1971 c-10 teardown & frame up resto

[Hottrucks]

I would get the ugly off with the oven cleaner and maybe lightly sand them to blend them a bit ( not to much or you loose the look)

I painted my frame when my bed was off thats easy..I also had to remove my inner fenders for wheel clearnce so painting that was easy too...thats why I suggested pulling the front clip off....you can take it off in about an hour...then you have easy access to the engine firewall and frame rails to clean and paint ..the fire wall will proably clean up pretty well since they don't get much abuse... yea your going to have to flop around a bit while the clip is off the get the frame under the cab but it will be fine..

there is a how too in the FAQ section to remove the clip the short version would be

remove radiatior, unplug wires, remove pan under windshield, remove 2 bottom fender bolts and 1 on top...remove the front rad support bolts (good time to change the rubber mounts) that go into the frame..) get a couple buds to hold the fenders up and remove the last 2 top fender bolts pick it up and set it some where that you can wash and paint the inner fenders... I would remove the hood first to make it easier to handle and clean/paint

you could pull the clip friday night paint things saturady and put the clip back on sunday...drive it to school monday...

[Hottrucks]

one oter thing as I ws looking at your pic...don't e lazy pull the seat out when you do the inside and paint the floor..then you won't have to go back..do things once....like painting the back pf the bumper...I would leave it off till I pulled the clip..or not if I was going to drive it I mean it's 6 bolts and since htey are fresh they will come right off...

first thing I would do is go to the parts store and pick up a can or 2 of PB blaster and start spraying bed and body bolts so it has time to work then things will came apart easier.....I mean LIKE GET OFF THE PUTER AND DO IT NOW!!!!! when you get back pull the seat and get to work on the inside!!!! it's saturday and you could have it back together tomorrow!!!..you would be suprised how quickly you will want to work on it when the inside screams DRIVE ME!!!!!

now I have to get back to work....I have 5 cords of fire wood that my truck is screaming HELL YEA THATS WHAT I WAS BUILT FOR!!!to get back to the house!! and yes I'm hoping to stop long enough to get a pic of it freighted with wood!!

[skyreep1]

No tags or insurance right now. So can I get to every part of the frame with the cab still on? If you had seen last sunday the only thing that was on it was the cab, not even doors. Whats on it now is what me and a buddy did in about 6 hours.

[skyreep1]

QUESTION!!! If I painted my truck with black primer could I eventually paint over that with a basecoat and topcoat ? or would I have to go back down to bare metal>>>?

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

QUESTION!!! If I painted my truck with black primer could I eventually paint over that with a basecoat and topcoat ? or would I have to go back down to bare metal>>>?

yes you could paint it with a primer but that will involve time $ and I would be spending it in INS and Tags....RUN THAT *****!! pantina is IN by the time it's out you'll be putting the paint on it....

yes you can get to MOST of it pretty well..why pull the cab if there is no need to...worst case is to replace cab mounts then I would jack oneside at a time and do front and rear then move to the other side...if you can't see the spot you missed no one else will..like you said your just building a DD and trying to clean it up....

I can't force to to do anything you asked what we thought and I gave you my $.02 inside the cab..pull the clip do the underhood stuff ..pull the bed...do what you need to back there and....RUN THAT *****...wait didn't I say that like 3 times....with the amount of $$$ you save you could be putting a nice drop on it AND STILL BE DRIVING IT......Theres a nice set of drop springs for sale by a memeber for $125.....the way I figure it you still have $$ in your pocket too!!

[skyreep1]

Okay imma run that biatch. I not so worried about the frame being seen.. I'm more trying to prevent it being rusted through. did ya get that picture of that wood? a

[Hottrucks]

I guess what this all boils down to is what you want this truck to do.....and what you want to do with it....someone has told you already that if you don't start driving it then YOU WILL LOOSE INTREST..we have all been there... and after a year of it sitting there it will be worthless and you have to listen to the BS about your junk in the yard....

my truck was pulled literaly out of the woods 3 days later it was on trash can duty while I drove it around sitting on a milk crate....it was tagged and I drove it for a week with that milkcrate..parts store gas staion where ever it had to go.....it has been about 5 months now and with the exception of a few days I have been running it..last weekend was a 200 mile joy ride...

can't post pic but DRIVE IT!!!!

heres a ink to the pics I took last weekend
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&goto=newpost

[skyreep1]

Question... BTW I sided with SPI's black epoxy, after I get the money I'lll reshoot with white and then hit my truck with the orange. Good idea?

More importantly is there one or two rear brake hoses?

And can someone post the link for the walkthrough on front clip removal?

[skyreep1]

I searched for it but I don tthink I found what you were talking about. She got her insurance today, registration and tags tommorow

[msgross]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

Uea I've though about the HEI kit but I wanna keep her stock.

so you prefer stock over better performance? not many people runs points anymore, another option is an electronic upgrade to you current setup...

Originally Posted by skyreep1

Question... BTW I sided with SPI's black epoxy, after I get the money I'lll reshoot with white and then hit my truck with the orange. Good idea?

I used SPI epoxy, $150 for two sprayable gallons, you can come back later but why not leave it "as is", no offense but original hugger orange is better than a black primer job that will look like crap soon. Use John Deere Blitz Black paint if you want the hot rod look.

Originally Posted by skyreep1

More importantly is there one or two rear brake hoses?

And can someone post the link for the walkthrough on front clip removal?

brake lines: you're kidding right? climb under your truck and look at the brake lines... some things you just need to investigate yourself.

clip removal, remove the wiring harness from the bulkhead, radiator support bolts, fender bolts and inner fender cab bolts.

Listen to the advice that guys are giving you though, don't take to much apart, this truck has lived for 40 years so leaving the frame as-is for another 5 years won't hurt anything..

[Hottrucks]

well said!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Hooligan71]

Great advice guys. I rattle canned my interior and it looks great. Makes me want to get in it and drive it everyday. Can't wait for the new carpet kit! So, clean up the interior, I repainted everything inside right where it was. removed ashtray, glove box door. masked door panels and dash. painted it flat black with Gloss Red accents. Looks brand new. putting seat cover and new carpet. I alreaady put HEI and new brake pads, hoses etc. on her. Clean it up and like everyone said Drive The *****!!

[skyreep1]

Yeah I would've climbed under to check but it's parked over at a friends house for a day or two, until I can get tags.

I had my reasons for asking =P

One last question, would you reccomend chilton, or haynes for a rebuild manual

Oh and also, what kind of paint can I use on the door panel and armrests? Also should I repaint the rubber floor mats? or just put tire shine on em?

And P.S. yes, I do prefer stock over performance

EDIT: whats the rusted part called thats inside of the cab corner? inner rocker?

[msgross]

HEI is not just about performance, it's maintenance free and more reliable.. that's up to you, I don't want to adjust dwell and points though..

one rear rubber brake line, autozone or NAPA has them, two on the front.

inside the cab corner? there is the B pillar, outer floor and inner rocker and rear cab support. depends on how much of yours is rotted, you might want to replace the entire outer floor piece, that's the only way to find the piece just inside the cab corner without making it yourself. we would need pics for more detail though.

armrests are $15 each, metal door panels can be done with spraypaint.

rubber mats are $80, i'd pull yours out, powerwash it and coat it with armor-all if if it's not rotted...

the repair manuals are done on a slightly newer 80's truck so everything is generic anyway... I think either will work for you...

[skyreep1]

any specific type of spraypaint to keep the gloss though?

And perhaps I will look into an HEI kit... idk yet

[msgross]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

any specific type of spraypaint to keep the gloss though?

And perhaps I will look into an HEI kit... idk yet

I am doing a semi-gloss or satin on mine... you could just get gloss rustoleum or car paint

[Hottrucks]

heres something that is easy cheap and will help with rattles and road noise

Remove your door panel polish the paint on the door then wash the arm rest they look pretty good...then run to your local JoAnnes fabris store or what ever you have close by and get some black vinal and a can of 3M super trim ahesive......clean the door panel down spray the panel with the 3M and vinal set the door panel on it and fold it around the edges us a razor the cut the holes for the screws that hold the panel arme rest and make a small X for the door/window cranks ....now you have a cool door panel tha is easy to clean is warm and helps keep out the road noise...makes the door sound more solid

oh by the way that was alot more than 1 question...lol

[skyreep1]

LOL i just looked back at it... "One question... another thing... edit: how do I...


Lolz... Okay I know I may get chastised for this by the pros on here but I've gone against the patina finish. Instead I'm siding with a cheap roll on rustoleum job... I'll probably just do it panel by panel so I can keep driving it. I agree that I want something to drive, but I do still want it to look presentable. Note, its not gonna win any shows, but who really cares when your saving a sh$% ton and you just want a weekend driver? Am I right? I would've went with summit's line but I dont have access to a garage or an HVLP paint gun.

Rickwrenches corvair paint job sold me on it since it showed it over time up to 3 years and it still looked sexy.

Im kinda thinkin about white scallops on the body and hood too. Better ideas? flames? yenko? racing stripes? throw some suggestions out.

Opinions and constructive critisism are appreciated.

BTW love the idea on the covered door panel. Do you have any links with a step by step and pix? I started doing the fiberglass kick panel/speaker deal today. I think it oughta look awesome. I would like to do the door like that. With a soft filler. And the same guy who posted the kick panels on here did his doors the same way but used foam to put flames underneath. I think I could make a mean headliner like this too. With flames of course.

I'm thinkin "safety orange" hood, fenders, bed, etc. then "gloss white" for the cab, and then "gloss black" on the engine compartment. Sound good?

[msgross]

I like the original orange still

[skyreep1]

Maybe I'll match it via mixing then

[msgross]

it's your truck... follow your vision bud...

[skyreep1]

Can lowes, or home depot, mix rustoleum according to a paint chip?

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

Im kinda thinkin about white scallops on the body and hood too. Better ideas? flames? yenko? racing stripes? throw some suggestions out.

Opinions and constructive critisism are appreciated.

?

cover the whole truck with purple fuzz and get a suit like this

who cares what we think about colors!!!!

[msgross]

buy the duplicolor car paint from autoone... cheap and single stage like rustoleum... but better...

They have a few colors.. even hugger orange

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html

[skyreep1]

hell no on the duplicolor. #1 reason is that it's lacquer. UGH!. Rustoleum is like a single stage acrylic enamel that you can roll on since it flows out. That's my #2 reason, I dont feel like shellin out buxx for an HVLP.

Everything I've heard about duplicolor paint shop, interior spray, and even bed liner is thatthey all suck. The only thing I would trust duplicolor with is VHT high heat ceramic for engines. Thanks but no thanks on that one. Plus you have to buy the primer, color, and clear coat, even if there is no hardener or reducer. Rustoleum goes on bare metal, no primer, no readucer, no hardener, and no clear.

Duplicolor=$75 in paint.
Rustoleum=$25 in paint
Duplicolor=$50 for cheap HVLP
Rustoleum=$0 (no HVLP required, already have sandpaper, rollers etc.)

Does lowes hardware, walmart, etc mix rustoleum?

No rascism intended but that is truly the blackest man I've seen in my entire life^^^^^^^^^^

Maybe After I do the fuzz ill paint "the love machine" across all the windows, lolz

Even if it is a crap paint job, I want to at least TRY to get it somewhat close to factory. When places match paint they scan a paint chip correct? They mean the ones on paper, but what if I brouugh in an actual chip of paint? would it work?



Oh and most importantly, I would still like a pic by pic walkthrough on uphostlery(headliner, door panel)


THX GUYS!!!