72 C10 for my 25th wedding anniversary

[MDPotter]

That looks factory to me! Good work.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

That looks factory to me! Good work.

Thanks,
This method seems to really work well, and saved on having to do more welding and grinding.

[sfont66]

Wow, where did all that time go !?
A few updates:
I needed to upgrade the Boyd tank to handle fuel injection. I ordered the Boyd In-Tank pump assembly, with aeromotive 340 pump. I had missed a great deal on a FAST intake complete with injectors, rails,and throttle body. I admit it was more than I currently need, but I was thinking of future needs. Anyway having missed that “great deal”, I still wanted a better intake, so I decided on a ls6 intake as a compromise. The Ls 6 “returnless” style fuel rail along with the C5 corvette fuel filter/regulator was not recommended with the 340 pump, so I now needed to run fuel supply and return lines all the way to the front, and order new fuel rails, and regulator.
The intake was a bit dirty inside, so I wanted to clean it up before I installed it. After removing the fuel rails, injectors, and MAP sensor, etc, I first tried cleaning it with brake cleaner, which worked pretty good, but not good enough. I then soaked the intake in a plastic storage bin filled with hot water and Dawn dish soap. This worked way better. I then took it up to the car wash and used the hot water and soap to clean it further and rinse it out.
It was also recommended that I run a Hot wire kit with relay and circuit breaker to wire the fuel pump . I chose the Aeromotive kit, part # 16307. It seems to be of good quality, and have plenty of wire.
More in a bit….

[MDPotter]

Good choice going with Boyd's. It's a top notch tank and I wish I would have splurged on that.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Good choice going with Boyd's. It's a top notch tank and I wish I would have splurged on that.

I agree, it’s a high quality tank, I have no complaints. I would buy one again, as well as recommend them to others.

[sfont66]

A few weeks ago I was able to set the cab back on the frame with new mounts, I left the bolts a bit loose until I can set the front clip once again. With the cab in place I needed to patch and cut a new hole in the transmission tunnel, being that it is a high hump and removable, made it so much easier.
I was also able to mount the clutch cylinder and components for the hydraulic clutch.
The alternator/ power steering mount was going to be in the way of the throttle body on the Ls 6 intake, so I needed to cut off the portion with the idler pulley, and relocate the idler pulley using a kit front ICT. After cutting that portion off , I sandblasted the modified mount to clean it up.
A few other things needed to make the intake fit easier were ICT coolant crossover lines, and water pump spacers, along with a water pump for a 2002 Camaro.
Next on the list will be fuel rails and regulator. Very soon the front clip needs to go back on, so I can figure out some wiring, fans and most likely a Holley Terminator engine management system.

[sfont66]

I wanted to keep my mechanical gauges, at least for now. I had ordered some adapters from ICT billet. I thought the adapter that replaced the oil pressure sending unit worked very well. I did not like the adapter for the water temp sensor. I thought it stuck out way too far, and I had my reservations as to weather it would even read accurately, since the probe was not in the water jacket.
I chose to not use the ICT adapter, and instead drilled and taped the hole for 3/8 NPT . Credit for this should go to mongocanfly, I saw a tip he shared with another member and saved it just in case I didn’t care for the adapter.
I really like this option , as I think it looks better and will perform better as well.

[sfont66]

Progress has been a bit slow, but over the past few weeks, I managed to drill out a broken exhaust manifold bolt, and use a Heli coil kit to repair the threads.
I tried to weld a nut to the bolt several times, and back the bolt out, but the bolt was too seized up. I forgot to take final pics, but it looks just like newly tapped threads.
Until I can upgrade the injectors, cam, and throttle body, I decided to clean up the old ls6 injectors. A cheap kit found on Amazon seems to work very well, new o rings replaced the old cracked & brittle ones. The ls6 injectors are now back in the intake along with new fuel rails, lines, and fuel pressure regulator.
Recently I was able to purchase the Holley Terminator X engine management system, I like the reviews on this system, hopefully the install will go well.
I have a lot to learn about electrical, and wiring , but I’m learning, and it has been a fun process, for the most part.

[sfont66]

Started laying out the Holley terminator harness, I originally thought I would mount the ECU under the dash. But I didn’t like the look of drilling a 2” hole in the firewall, now I am hoping to mount the ECU under the seat and run the harness down the transmission tunnel, and up under the seat to make all the connections. It’s early in the process, but it does appear that the harness has enough length to do this.
More to come….

[MDPotter]

We had one manifold bolt that was a real struggle and ended up using a helicoil too. On a couple others, we were able to build up some weld and then weld to a nut and that worked well. The combination of heat and actually having something to put a wrench on worked well.

We also have a Terminator on order, but who knows when it will be here.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

We had one manifold bolt that was a real struggle and ended up using a helicoil too. On a couple others, we were able to build up some weld and then weld to a nut and that worked well. The combination of heat and actually having something to put a wrench on worked well.

We also have a Terminator on order, but who knows when it will be here.

I hope the terminator works out well …
Did you start on the 1993 ? Or is this for a different project?

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by sfont66

I hope the terminator works out well …
Did you start on the 1993 ? Or is this for a different project?

I have high hopes for it! We just pulled it into the shop and started tearing it apart this week.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

I have high hopes for it! We just pulled it into the shop and started tearing it apart this week.

Awesome! I will be following this build as well, this is another of my favorite body styles!

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by sfont66

Awesome! I will be following this build as well, this is another of my favorite body styles!

I guess I better do a build thread for it then!

[sfont66]

I haven’t been able to work on the truck as much as I would like. On 1/6/22 I came down with COVID. Even though fully vaccinated, I still got all the symptoms: 102 fever, strong body aches, chills, dizziness, cough and sore throat.
Fever and body aches lasted for 4-5 days, doctors made me quarantine 10 full days. Cough and fatigue still persists….. but it could have been worse the doctors say.
Anyway I felt good enough today to work in the shop for a couple hours, I wanted to see if the wiring harness would have enough length to mount the ECU under the seat.
As it turns out there is plenty of length to do this. I used cable clamps and removed 4 of the original bolts from the high hump transmission tunnel cover, installed 1/4” bolts thru the original cover holes to bolt the cable clamps to the underside, then I drilled a hole with a 2” hole saw in the floor pan in a location under the seat. The power cable runs through a existing hole that formerly was used for fuel lines from the old fuel tank. The power cable will have a short run to the battery, mounted to the frame on the passenger side behind the cab

[MDPotter]

Very nice and clean. I had the 'rona at the first of January as well, and so did most of my family. We finally got out Terminator last week!

Question - what did you blast your power steering/alternator bracket with? Glass bead?

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Very nice and clean. I had the 'rona at the first of January as well, and so did most of my family. We finally got out Terminator last week!

Question - what did you blast your power steering/alternator bracket with? Glass bead?

Thanks, I thought this way was cleaner than going through the firewall, I’m happy that the harness has plenty of length to do this.

Hopefully you and your family don’t suffer any lasting affects from the virus. It’s odd how some have very mild symptoms, and others suffer much more!

I don’t have a blasting cabinet, although they are very handy, I worked in shops years ago that had large blasting cabinets, and employees could use them after hours,or during lunch. If they have enough air pressure they do a great job.
For many years since I have used a pressure pot type sand blaster. It’s messy, so I use it outside, it works great on large or small parts.

Anyway, back to your question. I use silica sand for more delicate parts, or on the cast aluminum brackets, where a smoother finish is desired, and Black Diamond for heavy rust scale on frames or suspension parts. I think the Black Diamond Grit is pulverized boiler slag, or coal slag. As always, be certain to wear a respirator or supplied air hood when blasting, the dust is very bad for you as I’m sure you know. If you have a Menards or Home Depot near you, they should have it there .

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by sfont66

Thanks, I thought this way was cleaner than going through the firewall, I’m happy that the harness has plenty of length to do this.

Hopefully you and your family don’t suffer any lasting affects from the virus. It’s odd how some have very mild symptoms, and others suffer much more!

I don’t have a blasting cabinet, although they are very handy, I worked in shops years ago that had large blasting cabinets, and employees could use them after hours,or during lunch. If they have enough air pressure they do a great job.
For many years since I have used a pressure pot type sand blaster. It’s messy, so I use it outside, it works great on large or small parts.

Anyway, back to your question. I use silica sand for more delicate parts, or on the cast aluminum brackets, where a smoother finish is desired, and Black Diamond for heavy rust scale on frames or suspension parts. I think the Black Diamond Grit is pulverized boiler slag, or coal slag. As always, be certain to wear a respirator or supplied air hood when blasting, the dust is very bad for you as I’m sure you know. If you have a Menards or Home Depot near you, they should have it there .

It wasn't fun, but we all got through it okay. Dad didn't get it by some miracle. But yes, it could have been much worse.

We have some silica sand so I'll give that a try. I saw a guy on YouTube that made a wet sandblaster with a cabinet and it left a really nice finish on the LS aluminum parts, but it would be a bit of a mess to clean up.

[sfont66]

I have been try to finish up the wiring, but hit a roadblock. In the cab, a large portion of the wiring needs to pass through the carpet under the seat. It’s a lot easier to do this with the carpet in place, and feed it from the top side rather than from underneath.
I had ordered ACC carpet from Rockauto back in December, but that carpet was too short by 6” even though I ordered it to go all the way to the back of the cab. I sent it back and ordered a replacement , that carpet was cut very poorly by the transmission tunnel, and was out of square by 3” and short. It was impossible to square up in the cab, I sent that carpet back also. I again reordered another carpet, it arrived today, and this time I think it it will work. I usually let it sit in the sun for several hours to help the carpet relax, get rid of wrinkles, and form better. But today I just threw it in to test fit it. It looks like it will be fine….
Now I can try to get more of the wiring done.
While waiting on carpet I did manage to get the speedometer cable installed. The original cable was 60” long and it was too short. I ordered a 70” cable from GMC Pauls, and it fits perfectly.
I also am going to use stock 1972 style power steering hose and return lines. The metal tube portion of the lines need to be bent to fit better, but seem to work ok. I did need to swap the 1” fitting from the 72 PS pump into the LS pump in order to use the 72 PS pressure line.
The fitting on the left is from the 72 PS pump, the fitting on the right is from the LS pump. The difference is the fitting from the 72 pump allows use of hoses with flared fittings, the Ls style needs fittings with O rings

[sfont66]

Couple more pics….

[MDPotter]

I think at least half of us have had trouble with ACC carpets - mostly the low hump vs high hump.

You should mock up your power steering lines with your inner fender to make sure your lines will clear. The bend in one or both of those lines where they thread into the steering gear has to be really tight.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

I think at least half of us have had trouble with ACC carpets - mostly the low hump vs high hump.

You should mock up your power steering lines with your inner fender to make sure your lines will clear. The bend in one or both of those lines where they thread into the steering gear has to be really tight.

This is good advice.

The replacement parts are not as close to the originals as they should be. The high pressure line is close, but not exactly original . The bend at the steering box is not as tight as the original. It will take some work to be right. The replacement non pressure return line is not close enough, and I will have to use the original.
I have yet to install the front clip, perhaps next week. The replacement pressure line bend at the steering box is hopefully tight enough, I did have to bend it tighter to make it lay flatter on the frame. Interference with the inner fender remains to be seen.

[sfont66]

Over the weekend I was able to install the front clip back onto the truck. New cab mounts seem to work well. Seat and seat belts back in, bumpers back on, body bolts torqued to spec.
It’s so dusty it almost could pass as a “barn find”. It’s been apart for a year now, but it’s getting closer to a running truck again. I really would like to get the body work and paint done, but that is going to have to wait a year or 2. I may shoot some color on the box sides this spring, if time permits….
I still think I want this truck to be Hugger orange someday.
As it turns out, the PS pressure line fits ok after a little work, I may have to make a few tweaks, but it does clear the inner fender. The pics make it look closer than it really is, clearance is 1/4”-3/8” .
I still need to finish wiring, fans, air intake, driveshaft , hoses, etc
One day closer.
Now I need to order more parts…….

[MDPotter]

Progress is progress, no matter how small it may seem.

What are your plans for bodywork? Spray the bed to match the rest of the truck temporarily or go straight to hugger orange now? I think you'll like having the top half of the cab in white and rest in a different color.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Progress is progress, no matter how small it may seem.

What are your plans for bodywork? Spray the bed to match the rest of the truck temporarily or go straight to hugger orange now? I think you'll like having the top half of the cab in white and rest in a different color.

If I was able to get to the bed this spring, it would just be a scuff and shoot situation, to match rest of the truck. Once I have the mechanical stuff well sorted out, I will be able to focus more on the body and paint.
I do like the look of the top of cab white, and lower hugger orange, I may get started on that later this fall, but it is most likely going to be longer. I feel that, in order to do a color change correctly, the cab needs to come back off and paint the underside, firewall and interior as well as the exterior. I will need to upgrade my paint gun also ( my old gun is a 30+ year old Devilbiss Jga 502, yes I bought it new…) I know excuses,excuses. But I do want to drive it a bit first.