of problem did you have with the holes and adjustment with the upper arm?

I have also problem with the camber adjustment, I have -2.5° camber when the lower arm is level and the upper is all the way in, have also contact with the upper balljoint and spring when the shock are fully extended and also strange balljoint angle. See pic.
I have speedway IFS with ⅝ narrow width control arm, 2 inch dropped spindles, stock style springs and shocks.
Cant understand whats wrong. Seems like the lower control arm is to short for the upper arm.

[aknovaman]

With chassis loaded arms should be positioned like this. Spindle centerline will be 2 inches higher.

[392Hemi]

Originally Posted by Hakang

Hello
What kind of problem did you have with the holes and adjustment with the upper arm?

I have also problem with the camber adjustment, I have -2.5° camber when the lower arm is level and the upper is all the way in, have also contact with the upper balljoint and spring when the shock are fully extended and also strange balljoint angle. See pic.
I have speedway IFS with ⅝ narrow width control arm, 2 inch dropped spindles, stock style springs and shocks.
Cant understand whats wrong. Seems like the lower control arm is to short for the upper arm.

Is the picture with your wheels on the ground?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Hakang]

Originally Posted by 392Hemi

Is the picture with your wheels on the ground?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes, but unloaded, no engine and transm. And the springs are not shortened yet.

[Hakang]

Originally Posted by aknovaman

With chassis loaded arms should be positioned like this. Spindle centerline will be 2 inches higher.

Thanks, great drawing, I will try measureing tomorrow.

[392Hemi]

Originally Posted by Hakang

Yes, but unloaded, no engine and transm. And the springs are not shortened yet.

You need to move that upper arm forward instead of having it back all the way if that's what you were meaning you did with it. Unless you meant when you do that the camber is not right.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Hakang]

Originally Posted by 392Hemi

You need to move that upper arm forward instead of having it back all the way if that's what you were meaning you did with it. Unless you meant when you do that the camber is not right.
Posted via Mobile Device

I mean that I can't get the right camber even when the upper arm is pushed as far as it goes to the center of the vehicle.

Or do I misunderstand you?

[Hakang]

Originally Posted by aknovaman

With chassis loaded arms should be positioned like this. Spindle centerline will be 2 inches higher.

Now I have done some measurement. I don't have the same figures with my IFS (Speedway IFS crossmember, right out of the box, no modifications). My figures in red.

Do you know what brand your drawing shows? Heidts?

Here are my measurement

[392Hemi]

Originally Posted by Hakang

I mean that I can't get the right camber even when the upper arm is pushed as far as it goes to the center of the vehicle.

Or do I misunderstand you?

Are you trying to get negative camber? If you have negative camber right now with the arms slid as far in as they go wouldn't bringing them out get you to neutral? 1-2 degrees is about right

[Hakang]

Originally Posted by 392Hemi

Are you trying to get negative camber? If you have negative camber right now with the arms slid as far in as they go wouldn't bringing them out get you to neutral? 1-2 degrees is about right

Oh, my misstake. Ofcause, I meant that I have 2.5° positive camber when the lower arm is level and the upper is all the way in to the center. I need to decrease the camber 2°. The spec with the IFS instruction say's ½° positive camber.

[392Hemi]

Originally Posted by Hakang

Oh, my misstake. Ofcause, I meant that I have 2.5° positive camber when the lower arm is level and the upper is all the way in to the center. I need to decrease the camber 2°. The spec with the IFS instruction say's ½° positive camber.

Ok now I follow you. Yeah that would make sense for the lower arm to not be out enough. Wonder how it'll be when your motor is in? I have a feeling I'll have the same problem
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[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by aknovaman

With chassis loaded arms should be positioned like this. Spindle centerline will be 2 inches higher.

Great picture !

What is being used for a Bump Stop with coil overs?
We have some very bad ?pot Holes? on our streets and I will need a bump stop with only 1 7/8" of travel

[aknovaman]

Most coil overs have internal bump stops. The drawing is for factory (non-dropped) spindles. They basicly move the centerline up 2 inches and rotate the brake caliper slightly for clearance. Lower arm stays parallel to ground and even/flat with crossmember bottom. I set my truck frame bottom at 13 inches representing half of a 26 inch tall tire to see ride height.