Rear custom four link pics!

[Kim57]

Looks nice.
I think I would add some gussets to the top loop.
Kim

[G&R's57GMC]

I did a NoLimit front and rear air suspension

[G&R's57GMC]

Note how the track bar is level at ride height

[nebdrummer]

heres mine finished. Painting the box and running boards this week!.

[Speedbumpauto]

Pretty sweet from a drag race/pro street point of view. What are you going to do to the bed to make it look right?

[nebdrummer]

Thanks. I could have gotten away without the small tubs, but I plan on using a 31" slick down the road. With that and room for growth and bump, it was getting too close.

[Speedbumpauto]

Nice work. Seems capable of 9's but I see no provisions for the required steel. That's what killed my 10 second plan. Just couldn't make myself put the 6 pt hoop in it. Will settle for unmolested 11.50's.....if that. I'd like to do it on street tires but the Hoosiers I'm using are pretty hard.

[nebdrummer]

Yeah, I've been severely on the edge for putting a cage in it. I've seen it done going through the back window before on these, so that keeps my hope up. But first of all, I wanna get my tune worked out great before I start working on racing it. Even then, there's plenty of test and tune nights that I will be able to get away with some quicker passes. My ultimate goal is drag week. And for that I would need an 8.5 cert. definetaly doable. I think a guy quoted me for migging one for 1600 in mild steel. I think if it comes to it, I'll just buy my own bender and do my own.

[Speedbumpauto]

Noble goal, drag week. 15 or so years ago when I started I had the same goal, a real street/strip drag week machine and a truck seemed perfect for hauling what you need. Needless to say, drag week has gotten so far out of control, IMO, that I don't even consider it anymore. Are you doing big inch or power adder?

[nebdrummer]

I think with my suspension,wheels, and frame mods, I get pushed into pro-street power adder. I would be in the top 3-5. But definitely no win for me. It's just always been a life goal.

I think if I were to get a wheel/tire setup that worked for me with 11.2" max tread, and get it to hook up for me, then I could be in the small block power adder class. The last 3 years there was just a couple that were running well into the 8's. The guy that has one it the last 2 years is doing my machine work on the motor. Motor will be forged (stock crank)370cid lq4. Billet 80mm turbo, custom cam, csu blow thru carb, and a bunch of other crap. Should be a fun little toy.

[Speedbumpauto]

Really good stuff. Good luck!

[niper0108]

I used a triangulated 4 link kit from Gearhead enterprises off eBay...

[dwcsr]

I did the 67-72 truck arm as well. I saw LEEVON's and decided it was a better choice for what I was doing with the rest of the truck. Its fits very well which surprised me, we just had to make spring pads because we weren't using bags.

[dubie]

NICE!!! I've been thinking of using the trailing arm set up from a 67-72 on our 58 GMC as well. I've had many truck with this set up and they have all been great riding trucks. It's nice to see people have already done it.

[Dan in Pasadena]

At the risk of being called a heretic, burning at the stake, being pelted by rotten fruit, etc....why do I NEED a four link setup?

This is NOT a criticism of what anyone has done. I "know" and very much respect a lot of the guys that have posted on this subject but if I'm running a warmed over 283/TH350 and have no intention whatsoever of drag racing or auto crossing my truck, why do I need this? Isn't a properly geared 10 bolt and a sway bar more than adequate for cruising?

I REALLY would like to hear why, if the opinions are that its worth doing.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

At the risk of being called a heretic, burning at the stake, being pelted by rotten fruit, etc....why do I NEED a four link setup?

This is NOT a criticism of what anyone has done. I "know" and very much respect a lot of the guys that have posted on this subject but if I'm running a warmed over 283/TH350 and have no intention whatsoever of drag racing or auto crossing my truck, why do I need this? Isn't a properly geared 10 bolt and a sway bar more than adequate for cruising?

I REALLY would like to hear why, if the opinions are that its worth doing.

REPENT BLASPHEMER !!!!!.

You don't need to have one it just makes the ride better. I like it because its fun to do and it rides very well.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ha ha, plum Snsorry Dave! Forgive me my brothers in truck love!

Seriously there are other sites where your comment might not be a joke!

So the ordinary rive around tow is more omfortable with a four link? May I ask why? You still have springs and shock absorbers dealing with the bumps, right? I'm assuming without airbags.r

[dubie]

It helps the suspension articulate more giving you a less stiff, more comfortable ride in the end.instead of having leaf springs that move in a parallel fashion, you get trailing arms that move with the curves and bumps of the road.

[ccrane0044]

Just finished up the shock crossmember, just need to do some filal welding then the frames going out for sandblasting and paint. Let me know what you guess think.

[Kim57]

Looks good but if it were mine I would try and get the shocks more vertical as they would work better.
Kim

[ccrane0044]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Looks good but if it were mine I would try and get the shocks more vertical as they would work better.
Kim

Thanks for the input, I'm going to be looking into that as someone else mentioned the same thing. I was just hoping to not make the bracket stick up to high or low and that's the angle that put my ride hight in the middle of the shock stroke so hoping it will be OK. Thanks for the input this is my first build so any help is appreciated.

[Kim57]

The brackets that hold your bars to your rear axle were also designed to mount your shocks.
I would leave the top height of the shock where you have it but make it wider and just lower the mounting point on the axle.
Kim

[ccrane0044]

Originally Posted by Kim57

The brackets that hold your bars to your rear axle were also designed to mount your shocks.
I would leave the top height of the shock where you have it but make it wider and just lower the mounting point on the axle.
Kim

If I do alter it in any way it will be that. Thanks for the advice.

[Wheelie]

You want no more than 20 deg tilt in your shocks to prevent bind. If your shocks don't fit in that range of tilt then they may be the wrong length.

[DirtyDon]

Also, keep in mind, the closer the shock is mounted to the wheel, the better control it has.