counterpart doors?

[karlbenz]

How are the new counter part door shells? They a bit pricey.

[jweb]

I bought new doors from Jegs when they had a sale, I don't remember the brand.
They fit good, I had to do a little cutting on the pass side door. first 2 pics are driver's door, no mods necessary. Last photo shows the cuts I made on pass door.

I'm not building a show truck so the gaps aren't perfect.

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by jweb

I bought new doors from Jegs when they had a sale, I don't remember the brand.
They fit good, I had to do a little cutting on the pass side door. first 2 pics are driver's door, no mods necessary. Last photo shows the cuts I made on pass door.

I'm not building a show truck so the gaps aren't perfect.

Thanks. them shells are kinda spendy. not sure what route I'm gonna go. both doors have the kinks where they hit the fenders. I have a set with no kink. I may end up cutting that section out and using that to repair

[jweb]

I did pay around $1000 for both doors, not cheap.

A kink in the door at the front may also mean damage to the hinge are of the door. Sometimes these were caused by the door getting pushed too far open.

The driver's door that came on my Suburban had exactly that type of damage. If the hinge area is good, you might just consider a new outer skin. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...yABEgIT4fD_BwE

Then all of the welds would be hidden on the inside door edge.

I wasn't happy with the doors I patched myself. I had replaced the inner door bottoms and it was obvious where they had been cut and welded across the factory stamped shape of the inner door. You wouldn't have that issue with a full outer skin.

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by jweb

I did pay around $1000 for both doors, not cheap.

A kink in the door at the front may also mean damage to the hinge are of the door. Sometimes these were caused by the door getting pushed too far open.

The driver's door that came on my Suburban had exactly that type of damage. If the hinge area is good, you might just consider a new outer skin. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...yABEgIT4fD_BwE

Then all of the welds would be hidden on the inside door edge.

I wasn't happy with the doors I patched myself. I had replaced the inner door bottoms and it was obvious where they had been cut and welded across the factory stamped shape of the inner door. You wouldn't have that issue with a full outer skin.

I think they are bout $800 per door now at car and truck shop.
yeah, when the door check fails is when they typically get that kink in them.
I did inner door bottoms on my 64 and had to do a lot of modifying to make them work

[twoskies]

Had a Buddy of Mine wanting a Challenge, was going to fix and repair mine on my 1966, Called one day, was going to take alot of work to make them look right, Asked if i could buy Skins, Had them ordered and on the way before i got off Phone , LOl, Couple Weeks later he dropped them off, Very Nice Work and the Skins went on very well,
only issue we had was on the inners, the lines didnt match up, we got close, but ill get a Plate to cover that

Good Luck on Your Build

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by twoskies

Had a Buddy of Mine wanting a Challenge, was going to fix and repair mine on my 1966, Called one day, was going to take alot of work to make them look right, Asked if i could buy Skins, Had them ordered and on the way before i got off Phone , LOl, Couple Weeks later he dropped them off, Very Nice Work and the Skins went on very well,
only issue we had was on the inners, the lines didnt match up, we got close, but ill get a Plate to cover that

Good Luck on Your Build

my inner was terrible too. had to narrow the bottoms and blend the lines in due to not matching

[twoskies]

agree with the inners not lining up very well, luckily ive got a fabricator friend that said he could make some plates with a pattern or something, maybe a Chevy Bowtie, lol