For Those Doing Disk Brakes. 60-66

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Classic Performance Rear Disc Braking
For '63-87 Chevy Trucks
Classic Performance Products
Converting to Rear Disc Brakes
without breaking your wallet!
Classic Performance Products offers a complete bolt-on rear disc brake kit for most early Chevys as well as many musclecars. Shown here is the complete rear disc brake kit for '55-64 fullsize Chevys using an original rear axle (power brake booster and emergency brake cables are optional, but also available from CPP). This is a complete kit, with all necessary hardware and instructions.

Front & Rear Disc Brake Kits
http://www.classicperform.com/6092chevtrk.htm

http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...rakes-tech.htm

http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...kes-trucks.htm

Upgrade Your '60-'66 Chevy/GMC To Power Brakes
In Only A Few Minutes
http://www.classicperform.com/quickstop.htm

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...rt1/index.html

Resto-Mod Technology Ltd
http://www.resto-modtechnology.com/s...147/Categories

6-LUG TO 5-LUG ADAPTERS
http://www.adaptitusa.com/index.asp?...TS&Category=10

Fatman Fabrications Inc.
http://www.fatmanfab.com/products.htm

Heidt's Hot Rod Shop
http://www.heidts.com/heichevy.htm



http://www.customclassictrucks.com/f...bed/index.html

Suspensions

1960 - 1962 1/2- and 3/4-ton Chevrolet & GMC - torsion bar front end, coil springs in rear. The 1-ton and bigger trucks, had torsion bar front end, leaf springs in rear.

1963 - 1966 Chevrolet - coil springs front and rear 1/2- and 3/4-ton. The 1-ton trucks had leaf springs rear, coil springs in front.

1963 - 1966 GMC - leaf springs rear, coil springs in front, 1/2-, 3/4- and 1-ton
Canadian Trucks, both GMC and Chevy are the same as US built Chevy.

REMEMBER......YOU ALWAYS CAN CHANGE THE REAR END FOR AN UPGRADED REAR END WITH DISK BRAKES AND THE 5 LUG PATTERN. I HAVE A 8.8 FORD REAR END THAT WILL MOUNT ON A 1962 CHEVY TRUCK!!!!! I USED TO HAVE IT ON MY TRUCK BEFORE I PUT THE FORD 9" ON IT. THE 9" IS OUT OF A 56 FORD WAGON. (DRUMS) THINKING ABOUT UPGRADING TO DISK TO HELP STOP ALL THOSE MIKEY THOMPSONS.......

[joe231]

I know all about the 5 lug swap, but is there a 6 lug disc swap using stock parts? I know there are 6 lug kits, but they want too much, I wanna do it on the cheap. What was the first year Chevys/GMCs came with front discs? maybe just do the 5 lug spindles and after-market 6 lug rotors from CPP?

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by joe231

What was the first year Chevys/GMCs came with front discs? maybe just do the 5 lug spindles and after-market 6 lug rotors from CPP?

1971 was the first year for disc brakes but they also were 5-lug.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

If Chevy trucks have even the slightest downfall worth noting, it's their lack of quality brakes. Although we as enthusiasts consider trucks as the primary vehicle of interest, it seems as though GM does not. until just recently, no light-duty Chevy truck came from the factory with four-wheel disc brakes. And before 1971, none of the GM truck line had disc brakes at all. This seems even stranger when you consider that trucks are heavy and often times extreme braking power is required to stop, especially when towing a trailer or driving a loaded truck. As consumers began latching onto the older Chevys, the need for improved braking became a reality. If you dump ten grand into a classic truck, you definitely want it to stop on demand. Prior to 1971 (First Year), all Chevy trucks came equipped with traditional drum brakes, forcing enthusiasts to seek out aftermarket disc brake conversion kits designed to work specifically with older trucks. This lack of factory brake options and performance was the founding force for Classic Performance Products, who have created a power disc brake line for nearly every popular model of Chevy car or truck, as well as most Ford applications, But with a heafty price $1,500 +/-. http://www.classicperform.com/6092chevtrk.htm When dealing with classic Chevys, more particularly, those from the 60s to the 80s, there more many unique applications which can be applied depending on the truck and the owner's specifications. Power brakes, disc/drum applications and bolt patterns are all elements that play a role in choosing the appropriate kit. I think...But don't hold me to it, A set of stock 73-87 chevy 1/2 ton pickup spindles might work for the conversion. Any 73-79 will work, 80-87 must have the 1-1/4" rotors. The 80-87 year spindles come with 1" rotors are 'light duty' and won't work with the 6-lug rotors. I hope the links below help. I'm not a expert just listen to fellas who have done this. If anything you may call CCP and ask for advice.
But I don't know If that will help....
I hope the links below help

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=209956

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...php/t-866.html

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2652815

[joe231]

Originally Posted by 502tripower

1971 was the first year for disc brakes but they also were 5-lug.

That is what I was thinking, thanks

Originally Posted by 1Bad62Pro/Street

If Chevy trucks have even the slightest downfall worth noting, it's their lack of quality brakes. Although we as enthusiasts consider trucks as the primary vehicle of interest, it seems as though GM does not. until just recently, no light-duty Chevy truck came from the factory with four-wheel disc brakes. And before 1971, none of the GM truck line had disc brakes at all. This seems even stranger when you consider that trucks are heavy and often times extreme braking power is required to stop, especially when towing a trailer or driving a loaded truck. As consumers began latching onto the older Chevys, the need for improved braking became a reality. If you dump ten grand into a classic truck, you definitely want it to stop on demand. Prior to 1971 (First Year), all Chevy trucks came equipped with traditional drum brakes, forcing enthusiasts to seek out aftermarket disc brake conversion kits designed to work specifically with older trucks. This lack of factory brake options and performance was the founding force for Classic Performance Products, who have created a power disc brake line for nearly every popular model of Chevy car or truck, as well as most Ford applications, But with a heafty price $1,500 +/-. http://www.classicperform.com/6092chevtrk.htm When dealing with classic Chevys, more particularly, those from the 60s to the 80s, there more many unique applications which can be applied depending on the truck and the owner's specifications. Power brakes, disc/drum applications and bolt patterns are all elements that play a role in choosing the appropriate kit. I think...But don't hold me to it, A set of stock 73-87 chevy 1/2 ton pickup spindles might work for the conversion. Any 73-79 will work, 80-87 must have the 1-1/4" rotors. The 80-87 year spindles come with 1" rotors are 'light duty' and won't work with the 6-lug rotors. I hope the links below help. I'm not a expert just listen to fellas who have done this. If anything you may call CCP and ask for advice.
But I don't know If that will help....
I hope the links below help

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=209956

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...php/t-866.html

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2652815

cool man! thanks for the info and links!

[aggie91]

joe231 - I think that you can do the 6-lug disc brakes with factory parts. I have not done it, but did some research on the parts. If you use a spindle that came with the 1 1/4" discs from any 1/2 ton truck from 73-86 and the rotor from a 1990-1994 3/4 ton chevy it should work. The 90-94 3/4 ton (C2500, 7200GVW) uses a 6 lug rotor. The bearings and inner seal are the same for that rotor and the 73-86 rotor. You will have to use the Caliper, hoses and Pads that match the spindle that you use.

The tie rods become an issue, but is easily solved using the Tie Rod adjusting sleeves that Fatman Fab sells (you will have to call them, they are not in thier catalog, there about $40). It uses you orginal OUTER tie rod end and the new INNER tie rod end and you use an OUTER tie rod end (as the new OUTER) from the same year at the spindle.

Let me know if this works for you.

[joe231]

cool, good thinking, i will look in to it. Thanks

[sleazytiki]

Brotherstrucks has some of thier brake conversions on sale until the end of April.
I may go with the 5 lug 2.5' drop. Its usually $950. and on sale for $700 I'm hurtin for time and need to get up and running quick.

[Tuffy66]

OK, Starting the disc brake conversion on my 66 chevy, but I have questions. I have to use A-arms and spindles from 73-87? Then here is my other question, there is power brakes and non-power brakes? IS there less or more modifications with power brakes or non power? I want power brakes but I am not that mechanically inclinded, so I would like the easiest way. Another question is can I use that A-arms from the 66 i have now, with some type of conversion kit from somewhere? I want to stay with the 6 lug pattern. Thanks for any help!

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by aggie91

joe231 - I think that you can do the 6-lug disc brakes with factory parts. I have not done it, but did some research on the parts. If you use a spindle that came with the 1 1/4" discs from any 1/2 ton truck from 73-86 and the rotor from a 1990-1994 3/4 ton chevy it should work. The 90-94 3/4 ton (C2500, 7200GVW) uses a 6 lug rotor. The bearings and inner seal are the same for that rotor and the 73-86 rotor. You will have to use the Caliper, hoses and Pads that match the spindle that you use.

The tie rods become an issue, but is easily solved using the Tie Rod adjusting sleeves that Fatman Fab sells (you will have to call them, they are not in thier catalog, there about $40). It uses you orginal OUTER tie rod end and the new INNER tie rod end and you use an OUTER tie rod end (as the new OUTER) from the same year at the spindle.

Let me know if this works for you.

I tried this very setup with no luck.It bearings and seals are the same and will fit on the spindle but when you go to put the brakes on no go.The races for the bearing are offset in a different spot so the rotor hits the outer brake pad by over a 1/4 inch.the only solution i could see would be grinding the mountg surface on the caliper and spindle down but i wasnt going to take the chance.Long story short I bought lug rotors from cpp for the same price autozones 88 up heavy half ton rotors cost.Now if you could use an 88 up spindle on our truck it might work.88 up trucks have a slight positive offset on their wheels I think this is why the 88 up rotors were futher out than 71-87 rotors.good luck

[joe231]

check this out
linky

[suicide 63]

It will work then but have to use 88 up ball joints spindles calipers 1 1/4 inch 6 lug rotors and correct a-arms, I already had my 73-87 drop spindles so i didnt want to change from that.All said and done after all new parts and chasing them down the kit is abought the same price .Just my opinion.

[63_C10]

ok, i'm kinda new on here also. i want to do the cheaper swap (spindles, brake hardware, tie rods), but want to have the power booster as well. it will be installed on a '63 lwb with a 230 i6. i want to make sure i list everything i need to do, and if i'm wrong or forgot something, please let me know.

drill new holes for power booster/master cylinder, extend brake pedal push rod (i think someone said 1 1/14" ??), prop valve w/wire running to brake light switch to kick off valve, disc spindles, rotors, calipers, my outer tie rod ends, donor outer tie rod ends, adapter for tie rod ends, brake lines, tie into vacuum line somewhere.

did i miss anything?? haha! what about the rubber hose going to the caliper? any paticular year i need to get that off of? what year donor truck would be the best fit for me? i dont mind having the metal bushings. what vacuum line should i tie into for the booster? if i decide to not do the booster, how good do the disc brakes work on manual brakes? can ya tell i have no idea what i'm doing? ha! thank goodness for my dad!

[joe231]

Originally Posted by 63_C10

ok, i'm kinda new on here also. i want to do the cheaper swap (spindles, brake hardware, tie rods), but want to have the power booster as well. it will be installed on a '63 lwb with a 230 i6. i want to make sure i list everything i need to do, and if i'm wrong or forgot something, please let me know.

drill new holes for power booster/master cylinder, extend brake pedal push rod (i think someone said 1 1/14" ??), prop valve w/wire running to brake light switch to kick off valve, disc spindles, rotors, calipers, my outer tie rod ends, donor outer tie rod ends, adapter for tie rod ends, brake lines, tie into vacuum line somewhere.

did i miss anything?? haha! what about the rubber hose going to the caliper? any paticular year i need to get that off of? what year donor truck would be the best fit for me? i dont mind having the metal bushings. what vacuum line should i tie into for the booster? if i decide to not do the booster, how good do the disc brakes work on manual brakes? can ya tell i have no idea what i'm doing? ha! thank goodness for my dad!

that wire is supposed to go the ground side of a warning light. it tells you if you have lost pressure to one of your hydraulic circuits by completing the warning light circuit (by grounding out if there is a pressure difference between your front and rear brakes, ie. a leak). it doesn't have to be connected to anything for the brakes to work properly

[sixtyfour]

I'm going to do a disc brake upgrade w/dropped spindles this weekend. I decided to go with Early Classic Enterprises kit for a couple of reasons, first being that all the components are made in the USA which is important to me, no import stuff! The spindles are cast by Early Classics and the rest of the parts are from Raybestos and Federal Mogul. The second reason is you keep the factory components, no swapping out tie-rods, ball joints or control arms to work with the new spindles. Makes the job easier. I plan to document the install so stay tuned...

Click pics for bigger image.





Backing plates painted and brakes assembled ready for install.





Master cylinder semi assembled waiting to be bench bled.






Brake install complete, the only problem I ran into was my stock wheels did not clear the calipers. Once I pre-assembled most of the parts, the install took about 5 hours. You will also need a brake line bender tool, wheel bearing grease and of course brake fluid, other then that the kit came with everything needed right down to the cotter pins.

[1966gmc]

w00t,my buddy blew the engine in his 79 chevy and guess what,I'm buying it for a disc brake swap for 100 bones.Now my question is,the 79 has leaf springs in the rear like my 66 gmc does.I assume I could straight swap the entire axle assembly right?I sure as hell hope so lol

[scotts62]

Yeah that would be the easiest way.

[63Belair]

I've been following this thread from the beginning and just completed installing the complete frontend from a 78 GMC 1/2 ton to a 62 frame.
For me it was far less work to change everything over including the crossmember. I think I had to drill maybe 2 new holes in the 62 frame rails to get everything bolted in. I might mention, the frame rails on the 62 are shorter than the 78 so I had to fab a little to use the 78 motor mounts. I fabricated a mounting bracket to mount the powersteering gear from the 78 to the 62 frame. I installed a 4-link posi from a 70 Caprice on the same frame, which was a lot more work than the frontend. I'll attach pics in a few days. Great site, thanks for the tips.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by 1966gmc

w00t,my buddy blew the engine in his 79 chevy and guess what,I'm buying it for a disc brake swap for 100 bones.Now my question is,the 79 has leaf springs in the rear like my 66 gmc does.I assume I could straight swap the entire axle assembly right?I sure as hell hope so lol

I believe that the 79 rear end is wider then the 66. It will work as long as the spring perches on the axle housing are the same distance apart on both set ups.

[63sbssbbw]

What size press will I need to extract lower ball joints??
Obviously a 30 ton will do the trick,but will a 12 ton get it done??
And just to be sure.....
Removal: out through the bottom v
Install: up through the bottom ^
essentially sandwiching the lca between the bj and spindle.
Thanks,Trent

[DBRENNAN5876]

Will a 3/4 ton between the years of 1973-87 work for a 1965 c10 stepside disc brake conversion? That way you will have to 6 lug disc. I don't think it will...but maybe I am wrong.

Thanks

[DBRENNAN5876]

Alright I need some help please...I am planning on doing the disc brake conversion on my 1965 Chevy C10 Stepside 2wd truck. I found a 1986 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd Van for real cheap. Whould the work to convert from...or is the frame/a-arm set up different on a van then a 1/2ton truck of the same year?

Thanks

[suicide 63]

Originally Posted by DBRENNAN5876

Will a 3/4 ton between the years of 1973-87 work for a 1965 c10 stepside disc brake conversion? That way you will have to 6 lug disc. I don't think it will...but maybe I am wrong.

Thanks

yes you need 73-87 3/4-1 ton lower control arms to do a 6 lug disc brake swap with stock 88-98 truck parts.Check out my crew cab build thread It is a square body but the concept is the same.As for van parts I dont know but I doubt it.

[mlmccauley]

I have a '60 Apache with 6 lug wheels and torsion bars. 350 V8 & 4sp AT, PS, otherwise stock.

I've seen kits to put 6 lug disk brakes on this model, not insanely priced but not cheap either, that do the modification by changing the spindles only, retaining the stock ball joints and tie rod ends. They look to be a simple 1-2 day jacked-up-in-the-driveway bolt on job.

I'd REALLY rather not change out the A-arms (due to the torsion bars), much less the entire cross member.

Is it possible to do this same kind of modification using stock parts, or is it necessary/advisable to buy one of the kits?

I'm not after high performance/handling, just decent brakes. This is more-less a work truck, not a street rod.

Any other ideas/comments?

Thanks!

Mike

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by DBRENNAN5876

Alright I need some help please...I am planning on doing the disc brake conversion on my 1965 Chevy C10 Stepside 2wd truck. I found a 1986 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd Van for real cheap. Whould the work to convert from...or is the frame/a-arm set up different on a van then a 1/2ton truck of the same year?

Thanks

I did a quick search on Rock Auto, the upper and lower A-Arms are the same for the 1986 G-10 Van as they are for the 1986 C-10 pickup. I would swap out the upper and lower A-Arms, spindles and brakes from the van and you would have your 5 lug and all for the front. OR you could just use the spindle/brake assy if you current arms and bushings are in good shape. You would just need to swap to the 1986 upper and lower ball joints.

Either way the stock 1965 outer tie rod would become the inner tie rod and use the 1986 van outer tie rod with a adapter adjuster sleeve made by Fatman Fabrication.