76 K10 hubs shaky top to bottom

[K10-Kansas]

Hi all! I need some advice on what needs to be replaced, ball joints, bearings, spindles, u-joints, more? Some parts are definitely bad and I imagine some parts I should just replace since I would have everything apart anyway. My chassis is a 1976 K10.

• My driver side, bottom ball joint moves a lot so I know that one is bad. It doesn’t look like the hub is moving much so maybe the bearings are ok.
  
  
• Driver's side top ball joint moves a little so I am unsure if that is okay.
  
  
• The passenger side lower ball joint moves a moderate amount so maybe it's bad?
  
  
• Passenger side upper ball joint moves a tiny bit. I feel like the hub is moving a lot on the passenger side so I imagine the bearings are bad.
  
  
• The knuckle / tie rod joint has play in it. I don't know if that is normal.
  

Here's a 1 minute video of me giving parts a good shake. The voiceover is quiet. Sorry about that. https://youtu.be/gCUtKGtKhg0?si=LIbp_yKkIdWnSx2y

[57taskforce]

Personally I would replace all of it. Brakes if need be, Bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints, probably even look at the axle shaft u joints too. That way going forward you know what you’ve got, especially if you are building something you plan to keep and use. If you’ve got a bunch of loose parts is likely safe to say it’s been a long time since much if any of it was fresh.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Personally I would replace all of it. Brakes if need be, Bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints, probably even look at the axle shaft u joints too. That way going forward you know what you’ve got, especially if you are building something you plan to keep and use. If you’ve got a bunch of loose parts is likely safe to say it’s been a long time since much if any of it was fresh.

Thanks. Are there 2 sets of bearings on each wheel? Do the spindles occasionally need to be replaced?

[Dead Parrot]

Fix all of it properly once and be done. Especially if you plan on keeping it.

Before you start, ask yourself if you have any plans to raise or lower anything. No point in replacing parts now just to replace them a few months from now as part of a modification project.

Had a shop do a major fix up on my 75 C10 front suspension in the early 00's. Cost around $700 then. But it drove like a new truck when they were done. Still drives good today and haven't needed any additional front end repairs since.

[MJN]

Sounds like all balljoints and tie rod ends are due to be replaced, the more play the more vibration and wear on bearings and other components. Bearings are easy to replace if needed. Spindles don't go bad unless you spin a bearing or there is some other damage to them. If the hub seal surface is rough you can get a repair sleeve/speedi sleeve and corresponding seal for it. The spindle bearing, small needle bearing inside the spindle, along with the lip seals should all be replaced at this time as well (SBK-1 kit)- they're cheap and you did all the work to tear it down this far anyway.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by MJN

Sounds like all balljoints and tie rod ends are due to be replaced, the more play the more vibration and wear on bearings and other components. Bearings are easy to replace if needed. Spindles don't go bad unless you spin a bearing or there is some other damage to them. If the hub seal surface is rough you can get a repair sleeve/speedi sleeve and corresponding seal for it. The spindle bearing, small needle bearing inside the spindle, along with the lip seals should all be replaced at this time as well (SBK-1 kit)- they're cheap and you did all the work to tear it down this far anyway.

Thanks. My goal is to have all the parts ready to go as I and disassembling everything. I'd hate to have it all apart and then realize I need a tiny piece and then have the truck sitting for a week waiting on the part.

[MJN]

Don't forget to check or replace the axle shaft u-joints too while you're that far in too. Get some Spicer 5-760x's

[K10-Kansas]

Definitely will. Thanks for that. My goal is to have more than what I need by my side, replacing everything that makes sense to replace, and then return anything that was not used. But I've never worked on these types of parts so I'm trying to figure out what is needed.

[K10-Kansas]

Is there a seal at the end of the axel? If so, mine must need to be replaced.

[kennyw]

That inner axle shaft seal is on the inside of the axle, behind the ring gear and carrier. You can remove the carrier to replace them and reinstall without setting gears as long as any shims that are present are put back in the same exact location they were removed from. May as well buy/make a tube scraper if you replace those seals to get all the grime out.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by kennyw

That inner axle shaft seal is on the inside of the axle, behind the ring gear and carrier. You can remove the carrier to replace them and reinstall without setting gears as long as any shims that are present are put back in the same exact location they were removed from. May as well buy/make a tube scraper if you replace those seals to get all the grime out.

Thanks for the info. To replace the seal that is likely causing this leak, would I have to pull the differential gear out? Is this the right part on LMC's website? In the other picture, is this where the seal is? Thanks for your help on this.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by MJN

Don't forget to check or replace the axle shaft u-joints too while you're that far in too. Get some Spicer 5-760x's

Good idea. Do you think this is the right u-joint? LMC shows the axle u-joint for 1973-87 4wd, 1/2 ton. Mine is a Dana 44 8F

[MJN]

Originally Posted by K10-Kansas

Good idea. Do you think this is the right u-joint? LMC shows the axle u-joint for 1973-87 4wd, 1/2 ton. Mine is a Dana 44 8F

I don't bother with LMC for these parts. RockAuto has them all, and cheaper for better parts;
Its the same ujoint used on both Dana 44's and 10 bolts, 73-87 1/2 ton and 3/4 tons.
Here is the axle shaft ujoint https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2392&jsn=614

Spindle bearing kit- https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1672&jsn=637

Axle shaft seals- that go in the housing; https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1852&jsn=624

Here is a pdf of the factory service manual if you don't have one, same info thats in the '76 supplement manual.
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...ice_Manual.pdf

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by MJN

I don't bother with LMC for these parts. RockAuto has them all, and cheaper for better parts;
Its the same ujoint used on both Dana 44's and 10 bolts, 73-87 1/2 ton and 3/4 tons.
Here is the axle shaft ujoint https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2392&jsn=614

Spindle bearing kit- https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1672&jsn=637

Axle shaft seals- that go in the housing; https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1852&jsn=624

Here is a pdf of the factory service manual if you don't have one, same info thats in the '76 supplement manual.
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...ice_Manual.pdf

Thanks a ton! I really appreciate it.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by K10-Kansas

Thanks for the info. To replace the seal that is likely causing this leak, would I have to pull the differential gear out? Is this the right part on LMC's website? In the other picture, is this where the seal is? Thanks for your help on this.

Yep unfortunately that’s the one. They can be a pain to get out and install. I have an install tool I made with 1/2” all thread and 1/2” fender washers that just barely fits in the ID of the seal land. As said above put the exact shims in the exact position they came from. You’ll have to pull the spindle to get the axle shafts out in order to replace the seals. And yes there is an inner bearing, inner race, and an outer bearing and outer race. Along with the inner spindle needle bearing that supports the axle shaft.