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01-11-2010, 11:11 PM | #26 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Thank you guys. I pulled my head out of my rear and realized that diesel is the way to go. Unfortunately my bad knee prevents me from driving stick so I am going to do some research on dodge automatics and also look for some adapter to gm tranny's. I might be better off going with a dodge tranny and transfer case. I have heard on other forums that Painless Wiring makes a custom harness for this swap.
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01-11-2010, 11:22 PM | #27 | |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Quote:
ramjet 502's have been used on this board in 4x4's, can't remember who though...
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01-12-2010, 12:58 PM | #28 | |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Quote:
There is an automatic that came with the dodge diesel. My grandpa had one. Don't know how common it is though.
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01-12-2010, 01:29 PM | #29 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Not sure why what I said was rude. Regardless of budget, sometimes it makes sense to take a step back and look at the whole picture in order to decide what will really work best for a particular application. When a person starts talking about a $30k engine budget in a plow truck, you can't help but wonder if there isn't a better over-all solution. At the very least, simply making sure that the person has considered some of these options can help the rest of us offer better suggesions. I'm not sure why you're so bothered by my concern?
Last edited by Jim85IROC; 01-12-2010 at 01:33 PM. |
01-12-2010, 02:11 PM | #30 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
I think the dodge trans can be built to be pretty stout. I know one gut that put a $7000 trans into a $3500 truck that didn't need it. (Dad pays the CC bill). I know another gut that is planning to rebuild his for about $3000, including the $1200 converter. I don't know if you have driven a newer truck with a hydraulic clutch, but they can be pretty soft. It might not hurt (sorry, no pun intended) to test drive a newer truck to see if your knee can take it.
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01-12-2010, 03:56 PM | #31 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
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01-12-2010, 06:10 PM | #32 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Let me clarify 30,000 dollar budget for the whole project which includes boxing the frame, rear steering, dana 60's, tons of body work, and other little things. That is why I am considering the cummins motor. I figured why blow the budget on just the crate motor. This why I will be able to complete more of the projct maybe even complete it with some more over time, side work, and hopefully some snow storms that require mad plowing. If I don't finish no biggy I have the rest of my life to get it done.
As for the knee/clutch problem. I have 2 ideas in my head for a hand clutch but I don't know if either of them will work. The first one is a clutch lever from a motor cycle mounted on the shift lever I could squeeze while shifting. The second a throttle assembly from a motorcycle mounted horizontally on the shift lever I could twist while shifting. Some of you fabricators and engineers out there tell me what you think or should I just find an automatic. |
01-12-2010, 06:35 PM | #33 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
While I'm one of the biggest "3-pedals or walk" advocates out there, you're better off with an automatic with this one.
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01-12-2010, 06:52 PM | #34 | |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Quote:
back to the subject though: Have you thought about a hydraulic clutch for the knee problem, would that still be to stiff? Or you could move the accelerator to the left side (if your state allows)
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01-12-2010, 06:54 PM | #35 | ||
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Quote:
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 01-12-2010 at 06:56 PM. |
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01-12-2010, 10:39 PM | #36 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
My vote for best crate motor: 350 Ram Jet!!
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01-13-2010, 06:07 AM | #37 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
It is not so much of the difficulty of pushing the pedal. It is the repeated motion of doing it that causes the problem. I can go up a ladder with nothing on my shoulder or 8 2X6X8's the knee hurts the same.
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01-17-2010, 06:32 PM | #38 | |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Quote:
You need to figure out wich year dodge your going too use because they've been using cummins engines engine for 21years. several changes along the way. Painless makes a engine harness for common rail engines (HPCR) 03-06. that are electronically controlled. Have a history of injector failures, & dropping valve seats. I recommend staying with a mechanical engine from a 89-93 with a VE injection pump or 94-98 with a P-7100 injection pump. Last edited by clinebarger; 01-17-2010 at 06:33 PM. |
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01-17-2010, 08:47 PM | #39 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
you said biggest alternator you can find. check out DC Power
http://www.dcpowerinc.com/ the 270XP is a beast, pumps out 200 amps at idle. and they can set you up with multiple alternator setups, just call and talk to Rob and he'll set you up right. and tell him qu1cks1lver56 from the SMD forums sent you. Last edited by qu1cks1lver56; 01-17-2010 at 09:04 PM. |
01-17-2010, 09:01 PM | #40 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
All you need is Chevy's 4.1L 250 Gas Inline Six.
See... You can't be towing more than that around... Last edited by 78 Chevyrado; 01-17-2010 at 09:02 PM. |
01-17-2010, 09:12 PM | #41 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
if ur lookin for 450 500 horse just go to the machine shop near your house and take a chevy 350 and just tell them you want 500 horse out of it done deal with out all the weight of them big blocks
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01-17-2010, 09:21 PM | #42 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
drive it like a truck only use the clutch to stop and start nothing else
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01-18-2010, 10:03 PM | #43 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Clinebarger: What do you think of the 94-98? I could go with a banks power pack, and run some propane.
Munger: That technique is a little hard to do while plowing. A lot of forward and reverse action. |
01-18-2010, 11:59 PM | #44 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Oh I didn't see that
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01-19-2010, 07:49 PM | #45 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
If you are using a hand cluch your hand will hurt more then your knee after about ten minutes plowing. You could make a shift lever type clutch with a hold position so you could push in the clutch with your right hand, shift, then go back to the shifter. Or a trist grip clutch as a shifter knob.
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01-19-2010, 09:42 PM | #46 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
The Cummins and auto tranny sounds like the ticket, but they had some automatics in the past that didn't hold up. I don't know what version or what years, it's just a 'heads up' to you. Find a Dodge diesel forum and you'll find out quick.
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01-19-2010, 09:46 PM | #47 | |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Quote:
Do a search on the "KDP" killer dowel pin. Its a dowel pin that locates the timing case and can become loose and fall into the timing gears & cause severe damage, kits are out there to correct this they run about 60 bucks. Banks stuff is nice but not needed. I use TST diesel power kits. heres some Links http://www.tstproducts.com/dowelpinr...tfor94-98.aspx http://www.tstproducts.com/94-98dodg...thvideo-1.aspx You will need EGT & boost gauges. The quickest way to kill a diesel is to run too high of EGTs 1250 degrees at the manifold is max in my opinion. Stock turbos will support 35-40 PSI anything more will overspeed the turbo & cause the turbo to come apart. Last edited by clinebarger; 01-21-2010 at 08:08 PM. |
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01-21-2010, 04:07 PM | #48 | |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
Quote:
find a 94-98.5 dodge fix killer dowel pin boost and pyro guages are mandatory anything over stock 4-5 inch exhaust intake intercooler (optional) injectors (up to you) helix 2 cam 60lb exhaust valve springs and keepers (needed at this power) snow performance water/meth injection kit (optional but good for temps) larger turbo, or good set of twins (preference really) a good lift pump (fass or airdog) good torque convertor or complete auto tranny (suncoast or whoever) may want to upgrade fuel lines from pump to injectors ARP 14mm head studs either o-ring kit or fire rings (needed above 500hp) that should be around 700hp, and still reliable for what you need. i probably forgot some other small stuff but this is it, probably 15g for everything including truck depending on condition of truck! GOOD LUCK |
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01-21-2010, 09:48 PM | #49 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
I have been doing some looking around online and been making a few calls. What do you think a rebuilt motor should go for? So far I have been finding them in the $5,000 range. I have a diesel mechanic trying to cut me a deal that if I will have to put his business name on the truck when I pull at truck pulls, he will build me a motor, with parts at cost and %20 off the labor rate. I don't like the idea. I know that the pullers around here kinda frown on that type of operation. I am going to keep poking around to find the best deal. Thanks for all the great input guys I am glad you guys made me see the light as far as going diesel. I scored another axle for dirt cheap. My girlfriends father is already drawing out the rear steering. He is one of those guys that will wake up in the middle of the night with a good idea and go draw it out. I will keep you posted on the build. It will start promptly after the last snow fall.
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01-21-2010, 10:35 PM | #50 |
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Re: The best crate motor for the job
if the rebuilt motor has a cam and exh springs thats not a bad deal, but is it a 89-93 ve? or 94-98.5 p-pump? or vp44 or common rail motor? if its a p-pump (bosch p7100) thats not a bad deal as long as you get motor, pump, turbo and everything else ya need. what truck you putting it in? and what you thinkin for a tranny?
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