Carb to Fuel Pump Hard Line [Leak at Fuel Pump]

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Those flat washers are the wrong shape.
You need a cone shape to seal.

Take a look at my posting with the YouTube, there is a guy that shows you how to make them with a flange tool...

Also, before I wrote the pointy part of the cone goes towards the pump, pretty sure I said that backwards - the pointy part goes into the steel line - like the fellow shows when making a copper washer to in copper flange seal. Just trying to visualize how the steel line, copper flange washer, and fuel pump/carb connection all go together. Likely once I start doing it, it will make sense!

[Rich72C10]

Holy No Leaks Batman!

UPS dropped off the Copper Flare Washers from Grainger and I just got them installed. I barely snugged them down and it appears to be dry as a bone! I started her up and let the engine run for about 10 minutes or so, which the first few minutes was on choke. I am going to let the gas dry out around the engine compartment and when it's not raining do a quick around the block test. Silly I am thinking, this is working?? Ha!

Posting some photos of my line and washers. The 1st one is just the line and I am trying to show what I think is a hump/seam line. It was a lot worse before I wet sanded it with 500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. Before I sanded I could see a hump on the lip of the flare - perhaps this was some of my problem or perhaps that is normal, heck if I know.

The next two are just showing the washer next to the line and the washer setting on top of the line. I put the washer into the fuel pump and into the inlet of the Qjet Carburetor. When I put them on and wrenched it, I really assumed I'd have to give it a little more but no, there was no leak on my first try. Though I did give it a bit more, since I was sure I was too "lite" with tightening them down. But that is still light years away what I was doing yesterday.

Many thanks dmjlambert! Really, I cannot thank you enough - it's like I need to send you money or something LOL

[dmjlambert]

Give Me Money! That's What I Want

Money (That's What I Want) - YouTube

LOL. Your findings are same as mine. Just insert gasket, problem over.

[Rich72C10]

LOL love that song.... though why I cannot ever get YouTubes to embed like that!

"check is in the mail" ;-)

[Andy4639]

That's pretty cool. I've never herd of these. I will be checkin' on them though.

Rich72C10, did you order a assortment of them are just the size you needed?

[Rich72C10]

I just ordered the 3/8th size from Grainger... though if I ever work on my break lines I'll likely order some of those sizes to have on the self (just in case). But the lines/fittings are in real good shape on my truck and haven't been malformed by using the wrong type of wrench (like my fuel hard line was).

[Rich72C10]

Okay, one of the things I talked about in this thread was my short 3-line Fuel Pump. Back when I first tried to get my truck from my brother in Kilgore we ended up replacing the Fuel Pump (long story short, it was trash in the tank NOT the pump). Whilst every parts site says I need a "long" 3-line pump, mine has a shorter one (which comes up for a 73+ C10 350 or even a 72 350 Suburban). So I decided to get a new one today after getting fed up with the "new" one and it's super annoying ticking.

Got one from Lockhart NAPA, Delphi #DFP MF0002 (which I think is ACDelco / GM's part source). It more or less looks like the one I took off but rather than the lower can being brass-like colored, it is more stainless of a color. The one I took off, I think is a Carter or at least it has a Carter part number stamped on the side - #M6626. Then under that number it has 20048 listed.

1. The Delphi MF0002 has no clickety-clack. Man, I hated that sound on the "old" one!
2. I seem to have a better / stable idle.
3. When just putting along and hardly giving/touching the pedal it so much smoother as the RPMs reach shifting time. I have had a odd power like loss at low RPMs - unless I was giving a bit more pedal.

Number 2 and 3 above are total bonus changes in operation, I wasn't aware I needed a new fuel pump but I suppose at low RPM the M6626 pump wasn't giving steady fuel? Eh, I don't know but ~$25 bucks for this Delphi DFP MF0002 was well worth twice that cost to just getting rid of the gosh darn ticking!

[Steeveedee]

The ticking sound was possibly from a gap between the pushrod and lever arm. Or maybe just poppet noise.

[Rich72C10]

I don't know what its deal was, it was just annoying as hell. Though now I can clearly hear my water pump making a slight whining / squealing noise. So he'll be getting replaced next I think but it is less annoying.

[Steeveedee]

Could just be the belt. Didn't the engine get a new or rebuilt water pump when it got rebuilt?

[Rich72C10]

Getting a new water pump would have been a good idea, in hindsight. I am positive its the water pump giving a bit of a squeaky noise. It isn't all thought loud but I think she is giving me a hit ;-)

What sucks, is that I'm going to have to rattle paint the replacement... if I could only go back in time (hums, Cher – If I Could Turn Back Time).

[Happy_dan]

Wonder what it is after the water pump! LOL. It's always the next thing on these old trucks, isn't it? I have a list!

[Rich72C10]

You got that right - next up is more or less refreshing the frontend along with tired rubber brake lines - I have like $500 worth of parts in my RockAuto cart (includes water pump to have on hand)! But what I hate is re-replacing parts - hopefully the fuel pump is the last of that from last summer's repairs.

Though it is nice to be in preventive maintenance / peace of mind repairs. I already have a 12 bolt rear end Flo-Pro gasket as the cover is weeping around the bolts. That is when I also noticed the rear center brake line didn't look all that hot. None of these I am looking forward doing and I am serious thinking of having it done for me.