Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Cadillac Kid · 03-20-2017, 04:12 AM

Hello everyone.

I am cleaning up my engine and engine bay and I bought motor mounts and thought I should change them. I removed the through bolts from the mounts and then jacked up the motor. I pulled two of the three bolts out of the bracket that is attached directly to the block. I was not able to get access to the third one. Then I started realizing that there is no way to remove the mount from the bracket that is attached from the frame because you can't get a wrench to hold the head of the bolt from spinning on the bottom side. Do you have to pull the entire bracket that is attached to the frame off in order to change just the motor mounts? How do you change these motor mounts?

Thank you

-Gavin

KrazyRay · 03-20-2017, 09:38 AM

If the motor is clear from the mounts, I find it easier to pull the brackets from the frame. That way you can clean and paint them while they are out.

SkinnyG · 03-20-2017, 12:59 PM

You ~can~ get the frame mount off, using a basic tool set. I did mine a week or two ago, using merely a pair of wrenches and a socket and ratchet. And a jack to raise the motor.

kipps · 03-20-2017, 07:51 PM

I have a K20, if it makes any difference, but I don't recall having any trouble accessing the three bolts that hold the clamshell mount to the frame bracket. It took two people though, one on top, and one below.

KrazyRay · 03-21-2017, 01:00 AM

The 4wd frames are easier to get to the motor mounts than the 2wd because the 4wd towers are behind the crossmember leaving the bolts accessible.

**MikeB** · 03-21-2017, 09:54 AM

I was able to remove mine while leaving the large bracket attached to the frame. I don't remember the specific problems, but was able to get to the nuts & bolts using tools such as ratcheting box-end wrenches and wobble sockets.

Hang in there, you'll get 'er done!

epfatboy · 04-17-2018, 09:34 PM

Not sure how this worked out for the OP but I got mine out. It's the getting back in I worry about!

I think the Driver side is going to be fine but the pass side has the fuel line and brake lines in the way so that is likely to add to the challenge.

2 tricks I learned which I might need to use:
little heat and a custom bend on a yard sale box wrench to hold a flange nut
or
Tack weld a small piece of steel you can bend to the nut and use it to hold it in place

03-20-2017, 04:12 AM	#1
Cadillac Kid Registered User Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 72	Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 Hello everyone. I am cleaning up my engine and engine bay and I bought motor mounts and thought I should change them. I removed the through bolts from the mounts and then jacked up the motor. I pulled two of the three bolts out of the bracket that is attached directly to the block. I was not able to get access to the third one. Then I started realizing that there is no way to remove the mount from the bracket that is attached from the frame because you can't get a wrench to hold the head of the bolt from spinning on the bottom side. Do you have to pull the entire bracket that is attached to the frame off in order to change just the motor mounts? How do you change these motor mounts? Thank you -Gavin Attached Images

03-20-2017, 09:38 AM	#2
KrazyRay Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oroville, CA Posts: 4,827	Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 If the motor is clear from the mounts, I find it easier to pull the brackets from the frame. That way you can clean and paint them while they are out.

03-20-2017, 12:59 PM	#3
SkinnyG Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Beautiful BC, Canada, eh?! Posts: 2,265	Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 You ~can~ get the frame mount off, using a basic tool set. I did mine a week or two ago, using merely a pair of wrenches and a socket and ratchet. And a jack to raise the motor. __________________ 1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, turbo, LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate

03-20-2017, 07:51 PM	#4
kipps Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: North-central Virginia Posts: 1,104	Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 I have a K20, if it makes any difference, but I don't recall having any trouble accessing the three bolts that hold the clamshell mount to the frame bracket. It took two people though, one on top, and one below.

03-21-2017, 01:00 AM	#5
KrazyRay Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oroville, CA Posts: 4,827	Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 The 4wd frames are easier to get to the motor mounts than the 2wd because the 4wd towers are behind the crossmember leaving the bolts accessible.

03-21-2017, 09:54 AM	#6
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,597	Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 I was able to remove mine while leaving the large bracket attached to the frame. I don't remember the specific problems, but was able to get to the nuts & bolts using tools such as ratcheting box-end wrenches and wobble sockets. Hang in there, you'll get 'er done! __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

04-17-2018, 09:34 PM	#7
epfatboy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Barrington nh Posts: 112	Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10 Not sure how this worked out for the OP but I got mine out. It's the getting back in I worry about! I think the Driver side is going to be fine but the pass side has the fuel line and brake lines in the way so that is likely to add to the challenge. 2 tricks I learned which I might need to use: little heat and a custom bend on a yard sale box wrench to hold a flange nut or Tack weld a small piece of steel you can bend to the nut and use it to hold it in place

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