How are the original AM radios mounted - do I need a brace

[IT Cowboy]

I have an original GM Delco AM radio I am going to put in my truck. Do I need the mounting bracket / brace for the back or will it be ok using just the front cups and shaft bolts and nuts.

Right now the radio I am wanting to put in just has one straight metal tab on the back. I can probably take a piece of metal strap and fab one up if needed or even pipe strap?

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

I have an original GM Delco AM radio I am going to put in my truck. Do I need the mounting bracket / brace for the back or will it be ok using just the front cups and shaft bolts and nuts.

Right now the radio I am wanting to put in just has one straight metal tab on the back. I can probably take a piece of metal strap and fab one up if needed or even pipe strap?

Not a great image, but this is all there is to it. IIRC that's just an L bracket mounting the strap to the dash. I might be able to snag a shot of the thing if I can find it on the Bench of Chaos

[JohnC67]

I think mine just had a strip of hardware store metal strap when I got it.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by JohnC67

I think mine just had a strip of hardware store metal strap when I got it.

If you're old enough to remember Erector sets, you'll know what I saw the first time I looked ;-)

[IT Cowboy]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

Not a great image, but this is all there is to it. IIRC that's just an L bracket mounting the strap to the dash. I might be able to snag a shot of the thing if I can find it on the Bench of Chaos

That helps thank you. Right now my radio just has the single tab bracket like by the green wire in your pic. I can fab up an L bracket from scrap and then swear a lot when trying to bolt it it. I though i have seen a pre-installed top bracket mount in some trucks.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

That helps thank you. Right now my radio just has the single tab bracket like by the green wire in your pic. I can fab up an L bracket from scrap and then swear a lot when trying to bolt it it. I though i have seen a pre-installed top bracket mount in some trucks.

If you can tack weld a nut on the front of the L-bracked, you could secure the bracket to dash first and then bolt the radio in with one hand
Maybe pull a duct or two first

[IT Cowboy]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

If you can tack weld a nut on the front of the L-bracked, you could secure the bracket to dash first and then bolt the radio in with one hand
Maybe pull a duct or two first

I have some of those slide on nut clips that should slide right on and tighten down. I also have some gorilla tape (kidding - gorilla tape is only for visible areas)

['68OrangeSunshine]

They call it ''Plumbers Tape'' but it's not like sticky tapes. It's steel strap with perforations about every half inch. Available at any hardware store. Comes in roll form.
That's what I've used when the OEM rear radio mounting bracket gets lost.
And YES, you will need it, especially if you run your truck in rough places. The original AM/FM [or AM] Delco radios were really tail- heavy. Some more modern tuners and cassette radios were lighter, more solid state, but reinforcement in the back of the unit is a good idea in any case.

[CG]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

They call it ''Plumbers Tape'' but it's not like sticky tapes. It's steel strap with perforations about every half inch. Available at any hardware store. Comes in roll form.
That's what I've used when the OEM rear radio mounting bracket gets lost.
And YES, you will need it, especially if you run your truck in rough places. The original AM/FM [or AM] Delco radios were really tail- heavy. Some more modern tuners and cassette radios were lighter, more solid state, but reinforcement in the back of the unit is a good idea in any case.

Thats a good idea. Its such a weird name for something that isnt like any tape a person would normally think of.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by CG

Thats a good idea. Its such a weird name for something that isnt like any tape a person would normally think of.

Don't we live in a weird but fascinating world?

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by CG

Thats a good idea. Its such a weird name for something that isnt like any tape a person would normally think of.

Prolly just because you unroll it off a spool, but plumbers do have their own language, as do mechanics

[IT Cowboy]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

Prolly just because you unroll it off a spool, but plumbers do have their own language, as do mechanics

I just always called it pipe strap. Flex Seal is plumbers tape -

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

I just always called it pipe strap. Flex Seal is plumbers tape -

Just remember, plumber's crack isn't a cocaine derivative

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

Just remember, plumber's crack isn't a cocaine derivative

Either way, ain't no snortin' of it goin' on, around here.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Heres an image of the plumbers tape three brackets total counting speaker/radio bracket, plus the plumbers tape thing, plus nuts and cups on dashboard

[IT Cowboy]

Do I ground it to the firewall using the small bolt above the power or does the mounting bracket point(s) ground it?

[MikeB]

This what my 69 has to support the OE radio/speaker. I bolt a strap to it, which supports an aftermarket radio.

[cbeerman]

Here are some pics from my 68

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

Do I ground it to the firewall using the small bolt above the power or does the mounting bracket point(s) ground it?

The radio contacts all kinds of metal. For my 71; seems it would be the same for these AMs, can't say for sure.

The radio/speaker wire harness is one green power wire, and one black ground wire. The wires were soldered onto the original speaker’s terminals, located on its RH side. The harness’ connector plugs into the radio’s back LH side. The harness routes nicely above the speaker bracket to the radio; where a braided wire loom was added for this rebuild.

• The original speaker is 10 OHMS. The dimensions are 4.7/8 x 10.5/8”; often referenced as 4” x 10”. A different 10 OHM speaker was installed for this rebuild, and the positive terminal is marked.

The radio’s red power wire plugs into the radio/speaker wire harness connector that is plugged into the radio. The wire’s connector at the radio has a slotted housing. The wire routes using two fixed retainer clips, located above the instrument panel, and plugs into the kickdown switch harness’ pink jumper wire, which plugs into the fuse panel’s “RADIO” terminal.

It's mounted like this:

The speaker bracket fits onto the magnet’s block located underneath the speaker. Correct positioning is the bracket’s tab faces up and forward; reference images for orientation.

The small radio bracket installs onto the radio’s back with two 1/4” hex flange screws. The screw threads are #8 x 3/8”, and the heads are stamped with a circle.

• Install a U-nut onto the small radio bracket. Note all three U-nuts for radio and speaker assembly are 9/16” (W) x 7/8" (T), and have a 1/2” center hole to edge. The U-nuts take 3/8” hex flange tap screws with 1/4 x 3/4" threads, and the heads are stamped “P”.

The radio strap’s short end attaches to the radio/speaker bracket’s RH side, with a U-nut slipped onto the bracket. The screw inserts from the RH side. Tighten this screw after the balance of the radio is secured.

The radio/speaker bracket mounts to the firewall behind the center A/C vent with two 3/8" hex flange self-drilling screws. The screw threads are 1/4 x 5/8", and the heads are stamped “S”. A clear caulking was applied around the screw holes, between the firewall and bracket.

• The radio/speaker bracket takes a U-nut slipped onto its bottom. Insert the speaker bracket’s tab into the radio/speaker bracket’s slot, and secure the speaker as far forward as possible to clear the center A/C vent housing. The screw inserts from the bottom.

• Swing the radio strap downward and position the radio into the dash panel.

• The radio’s front is supported by two cup spacers inserted through the dash panel’s front, for volume and tuner. The cup’s largest hole faces up. The radio secures to the panel with two special 5/8” hex nuts.

• Ensure the radio is flush to the dash panel and tight. The radio strap’s bottom secures the small radio bracket with a screw inserted from the RH side.

• The chrome radio control knobs install onto dash panel’s front. The textured knob is for volume, and the smooth “dummy knob” is for the tuner.

• The plastic radio control knobs install on top of the chrome radio chrome knobs, with a spring washer seated between them. Reference part # INL12119 for what appear to be adequate spring washers.

Reference assembly manual page 435.

[IT Cowboy]

I am going to put my radio in and then use the dial light wire to trigger the REM on of a 4 channel bluetooth amp. I have the Highliner 4 speaker headliner for speakers and can then stream music from my phone and turn the system on with the radio. Oh, I also put and LED bulb into the radio dial light.