Edelbrock Carb

[engineer_gregh]

I got tired of adjusting and chasing the idle problem on the BB and broke down and decided to go all Edelbrock from the fuel pump up. I read a couple of threads on the board of pressure regulators leaking so I also decided not to take the chance. Here is the parts list and prices of what I bought and installed. I realize its pricey but it fixed my problem.

350-8124 FUEL LINE BRAID SS BBC $47.95
350-8131 FUEL LINE W/FILT TS/PS P $39.97
350-1722 FUEL PUMP STREET BB-CHEVY $117.57
350-9265 HEAT INSULATOR GASKT OPEN $15.97

[richards72chevy]

My 69 impala never had a problem of running rich or the other problems with not running their fuel pump or regulator.But my truck was a different story.Installed their fuel pump and all the problems I had went away except for the black smoke coming from the exhaust never went away.But that may be another problem.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That's not a fuel pressure issue. That's a percolation issue. The float bowl of the Edlebrock carb is located right in the middle of the main carb body. .

Not on any Eddy carb i've seen Tx. Floats (2 of them) in bowls(2 of them) on the sides of the carb. Not in the middle like a quadrajet.

[Tx Firefighter]

The floats are in the center (I meant relatively) where they're subject to engine heat, compared to a Holley where they are suspended off of the body front and rear and insulated by being surrounded by air.

[NoNeck]

Q: I see fuel dripping from the carburetor boosters at idle, what causes this?

A: Too much fuel pressure usually causes this and often times dirt in the float bowls can do the same. Make sure your fuel pressure does not exceed 6.0 psi, optimum pressure is 5.5 psi.

Pulled directly from the Edelbrock website under troubleshooting.

POP

[MidLifer]

Thanks for all the info guys. FWIW there are multiple reviews online and YouTube videos about the Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Regulators leaking. Also with one of those you have to plumb a return line to the fuel tank. I'll start by trying the spacer, and go from there.

I'm getting closer every day to swapping in a LS....

[jrigheimer]

I know i will need and adapter plate, but will i also need a throttle bracket of some kind? What the psi of the mechanical fuel pump

[Hugh Mongus]

My last truck ('69 swb) came with a holley 750 double pumper. The engine had a mild build and it ran really good. When that carb started giving me problems, I swapped it out with an Edelbrock. While it ran good until I sold it, it didn't have the performance the Holley did. But...when I installed the new engine in my current truck ('71 swb), I installed another Edelbrock. Edelbrocks, for me, are much easier to work on than Holleys.

So in my opinion, Holleys are better for performance and Edelbrocks are good for ease of use.

If use choose an Edelbrock be sure to talk to the tech guys before you mate it with an intake. I just recently found out that that the 1406 and the Performer RPM intake do not work together. I would also buy the rod/spring kit for the carb you decide to buy so you can tune it easily. Although, keep in mind there are numerous combinations of springs, jets, and rods and you may not get everything you need in the prepackaged kit. You can buy everything separately though if the need arises.

Good luck to you!

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That's not a fuel pressure issue. That's a percolation issue. The float bowl of the Edlebrock carb is located right in the middle of the main carb body. It's right over the hot engine. When you shut the truck off, the heat rises from the engine and percolates the fuel in the bowl. A thin phenolic spacer will cure it guaranteed. It will also cure the obligatory hot start issue that dry fuel bowls cause. Been there and done that several times. Now I just automatically install the little insulator spacer when I install the carb the first time.

Note a Holley type of carb don't have this issue since their bowls are hanging off of the center carb body and surrounded by ambient air.

I'm with ledzepp on this one. My history of Edelbrock carburetors includes new and used, everything from out of the box to the bottom of some swap meet junk pile. They've all operated nicely and made me real happy with generic parts store fuel pumps and no regulator.

Seconded on the phenolic spacer. I had the same issue with a 1406 on a mild SBC. Generic part store mech. fuel pump as well with no issues.

I used the cheap "Spectre" linkage/kickdown bracket that they sell at most autoparts stores. Worked well for years.

edit: I went to a summit brand electric pump when I swapped a BBC due to vapor lock issues in the SW heat. I used a cheap Holley regulator (may have been summit brand, but it was stamped holley on the part) with the gauge. That also worked well. If memory serves it was around $20 several years ago.

[dirtyjim]

I had to run a regulator on mine after I replaced my fuel pump.
the edelbrock carb was on the truck when I bought it but i'll end up replacing it with a holley or efi in the future.

[MidLifer]

Never mind...I asked a dumb question then found the answer...

BTW I called Edelbrock and they were extremely helpful with my situation. Told me which metering rods and which springs to install, based on my cam spec. Also timing recommendation.

Lastly, they confirmed the fuel pressure issue, so I'll be adding a regulator. You should not put more than 6 lb into an Eddy. My pump puts out 8.5.

[18Z]

I know this is an old thread but I do have a question for Tx firefighter and jmking9. Which phenolic spacer do you recommend for a edelbrock 1406 carb??

Thanks
18Z

[Ironhorse]

Over the years I have run QJs, Carter AFBs (Edelbrock predecessor) current Edelbrocks and Holleys. They all have their issues if not set up correctly and mated to the correct engine, cam, intake, timing, etc. Holleys worked for me racing my '57 2dr on the 1/4 mile but after three or four runs I always had to readjust the float level. Currently I have an original 600 cfm Carter AFB on a Edellbrock Performer RPM intake, 350 ci. and "built" 700R4 in my '71 Chevelle . Runs great with a generic parts store mechanical fuel pump. '71
4x4 truck has a Edelbrock #9625 (625 cfm) on Edlebrock intake, stock 350 and also generic parts store mechanical pump. No fuel regulators on either one but I do run a phenolic spacer on both. No hard hot starts on either. Only issue I have if either vehicle sets for a couple weeks of no run time I do have to prime the carb. Thinking that is due to fuel evaporation from the bowl, may be wrong on that but not a big deal to me.

Carb opinions are like bellybuttons, everybody has one!!

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by 18Z

I know this is an old thread but I do have a question for Tx firefighter and jmking9. Which phenolic spacer do you recommend for a edelbrock 1406 carb??

Thanks
18Z

IBZ, I have a spare phenolic spacer hanging in the shop. Will look at it tomorrow and see if it has any #s or such on it. The ones I use have four individual venture holes to correctly fit the carb base. They ARE NOT a full open hole.

[engineer_gregh]

18Z this is the spacer thats been on my truck since 2014 with no issues. 350-9265 HEAT INSULATOR GASKT

[Eddie H.]

I guess I may as well join in beating this dead horse. I have been running Carter AFB/Edlebrock carbs completely trouble free for more than 40 years. I have never used a fuel pressure regulator or aftermarket fuel pump, and I always use a phenolic spacer to prevent heat soak/percolation. That's just my experience, for whatever it's worth. Other folks may have different results.

[18Z]

Eddie H. Which spacer do you use?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Ironhorse: 9625 is a Carter AFB number. I have a Carter AFB 9625A on my V8 350 in a '71 GMC Jimmy [k/5]. I tune it as an Edelbrock 1405 [manual choke]. I always thought it flowed 600 CFM, but there's no way to measure at this end. Carter designed and produced the AFB, then got bought out by Federal Mogul, who continued the "AFB Performance Series" carbs. The same [Weber?] plant was making the same carb for both FM (dba ''Carter'') and Edelbrock. The "Performer" Eddies were shinier and retailed higher for the same carb. Eventually FM dropped out of the carb line, leaving Edselbrock as the only game in town.
About 10 years ago, I put a Holley fuel pressure regulator inline to my AFB on the Jimmy, as advised by the many experts on this board. I wasn't passing AZ emissions, and after trying everything myself, got hold of a pro mechanic. First thing he did was tell me to lose the regulator. I still have it -- in the parts drawer.
Phenolic spacer is a must. I have a 1/2" tall aluminum Offy Squarebore/Spreadbore adapter on the bottom, over my Wieand 8004 intake, and a 1/2'' phenolic 4-hole spacer directly under the 9625A.

[Eddie H.]

Originally Posted by 18Z

Eddie H. Which spacer do you use?

On my last 2 Edlebrocks, I just used a generic 4 hole 1 inch plastic spacer that I picked up at a swap meet. It really doesn't matter much what you use, as long as it insulates the carburetor from the manifold heat. You could probably make one out of a piece of wood and it would work just fine.

[Ironhorse]

IBZ, pics of the 4 hole style phenolic spacer I use. Will require longer carb studs but they can be had at most decent parts houses, even O'reilly, Auto Zone etc. I DO NOT use the full open QJ style figuring without the 4 smaller seperate venturi openings that match the Carter/lEdelbrock base plate, the full open style would cause a turbulence to the air downflow. ??? Not sure bout that but seems reasonable to me. The spacer is 1'' thick, could use 1/2'' also, the smooth flat portion is the top which goes against the carb baseplate, the more open portion goes to the intake / gasket area. Not familiar with the HVH logo, picked this up at a swap meet for $5 just to have a spare. Hope this helps and good luck with your carb issues.

Got curious and Googled: " HVH Phenolic carb spacer " Came up at being High Velocity Heads, an aftermarket speed/race product company. Spacer sells thru Jegs for $89.00 plus ship so guess the $5 was well spent.

'68OrangeSunshine, thanks for the info on the #9625A carb. I was told it was an Edelbrock when I bought it at a swap meet years ago, $15-20 don't recall for sure. Used an Edelbrock kit for the rebuild and works great, truck is quite healthy when I push the romp on it pedal. Never checked the carb # thru Google, Google is your friend as they say. I use it a lot.

[Myoldtruck]

Im also running a 5psi regulator before the carb. I also had alot of problems with jetting. Doing research the 1406 is jetted leaner than the 1405 manual choke model. I rejetted the 1406 to the 1405 specs. Truck runs very well now, it has a stock mr gasket crate 350.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

'68OrangeSunshine, thanks for the info on the #9625A carb. I was told it was an Edelbrock when I bought it at a swap meet years ago, $15-20 don't recall for sure. Used an Edelbrock kit for the rebuild and works great, truck is quite healthy when I push the romp on it pedal. Never checked the carb # thru Google, Google is your friend as they say. I use it a lot.

Tomato, tomahto. Basicially the same carb with 2 different retail vendors at one time. Now only one.
Like GMC/ Chevy... Rolls Royce/ Bentley. The badging affects the price tag, not the internal quality.
Good score.
Just remember when you call Edelbrock's tech line, don't let on that you have a Carter AFB, they'll dummy up.
Some matches:
Edl-1405 = AFB 9625A
Edl-1400 = AFB 9635 [w/EGR]

[18Z]

Also is the stock spacer with the tube angled on it needed if it's not hooked up to anything, I also attached pictures of my engine which as you can see doesn't have the phenolic spacer which I will put on when I get one.

[Ironhorse]

After looking at the pic I would say that is not an original air breather spacer for the 67-72 trucks. Does not seem tall enough and the tube comes off at a straight level, not angled back and down like would be on an original. would originally be rotated back further towards the distributor. I see you are using a push-in style breather on the passenger side valve cover. That valve cover hole would normally be used to connect to the air breather spacer thru a rubber hose with an end fitting similar to a PCV valve which has a screened flame arrester pushed into the valve cover hole with a rubber grommet. The purpose of that hose is to draw off crankcase pressure and fumes up from the valve cover into the breather and on into the carb to be burned and exit thru the engine exhaust. As you have it now, the spacer being plugged off and using the push in breather cap is fine. Hope all that makes sense, maybe another member can chime in with a better explanation.

[afdcaptain]

I know this is an old thread. I have just installed a Eldelbrock carb. Question is I have the throttle cable that goes into a bracket with the rubber grommet. I installed the ball on the carb for the linkage but if I use my original bracket the throttle cable is to long. Any help. Only reason for switching carbs is that the divorced choke spring is broke.