LS Cam Swap...

[Hart_Rod]

I got all the parts in to convert my L99 to an LS3. I will be deleting the AFM and the VVT while upgrading to the following Comp Cam, 269LRRHR:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-54-45311.

I'm also upgrading to dual valve springs, hardened push rods, ARP head bolts and doing the trunion upgrade on the rocker arms. This is my first LS "re-build", anyone got any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

[68GMCCustom]

your upgrade kit sounds/looks complete. looks like you got the cam/valve train stuff covered including LS2 style chain tensioner...and is that a new "4x" timing gear?

for DOD I think it adds lifters, lifter cups, oil pan, pickup...maybe another oil path related item. Since you have the vented valley cover I am guessing you are going with new non-vented valve covers? are you taking it all the way down? or just pulling heads/timing cover/oil pan.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

your upgrade kit sounds/looks complete. looks like you got the cam/valve train stuff covered including LS2 style chain tensioner...and is that a new "4x" timing gear?

for DOD I think it adds lifters, lifter cups, oil pan, pickup...maybe another oil path related item. Since you have the vented valley cover I am guessing you are going with new non-vented valve covers? are you taking it all the way down? or just pulling heads/timing cover/oil pan.

The kit came with a new 3 bolt cam timing gear. The DOD delete came with the standard lifters & lifter trays to replace the afm lifters. I haven't seen anything mention swapping out the oil pan. Not sure on the valve covers yet. I'm just pulling the heads/timing cover. The motor only has 135 miles on it, so everything else should be good to go.

[68GMCCustom]

seems to me there's something DOD related in the pan around the filter area....?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

seems to me there's something DOD related in the pan around the filter area....?

There is an oil restrictor/pressure relief valve in the pan but I haven't read where it is necessary to remove it. Have you?
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[68GMCCustom]

everything I've read thus far.....folks with DOD motors that removed it...went with an f-body or other pan.

[Hart_Rod]

This is an FBody motor . As far as the restrictor, I think all that has to be done is remove it and plug the hole.
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[68GMCCustom]

are they still calling it an f-body today.... as in '10up?
just to clarify I meant a '98-'02 f-body.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

are they still calling it an f-body today.... as in '10up?
just to clarify I meant a '98-'02 f-body.

Good question! I see what you are saying now, . The new pans are similar. So I hope I won't have to change the pan out. I'm going to try to do the cam and lifter swap this weekend. Any tips or suggestions?

[68GMCCustom]

I used the 16 pen/magnets trick. After setting motor to line up crank/cam marks (makes installing new set easier) and removing timing set, rocker arms, and p-rods (I upgraded to chro-moly)...I spun the cam I inserted a pen/extendable type magnet into each p-rod hole. Spinning the cam w/o the p-rods in place pushes the lifters up into their pockets. Some say they'll stay there.....I bought 16 pen/magnets and used...just to make sure none of the lifters dropped. Just bend out the clip on the pen magnet so it can't slip down the hole.

I don't have pics of the work in progress with the magnets tho...but this is the style





the valve spring tool I used:


I also swapped out the springs to a dual spring setup with titanium retainers. All that's needed there is the compressor hookup to fill the cylinder with air and hold the valves in place so they don't drop down.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I used the 16 pen/magnets trick. After setting motor to line up crank/cam marks (makes installing new set easier) and removing timing set, rocker arms, and p-rods (I upgraded to chro-moly)...I spun the cam I inserted a pen/extendable type magnet into each p-rod hole. Spinning the cam w/o the p-rods in place pushes the lifters up into their pockets. Some say they'll stay there.....I bought 16 pen/magnets and used...just to make sure none of the lifters dropped. Just bend out the clip on the pen magnet so it can't slip down the hole.

I don't have pics of the work in progress with the magnets tho...but this is the style





the valve spring tool I used:


I also swapped out the springs to a dual spring setup with titanium retainers. All that's needed there is the compressor hookup to fill the cylinder with air and hold the valves in place so they don't drop down.

thanks for info and pics. I'm pulling the heads because I've got to change out the 8 AFM lifters. That should make changing the valve springs a lot easier.

[68GMCCustom]

Oh yes...forgot your motor had DOD. I guess you also know you'll need new head bolts...or studs if you prefer.

[Super73]

Just check the magnet tip of the pen magnets. One time I did it this way and when I pulled the pen out, the magnet stayed on the lifter.. Luckily I was able to get it out with a thin piece of square rod that we ground the tip to a point. But it little rely took us 3 hours.
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[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

Oh yes...forgot your motor had DOD. I guess you also know you'll need new head bolts...or studs if you prefer.

I've got ARP headbolts and new head gaskets. I thought aobut going with the head studs, but they were $200 more. Hopefully I've got everything required to put it back together, .

Originally Posted by Super73

Just check the magnet tip of the pen magnets. One time I did it this way and when I pulled the pen out, the magnet stayed on the lifter.. Luckily I was able to get it out with a thin piece of square rod that we ground the tip to a point. But it little rely took us 3 hours.
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That suxs. At least you didn't have to pull the heads, right?