need front spring advice

[streetstar]

Originally Posted by EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

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When I did mine I cut two coils to get the drop I wanted. I got a computerized alignment, my alignment was perfect. The camber was 1 degree from a stock measurement and this does not hurt handling but actualy improves it. (So the alignment guy say's.) You can hardly notice this when looking at the truck. So considering all things it handles very good and looks great and will cost you zero!

esll.

How'd ya do the back? Because it is a GMC, i am just assuming its leaf spring -- did you do a axle flip, or use shackles and other devices?

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by streetstar

How'd ya do the back? Because it is a GMC, i am just assuming its leaf spring -- did you do a axle flip, or use shackles and other devices?

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I have coils out back .... 2' lowering blocks which you can make or purchase.

esll.

[corn]

Originally Posted by EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

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When I did mine I cut two coils to get the drop I wanted. I got a computerized alignment, my alignment was perfect. The camber was 1 degree from a stock measurement and this does not hurt handling but actualy improves it. (So the alignment guy say's.) You can hardly notice this when looking at the truck. So considering all things it handles very good and looks great and will cost you zero!

esll.

2 rings cut off & just reinstalled with no problems? Interesting. I know what my next mod will be...

[weav1]

Are You Guys Cutting Off The Bracket That The Bump Stop Is Mounted To I Bought Spindels And Springs From Ece But Cut Them Off For A Little More Clearance Its Not Together Yet Dont Know If It Was A Must To Do But It Looks Alot Better 2 Coils Cut It Got To Be Nearly Bottomed Out

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by weav1

Are You Guys Cutting Off The Bracket That The Bump Stop Is Mounted To I Bought Spindels And Springs From Ece But Cut Them Off For A Little More Clearance Its Not Together Yet Dont Know If It Was A Must To Do But It Looks Alot Better 2 Coils Cut It Got To Be Nearly Bottomed Out

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Ok word to the wise, your in a lowered truck you cannot just ignore speed bumps, pot holes and the like. SLOW DOWN WHEN YOU SEE THESE! I have no problem with mine but I watch for these, cool comes with a price but you need not be bottoming out. If you are bottoming out your going too fast. Go around pot holes and slow down for speed bumps after all that's why there there. Never cut off the bracket for the bump stops. Have a good time with the new truck (look.)

esll.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by corn

2 rings cut off & just reinstalled with no problems? Interesting. I know what my next mod will be...

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Can't wait to see the new stance .....

Have a good New Years (play safe) and an even better 2008.

esll.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by weav1

Are You Guys Cutting Off The Bracket That The Bump Stop Is Mounted To I Bought Spindels And Springs From Ece But Cut Them Off For A Little More Clearance Its Not Together Yet Dont Know If It Was A Must To Do But It Looks Alot Better 2 Coils Cut It Got To Be Nearly Bottomed Out

I cut 1 full ring off my front coils, removed the bumpstop brackets, & use traction bar snubbers for the new bumpstops. I did leave a portion of the steer stop inplace, & will tell you that the steer stop does bottom on the crossmember from time to time. All in all , the ride is good & the springs stay where they belong......I cant imagine that the ride would be very good with 2 full rounds cut tho. Also, if you cut 2 rounds, you had better have a limiting strap from the lower a arm to the crossmember, so the spring dont try to bounce out of place on the rebound(yikes!) I guess a lot depends on what you are willing to live with, as far as ride quality. I like a decent ride/handle, so peronally I would not go more than 1 round on the coils. It was a bunch more work, but I got that extra 1 1/2" on a body drop crazyL

[Cannon007]

just buy some lowering springs and shocks or lowering spindles and do it right, the ride quality will be worth it, and if you dont have the $150 to spend on it, you should rather be going to school geting a better job than worrying about lowering your truck now.

[corn]

Originally Posted by Cannon007

just buy some lowering springs and shocks or lowering spindles and do it right, the ride quality will be worth it, and if you dont have the $150 to spend on it, you should rather be going to school geting a better job than worrying about lowering your truck now.

$150? Wow, you havent purchaced any drop parts for a long time have you? Didnt I see in a few of your posts that you wont leave town with your truck & you are having trouble fixing a vacuum leak? I think you should go back to school & get a better job so you can leave town once in a while. These trucks are a blast out on the road...

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by corn

$150? Wow, you havent purchaced any drop parts for a long time have you? Didnt I see in a few of your posts that you wont leave town with your truck & you are having trouble fixing a vacuum leak? I think you should go back to school & get a better job so you can leave town once in a while. These trucks are a blast out on the road...

Out on the open road at a buck 40.....HE11 yes! (on cut coils). I did mine right.....thought the ride was a little soft on the nose, so I talked with Charlie @ Charlies drop shop. I thought I needed a drop spring, but his 1st ? was are you running a sway bar? The answer was nope, & the reply went....If you add the bar, the a arms arent working so much independent from ea other. Now this guy could have sold a set of drop springs, but bottom line, he told me that they would not work any better than the cut coils I was running after the addition of the 1 ton swaybar, she was a different truck to play with.....a little firmer ride(as needed), & a truck that sits damn flat in a 65 mph cloverleaf .....even tho the azz end is still driftin HARD! some of us have kids in college, , & are doing big remodles on our homes.....& the "do it right" phrase, just isnt about "go back to school & get a better job" ......its about what we can afford (safely), & have fun crazyL

[LONGHAIR]

the addition of the 1 ton swaybar, she was a different truck to play with.....a little firmer ride(as needed), & a truck that sits damn flat in a 65 mph cloverleaf .....even tho the azz end is still driftin HARD!

A swaybar in the rear should cut some of that oversteer

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

A swaybar in the rear should cut some of that oversteer

Ill take that under good advizment old man

[LONGHAIR]

..........Now I gotta be "old", I thought that was Andy

[crazy longhorn]

Thats just "terms of indearment".....yea, maybe Andy is old, but not that old....I turned a 1/2 century last august.....crazyL

[Cannon007]

Originally Posted by corn

$150? Wow, you havent purchaced any drop parts for a long time have you? Didnt I see in a few of your posts that you wont leave town with your truck & you are having trouble fixing a vacuum leak? I think you should go back to school & get a better job so you can leave town once in a while. These trucks are a blast out on the road...

I just got done puting in both front and rear 2/3" lowering springs and shocks and I know i didnt spend more than $200 on just the front, front springs from brothers only costs $108 and shocks are $41 each, but you can find them cheaper else where which is what I did, but I don't remember what places I got them at, but I know I didnt spend more than $175 on the front. I've got a camaro that I daily, this is a project I bought for fun to work on and they ****ed up the original springs, I believe they heated them cause it was bottomed out and had no travel in it, which is why I wouldnt drive it and the exhaust was really bad which Ive got a nice magnaflow setup now and it sounds great. When I get some time I will fix the vacuum problem, its just a matter of the valve covers that are on it were not made for a TPI topend.

[Cannon007]

besides that he is 17yrs old, just giving him advice, since he is hopefully still in high school dont have to jump all over me

[slammed1]

Generally speaking removing one full round off the bottom of a coil (most coils) will net around a 2" drop roughly,and keep your alignment still obtainable. When you start removing more than one full coil you start maxing out the alignment being able to be placed in specs without using longer bolts for the upper a frames to accept thicker shim packs. Drop coils arent that expensive though and even spindles are getting fairly economical by some places.Rear coils on 67-72 trucks cant be trimmed really correctly since they are pig tailed on each end so back there blocks or shorter custom springs are an option.

Trimming coils for the desired ride height isnt a taboo thing,and like was said earlier even Foose or Boyd has trimmed a few coils in their life times. The key to a great ride is to pay close attention to bumpstop clearance and shock lengths. There is more to lowering that just wacking or heating springs otherwise your going to be like those local ricers you see who hit a bump and their heads go through the roof,and are very bouncy. If you pay attention tot he details like shocks and bumpstops along with your coils or leafs the ride can be just as nice as the stock truck was or even better.

Here is my 5-8 slammed Dodge Ram on 305/40/22 tires which I was told could never be done.

[corn]

Originally Posted by Cannon007

besides that he is 17yrs old, just giving him advice, since he is hopefully still in high school dont have to jump all over me

Wasnt really trying to "jump all over you", all Im saying is that cut coils arent as dangerous as some think & when you are broke & in school its the perfect time to run free parts. Also, when you are broke & in school, the last thing you want someone to tell you is to go back to school.

[road_rebel]

I have worked as a front-end and suspension mechanic for two different major tire companies (Goodyear and Big O), and I have seen many different variations. The ONLY vehicles that I have come across that I could not align (due to modifications not a wreck/damage) are ones with hydraulics. They throw the specs way out and change the camber (the tilt of the top of the tire either inboard or outboard from the vehicle) totally depending on where they have the switches. I agree with the replies above, first and foremost BE CAREFUL. You can easily remove the front springs, just lift the vehicle and support it by the frame and then put a jack under the lower control arm and relieve the spring pressure slowly after you have popped the ball joint. Take any extra precautions you feel you need (like chaining the coil to the frame or control arm). Whatever makes you comfortable. If your springs are already sagging, that means they no longer are doing what they should, they are worn out. Try the Chilton repair manual for your truck, it will give you the ride-height specs and how to check them. If your ride height is off then it will give you a lot of insight. I agree that drop spindles would be the best way to go as they will not affect your alignment specs, but once again if the ride-height is off then you might want to replace the springs anyway. Some brand new lowering coils might be worth it just for the ride factor. Also don't forget to check your ball joints while you have the weight off of the lower control arms! I would check all of my steering parts (upper and lower ball joints, tie-rods (inner and outer), Idler, pitman and BUSHINGS! Don't forget the bushings. Checking these parts will save you a lot of hassle later on. Sorry for the length on this but I hope it helps.

Be safe.

[road_rebel]

One more note, if you cut TOO much off of the springs you will also not be able to get the alignment right and could very well run the risk of bottom out. Have a good new year

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Cut do not heat a coil. Cut the coil from the top (pig tail end) so it will sit right leave the bottom alone.

It's interesting that a whole industry has growen from guys that like this look.

I've never heard of any one dying or killing someone in their lowered death trap (just joking about "death trap") but thats how it's made to look. Now it's gone high tech and there is no room for the old school way which is still as good a way to lower ones ride as it was in the day.

I wished I lived closer so you could go for a ride in my truck which cost me zero buck's to give it the stance that you all have seen in the pictures that I've posted. Wheel alignment no problem, computerized print out say's everything is great.

esll.

[crazy longhorn]

Its my understanding, that you cut the BOTTOM of the coil & leave the pigtail alone at the top.....that way the spring stays where it belongs. crazyL

[slammed1]

It really all depends on how the upper part of the coil and mount is designed compared to the lower part of the coil and mount..........it is on some vehicles better to cut the top and leave the bottom alone but on others cutting the bottom is better..........so its best to take each one individually and see what works best before cutting. I still myself never cut more than one full round unless I need a little extra.

[Boog]

I believe several have said cutting 1 full coil off the front coils will normally net you about a 2" drop. Is that about right? So what is the most preferred method of cutting the coil? Torch or cutoff wheel maybe?

[huero]

Originally Posted by Boog

I believe several have said cutting 1 full coil off the front coils will normally net you about a 2" drop. Is that about right? So what is the most preferred method of cutting the coil? Torch or cutoff wheel maybe?

Cut off wheel due to less heat it will create. Heating coils is a no-no.
I am having difficulty picturing how you can cut the rear coils as they are tapered. I would like to see pictures of them installed. I think it is impossible.