Rusty Cab Mounts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bluec10 · 10-27-2004, 11:21 PM

My next step is replacing my cab mounts. All four are pretty rusty, but so far the undercab rust is limited to the mounts. What's the best way to repair them? I'm assuming that the old ones need to be cut out and new ones welded in. Other options? Anything I should know?

68LSS1 · 10-28-2004, 04:00 AM

Are you talking about the angled sheetmetal pieces on the cab or the brackets on the frame? If your talking about the brackets on the frame just weld some reinforcement like Zoomy said above. If it's actually the cab structure than those will need replaced. They do make ones that slip over the existing mounts but personally I wouldn't go that route. I'd go ahead and get the replacements and remove the old one (they are spot welded in) and weld in the new. It can be done with the cab on the truck.

*Gee_Emm* · 10-28-2004, 09:13 AM

The fronts will be easier then the rears, to do the front ones you have to drill out the spot welds which isnt as easy as it sounds. For the rear you have to cut and weld in new metal.

bluec10 · 10-28-2004, 10:15 PM

Sorry if I was unclear. I'm talking about the metal supports under the cab. They are rusty, which has allowed the cab to sink down about an inch. I guess there's a special bit for drilling out spot welds?

*Gee_Emm* · 10-28-2004, 10:18 PM

There is a special bit but you can get away with a regular one, I drilled out hundreds that way, I would have bought one but I never came across a place that sold them.

bluec10 · 11-01-2004, 11:23 AM

I just checked the Eastwood site - they have a couple of options. I guess I'm just worried about going through too much sheet metal, but that could happen with any kind of bit.

*Gee_Emm* · 11-01-2004, 02:27 PM

You usually end up having to drill half way through the second sheet anyways. Its nothing a welder can't fix. Sometimes the spot welds are not shaped round and you have to pry the metal apart, thats where the whole process gets frustrating.

10-27-2004, 11:21 PM	#1
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Rusty Cab Mounts My next step is replacing my cab mounts. All four are pretty rusty, but so far the undercab rust is limited to the mounts. What's the best way to repair them? I'm assuming that the old ones need to be cut out and new ones welded in. Other options? Anything I should know? __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

10-28-2004, 04:00 AM	#2
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	Are you talking about the angled sheetmetal pieces on the cab or the brackets on the frame? If your talking about the brackets on the frame just weld some reinforcement like Zoomy said above. If it's actually the cab structure than those will need replaced. They do make ones that slip over the existing mounts but personally I wouldn't go that route. I'd go ahead and get the replacements and remove the old one (they are spot welded in) and weld in the new. It can be done with the cab on the truck. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-28-2004, 10:15 PM	#4
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Sorry if I was unclear. I'm talking about the metal supports under the cab. They are rusty, which has allowed the cab to sink down about an inch. I guess there's a special bit for drilling out spot welds? __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

11-01-2004, 11:23 AM	#6
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	I just checked the Eastwood site - they have a couple of options. I guess I'm just worried about going through too much sheet metal, but that could happen with any kind of bit. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

10-28-2004, 09:13 AM	#3
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	The fronts will be easier then the rears, to do the front ones you have to drill out the spot welds which isnt as easy as it sounds. For the rear you have to cut and weld in new metal.

10-28-2004, 10:18 PM	#5
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	There is a special bit but you can get away with a regular one, I drilled out hundreds that way, I would have bought one but I never came across a place that sold them.

11-01-2004, 02:27 PM	#7
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	You usually end up having to drill half way through the second sheet anyways. Its nothing a welder can't fix. Sometimes the spot welds are not shaped round and you have to pry the metal apart, thats where the whole process gets frustrating.



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