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10-24-2004, 08:29 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2
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2000 Blazer 4D power window question...
I have a dead driver side power window motor. It looks like this:
http://www.geocities.com/mschulte59/elecmotor.jpg I need to know how to remove the motor from the door. From the pic you can see the three mounting holes. The current stock installation has 3 deep rivets attaching it to the door plate. Do I simply drill out the 3 rivets? (assuming that's how and where you remove it) Anything else I should be warned about? Thanks! |
10-26-2004, 11:55 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 115
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make sure it is dead my buddy thought his was but when we jumped 12v to the connector it worked fine and ended up being the switch so I can't help with the R&R of the motor but the switch is real easy..
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1973/1997 Blazer/Tahoe (it just doesn't know that it is a '73) |
10-28-2004, 10:33 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 7
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unplug the wire and jump the motor to see if it is the motor with a 12v drill battery etc. and a couple of wires . if it dont move tape the window from inside over top of door to outside. drill the rivets and remove the tape keeps it from falling when drilling out . lower the glass and assembly down and unbolt the glass from the regulator. the motor probably comes with a new regulator from gm. or a used one. to put it back in slide the glass all the way up and rivet the new regulator in and connect power. roll the regulator to where you find access holes for bolts. slide the glass down the track till it lines up with the regulator and bolt the glass and youre done
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11-02-2004, 11:00 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2
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Thanks guys. I jumped the motor with an 18v drill battery - NUTTIN'! When I got it out, it worked - It must have had a dead spot - probably the vibration from the drill and tapping of the chisel to shear off the rivet heads.
I was hoping to remove the the motor without removing the regulator, cuz the Siemans motor from AutoZone didn't come with one. I drilled out the three motor rivets, but could not get out the left-most rivet cuz it was against the reg. I had to grind off a bit more than a sixteenth inch of the bolt heads to make them flat enough to fit between the reg "gear" and the motor mount-plate. TO deal with the rivet post that I could not get out, I used a home-made press to force in two finishing nails. It is incredibly tight and is effectively "riveted" in. It works great, but GM should have used a heavier gauge steel on the inside panel that the motor and reg are riveted to. When the window gets to the top, the panel distorts more than you would think when the window reaches the top. The motor, mounting plate and reg are solid - too bad they didn't use that gauge steel in the panel. It would have added a dollar to the price and 4# to the weight of the truck. Thanks again! |
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