Really Annoyed

[70STOVEBOLT]

If it's not even clicking, but the brake light is coming on, then you are not getting enough voltage to the solenoid. I would clean the battery terminals, check the battery ground cable, make sure it is grounded to the block and not anywhere else. If that does not do it, replace the battery ground cable. When I got my truck, the po had the ground on the core support. It eventually got to where I would turn the key and it would just "bump" the engine, and if I kept turning the key a couple times, it would turn over and start up. I moved the ground to the engine and have not had trouble since.

[67chevy1series]

that same thing happened to my dads 70 and it was the starter ubendix the wire wasnt hooked up so check that and the ubendix

[FriscoDave]

I had the same problem. Changed the battery, cables, and starter/solenoid. Had full length headers. Used this relay and haven't had a problem.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30202/

[67ChevyRedneck]

I bought a solenoid heat shield and a remote solenoid kit. The heat shield has worked so well that I never installed the solenoid kit. My damn truck would not restart after a 15-20+ minute drive until it cooled. I've since driven it on several 2-3+ HOUR trips and it will fire right back up after it's shut off.

[68shortstep]

Originally Posted by Shyguy

You probably need to replace both battery cables and clean up the connections. That is what I had to do to my 4-Runner with the same symptoms.

Just did the same to my GrandCherokee with 74,000 miles on it. Failure to start (or even click) stranded me twice in the 100+ heat & one time after that in the down-pouring rain following the hot spell.

New cable ends (at the battery only) got me starting reliably again. The old ones were corroded even down inside the wire insulation about an inch back from the terminal ends. Never seen that before. Cheap-cr*p foreign wiring battery cables, no doubt.

What-uh-yuh expect on a $ 30 K plus car---- that they'd use the good stuff ?????????